beezer

Well if the car is saying there is a problem with the IAC that would be a good place to start. I've had a problem where it will screw up 2 cylinders when the my IAC acts up. Cleaning it will not help if you are getting a code . What do you mean by which IAC valve? Like nipper said another good spot to look is the crank and cam sensors. Nobody here can see your car, hear your car, or tinker with it. Be patient there are a lot of smart people on this board and will get you pointed in the right direction. BTW, most people show a little more appreciation for the advice given on this forum. Good Luck Beezer

I know there was a thread once where the a whistle was caused by a bad gasket between the air control valve and the throttle body. Maybe something to look at. Good Luck Beezer

Sorry to hear that, that really sucks! As far as MAF sensors go, I'm pretty sure the fords used a "film" type MAF sensor. While Subes use a wire type MAF. This may explain why cleaning the Ford ones may help, but, it is pretty much useless on the Subes. I also think the MAF cleans itself by heating the element up to around 1000 deg. when you shut the car off. Please correct me if I'm wrong. Beezer

I'm just throwing this out there. I thought my crank pulley was wobbling as well, it just happened to be the way the dirt and crap that was on it had accumulated giving it the appearance that it was wobbling. If this makes any sense. Maybe something to consider. As far as your question goes, I'll let one of the smarter guys field that. Beezer

Think there should be 2 relays there, the main and the fuel pump. The top roundish one should be the fuel pump relay. Beezer

Your car should idle around 700-800 rpm's I imagine. To replace the seals you would hafe to do the while timing belt again, the cam and crank sprockets hafe to come off to get at them. If they are leaking badly you will see oil seeping through the timing belt cover The "gurgle" noise, I really have no idea. I'll take a guess and say something to do with the coolant. Never done a clutch before so someone else will hafe to take this. Beezer

No I haven't replaced the IAC yet, due to a little shortage on funds right now. The car does run well 90% of the time though. I can live with it for now, it doesn't drive me nuts as much now that I now what the problem is. Your car probably has a MAP sensor on it. I'm sure it would be throwing a code if it was bad or was not functioning within it's parameters. If it is under warranty, then yeah, take her in and let them figure it out and get back to us. Beezer

I don't think fuel pressure reg. are a very common problem with subes. It is a possibility, but, this would probably be a pretty consistent problem. If you have a fuel pressure gauge and a vacuum pump you could test the fuel pressure reg.. A leaking injector could be the problem, but I 'm guessing all four of the spark plugs are soaked in gas, so the chances that all four injectors are leaking is pretty slim. Start with the coolant temp. sensor, and if that isn't the problem then move on to the fuel system etc. Good Luck Beezer

I would say to start at the coolant temp. sensor again. I would think if it is the MAF you would have driveability problems, not just start up problems. I'm not positive on how much the MAF affects starting. I have started my car with the MAF disconnected, and it will start, but will stall within 5 seconds or so.The IAC could cause such problems too, you would probably get a CEL if this was bad however. I would say maybe spend the $30 or so and try the coolant temp. sensor again. Should ask, do you have a CEL on? If you do, start there, you can go to Legacy777 website to find info on how to retieve the codes. Good Luck Beezer

The most accurate way would be to have a EGT gauge so that you can monitor it. Giving it a minute or two will probably work too, and you'll probably be fine. If you are very concerned however, then install a gauge. It is just a guessing game without having a one. Just my opinion. Beezer

Jenn, The fuel pump relay should be hidden behind the fuse box. You will hafe to unscrew the fuse box, it should be back there somewhere. Beezer

If you need to, look at Legacy777 pictures at https://www.mail.experiencetherave.c...s/DCP2488.JPG the little black thing should be in one of the pictures. Oh crap that link isn't working for me...........sorry. I know Legacy777 does have some pictures though, it is of his injector work. Hope it works out for you. Beezer

Chef Crap! Just spent 15 minutes typing to get kicked out! So here is the condensed version. I would switch to 10w30, if you are worried go with a synthetic. I live about an hour from you, and yeah we have had a pretty mild winter so far. I'm sure living in Toronto highway driving is probably pretty normal. The owners manual does seem pretty specific that 5w30 should not be used for extended highway driving. I have been using 10w30 for the last 2 winters with no ill effects that I know of. The 1st version was much better, sorry got to go. Beezer

I probably wouldn't use it unless you typically hafe sub-freezing temps. The owners manual doesn't recommend it if you are doing extended highway driving either. Beezer

Like already mentioned I would check the tires first, ie. tire pressure, balance alignment. My other thought is wheel bearings. My car needs new bearings and tie rod ends and I will get intermittent vibration in the wheel at highway speeds. Axles can also transmit some vibration into the steering wheel as well. I would jack the front of the car up and the grab the tire at 12:00 and 6:00 and try and wiggle it in and out. There shouldn't be any movement, if there is, replace the bearings. I would look at the tie rod ends and balljoints too. For the axles take a look to see if the boots are torn or are showing sign of leaking grease. Getting a trans. flush and all the ordinary tune up stuff is always a good idea. Good luck Beezer