ricepapertiger

Sounds good. I'll check retroroo out. I had no idea that existed

Ya what's up with that, my 09 WRX oil pump is $131 off subarugenuineparts, cheaper than the damn GL's Oh, on a side note, it's raining a good amount outside, I had the joy of hearing absolutely no TOD for almost the whole trip other than a cold startup... just my cats rattling inside. It's not my heatshields either, those are all gone. It was a real treat.

So dealership for the "o rings" and where can I cheap out on the oil pump seals?

We are talking about the smaller ones that go in between the Cam Tower and the Heads, correct? The one in MilesFox's Cam Tower vid at 6:46

I had installed a new mickey mouse gasket last week, didn't really solve much. The little ring was a little bit deformed, but not much. Now that I think back, I had the engine out to reseal everything.... Then I was in a hurry to slap everything back together, and didn't bother to read the manual or watch MilesFox's videos... *ahem* forgot to put in the o-rings between the tower and head *ahem*. BUT in my defense, I didn't recall ever seeing o-rings in those spots prior. Maybe I'm just that unobservant. Anyway lemme get those back in... I need to get the WRX back in streetable mode before I do any engine work to the GL.

Rockauto has this Bosch sensor for like $14.50 which is great, as opposed to the one listed under the Subaru catalog, which is minimum $80 : Is that Bosch part to be used in the same spot as this Airtex/wells one?

So I was perusing the intraweb looking for a new OEM oil pump for my EA82. I had been reading all the other threads, I know that others on this board have gotten good deals from Thepartsbin.com and even their stealerships for under 90 bucks for the oil pump. Any online parts search nets me very high prices for this part (I need to cure my TOD!) Thepartsbin has it for 170, and Subarugenuineparts has it for 131.72 (w/o gauge, but I have a gauge...) and 146.36 for the one w/gauge I assume. I was just seeing if anyone had a better current source for more affordable options for the pump. Thanks!

Reminds me of last week when I was reseating my oil pump gasket. I was taking off the passenger side fan, and I literally struggled with the connector for 5 minutes. I took a screwdriver to it trying to push the tab and pull, then some pliers to pinch and pull... then I took a smoke break, looked at it, and simply took my fingernail, lifted out the tab, and disconnected the connectors. :| Thanks Subaru

I will try that today Yeah apparently! I counted as accurately as I could with my crappy eyes, before I test fit. I counted 36 teeth. Slipped it on, tightened down the nut, viola! Nice and snug. Then I took it for a drive, and realized I had it misaligned. I had to use a puller on it again, inspected the splines, no damage or anything. It's a much more comfortable wheel to drive with

Put this OEM 2.5RS steering wheel in my '88 GL today! I was reading around, I thought I had read that these won't fit on because of different splines, Anyhow, 36 teeth met up with another 36 teeth it slipped on with no issues. Regrounded the wire off the old wheel, and horn works like a champ. The only problem I'm having is the lack of self-canceling signals... Might have hooked up the covers wrong, unless the original wheel has something that self cancels?

Mine has been doing this. It used to start up just fine, and a few days before I pulled the motor to reseal it, it had a suuuuper bad startup and idle. Got the motor back in, and I have been trying to remedy a very similar issue. If I'm in Park or Neutral, idle is a little more stable than yours around 1000rpm. In Drive or Reverse, it will drop the revs down to around 600 and be on the verge of stalling. I cleaned out the IAC valve, helped a teensy bit. As for the Coolant Temp Sensor, I'm gonna try that and see if it helps.

I just pulled my motor to do a budget rebuild, started out getting some camshaft seals and the crank seal from Rockauto. Once the motor was out, I drained the oil and found nice milky oil, so I knew a head gasket was needed. Since the motor was out, I was just going to order a whole new seal kit. Ended up getting this from Rockauto: FEL-PRO Part # HS9392PT2 PermaDry®; HEAD SETS (HS) are used for upper engine repair only, typically on a valve grind. PermaDry® molded rubber valve cover gskts. incl.; Premium valve stem seals incl. It's $101.79 plus shipping. It comes with a bunch of stuff: head gaskets, exhaust gaskets, valve stem seals, various o-rings, oil pump seal, etc. It's at the other garage so I don't know exactly. The first parts I used out of there were valve stem seals after I had my heads resurfaced. The Fel-Pro kit came with camshaft seals, so I have extras now... do not believe it has the crank seal though... could be wrong. I also ended up ordering three new lifters (~$13 a piece), since a few were squishy when I pulled them out, and I was getting clacking from the motor before I pulled it. Also, GATES "20338" By-Pass Hose $ 3.23-, mine was a little crumbly, new radiator hoses (pretty cheap), motor mounts ($36 for two DEA ones), NGK 7084 Spark Plug $ 2.30(a piece), and a Wix fuel filter for around 11 bucks. I'm going over to the garage to finish up my motor assembly tomorrow. I'll see if I forgot to add anything. Use Rockauto for all your needs, I have never had anything take more than 4 days to arrive. Prices are sweet too, along with the 5% discount. "1284260310449590" in the "how did you hear about us" box. The code might change by the time you order some parts, but you can almost always find the new one posted online somewhere. Oh, and if you're going to do the oil pan gasket... I guess do some research. I had installed the cork one on mine a few months ago, but ended up destroying it with minimal torque and having even worse oil leak... Permadry Ultra Grey seems to work for other members though. Hopefully your motor wasn't in as bad shape as mine even with 118k, it had been sitting for awhile, and some rust got to one of the pistons. Regardless, it's going back in once I get the cam towers and up back on.

Hey everyone at USMB, new to the forums. My name is Dean, living in Norfolk, VA. I am usually on NASIOC with the same name, but have perused this forum since I bought my GL last November. I own three Subarus, an '88 GL, '05 LGT, and an '09 WRX (my first Subie, bought in June 09), and several of my close friends have Subarus as well. I also ride motorcycles, and have five of those ('06 KTM SX85, '03 Yamaha Road Star Warrior, '81 Yamaha XS400SH, '09 Honda CBR 600RR, and '95 GSX-R 600) I've been learning more into the workings of Subies recently, and it's a great feeling when we get things done the right way. I just pulled my GL's EA82 out the other day. I was so happy it was so light, my friends were all busy so I had to pull it out by myself and just used some thick nylon straps It had a nice oil leak before, hence my pulling of the motor. I let out the fresh oil I had put in it before, and it was nice and milky. Head gasket change time. Here's MY cars. I wetsanded down most of the black on the trunk... the whole car needs to be repainted. And my WIFE's car. Mods: Prosport Boost gauge, Whiteline 20mm RSB, Cobb pulley waiting to be installed My buddy's 2.5RS which had a timing idler pulley explode apparently in the process of the car being turned off, and skipped timing.... but it's alllll good and back on the road. Anyway, I'll see you all around the forums!