Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About turboguzzi

  • Birthday 01/17/1962

Profile Information

  • Location
    Milan, Italy
  • Occupation
  • Vehicles
    leg ii

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

turboguzzi's Achievements

USMB is life!

USMB is life! (4/11)



  1. here in italy they were called "GL" spec, mine was exactly same level of spec, electric windows, all other buttons seem to there, just one empty switch space. my old one was a 92, this one is a 93, both have the high roof bulge, makes for a very airy feeling inside, specially for someone who's 6'4" like me, wish it had cruise control but never seen it in really old Legs round here.
  2. Yes, im in milan, and car is just 40 miles from home.... only 2500$ .... must resist, must resist....
  3. After two Legs, a 92 and a 95, i moved on to a Forester 4 years ago, bought also one for my GF... But every now and then i check to see if a nice old Leg is around and gosh, shouldnt have open the site! this came up for sale, one owner, 80K miles.... on top,it's exactly same color as my first Leg, 18 years ago.... even the price is good.... I know it's dorky but how to resist?
  4. Indeed, it's not an assembly, but can get all the dry tubes looks like i was simply looking in the wrong area.... found http://opposedforces.com/parts/forester/en_s11/type_1/intake_and_supply_system_turbocharger/intake_manifold/illustration_5/ 18 years old is rather new in my book , certainly compared to my 1989 Vitara....
  5. Hei folks, While doing some periodic maintenance and servicing, noted that the two rubber tubes coming up form th ePCV assembly are totally stiff and dry, would like to replace them red dots in pic well.... went to opposedforces but just can find the part number for it! closest i got was in the PCV diagram, but it has numbers for the two smaller pipes, not the assembly in the middle that i need! any idea where to find the pat number? Car is a european X2.0 2004 forester with EJ20 tnxs!
  6. yes, i know OEM is Denso, thats why it sucks that mine failed in two years. no coolant in exhaust, car is not consuming any... need a new one anyway, ngk seems more affordable, might give it a try
  7. Well, after replacing my upstream Lambda sensor with an OEM quality Denso DOX-0307, just two years/20K miles ago, It is kaput again. It’s been in a 2005 2.0 euro forester before jumping to buy another Denso, was wondering if there are better alternatives? A cross reference check gives it as a replacement for 22641AA140,22641AA230,22641AA280, So far the only one I found is this https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Print-Lambda-Sensor-ADS77008/dp/B00B8YMD34 if anyone has a better idea, I'd love to hear. Thanks in advance TG
  8. i dont have a plan or room to own multiple cars, my 110K miles 2nd gen forester would have to go. to be my daily driver it would have to have LPG and tow hook, like mine does tempted to offer the guy to install them, give him my car and see how much id need to add... my car's value is about 3K euro
  9. My trusted mechanic in lake Como (which luckily i dont need to use often) has this mint condition 20K forester for sale.... mmm... very tempted... https://www.autoscout24.com/offers/subaru-forester-2-0-16v-cat-4wd-wz-solo-30-000km-gasoline-silver-7bd72ad1-5ac5-4406-9aa7-cb320c56a975?cldtidx=4&cldtsrc=listPage essentially led most of it's life closed in a garage, scroll through pics
  10. yep, more or less what i tried, but with shops closed, didnt want to risk deforming the threads on the bolt and then wait for a new part if SHTF @Ido All sage advice, some relevant for workshops/serial fixers... i am more in the "two subaru hosehold" range, not much room to hoard, so this type of event is a once in 5 years kind of thing... BTW, Ido is a very Israeli sounding name... Subarus were extremely popular there in the 80s-90's... any connection?
  11. well, it worked out ok, CVs are back in, car back on road, i used the complete hub to push the CV and make the C-spring snap into place the ball joint does get in the way of the hub as the rubber bushings of the arm push it up. found a simple workaround by tying the arm down with an adjustable strap to one of the jack stands. With CV in place, i simply released the strap and the CV pop back in after reading here, tried also to drive the bottom joint bolt out of the arm.... like no way, not for me, at least not without the proper puller.
  12. well, the clutch is changed and tranny is back in already... there are a few reasons i pulled the tranny from the bottom in my two foresters: 1. dont have a hoist, but it was easy to build a simple adapter to my floor jack to support the tranny 2. both my cars are LPG, so taking the engine out means disconnecting also the LPG related gas tubing and connectors to the LPG CPU 3. seen this well detailed how to and it seemed easy, indeed, in my 1st gen forester with the old style Cv i did it all in 12 hours. https://www.rs25.com/threads/diy-clutch-replacement-pictorial.128163/ 4. thats also what my trusted subaru mechanic recommended, thats how he does it in his workshop looks like engine vs tranny out is quite a topic of discussion,
  13. neat, bit to use it you need to pop out the ball joint from the suspension arm.... is that easier? for the procedure recommended by the manual, doesn't really help...
  14. well, it went better on the other side, it pop'd out... it worked best by using a pray bar between arm and housing. only then realized that the top area is kind of barrel shaped so the cocking on the way out is no issue, was just afraid of making things worse with stronger blows. should have searched a picture of the ball joint before.... on the "bad side", with the arm loose, managed to wiggle it out too, it was really quite rusted, took quite few blows from front an back to come out. odd because my area is not bad with rust... the underbody of my 15 yr old car is perfect otherwise, all bolts are totally rust free, the only ones to have rust where the two holding the ball joint in the housing. looks like water enters through the slot in the metal and just stays there. rust never sleeps...
  • Create New...