Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


gbhrps last won the day on October 6

gbhrps had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

79 Excellent

About gbhrps

  • Rank
    20 Year Subie Fan
  • Birthday 05/30/1949

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests
    antique cars, wrenching on cars
  • Occupation
  • Ezboard Name
  • Referral
    Subaru OutBack Forums
  • Biography
    retired teacher, part time antique car restorer
  • Vehicles
    2012 OBW LTD, 2016 Nissan 370z Roadster
  1. resaw, Free download from this link: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru
  2. turbofiat124, The first generation Tribeca turned most consumers off when they saw the front of the car. When it was redesigned later to be more generic, the damage had already been done, so not many of them were purchased. Those that were are like all of the other subie models, mainly found in areas where ice, snow, elevation, and the back woods put them right at home.
  3. yaddayadda, That I can't tell you, because its been too many years ago that I owned that generation of subie to remember. I know that my 2017 subie has a gasket under the edge of the glass, and I suspect that it is bonded to the glass, and the gasket is urethaned to the body of the car. Having worked in an auto restoration shop for years (still do part time, when it suits my mood and schedule) and having done more than a few windshield replacements, some windshields have the gasket bonded to the glass already when purchased. Some use no gasket at all, and a few need just the gasket to install them (usually antique cars). Most use a black urethane sealant nowadays whether they come with a gasket or not. Your best bet is to ask at an auto glass shop as to how subie windshields come when they order them. If you're certain that the rust has not gotten under the gasket, then the usual sanding/grinding the area to remove the rust back to bare metal, degreasing, priming and painting should be all that is required to put the situation right. Be very careful around the edges of the glass. The slightest nick with a tool could cause a crack or the entire windshield to check into a million small pieces. Good Luck!
  4. Stevo F, The subie piston slap issue occurs as you describe in these older engines. My 97 OBW LTD had the issue as well and I just lived with it. Years of forum posts and research shows, that while annoying, piston slap will not affect the engine's longevity in any way. My 97 had it, but not my 2002, my 2007, my 2012 or my present 2017. Some humourously suggest to just turn up the radio.
  5. yaddayadda, I believe you'll find that to correct your rust problem, that the glass will have to be removed from the car, and the gasket removed as well. Unless you can verify that the rust has not penetrated below the gasket, any repair you do will eventually be wasted, as this is an area of the car constantly invaded by water. As far as replacing the seal properly, this can only be done at the windshield install. You could fill the gasket groove area with black silicone or automotive Goop, but the visual results may be far from satisfactory, not to mention again that the rust may be growing underneath. Its really unfortunate that the rust was not addressed at the time of the windshield replacement.
  6. unenthuzed ,It would appear that the sheep approves as well.
  7. Stevo F, Do a Google search for "painting car trim/plastics" etc. There are all kinds of spray paints that are sold by major paint companies that show you the products to buy, and the steps required to get good adheasion (Color Bond, Duplicolor, Eastwood).
  8. greg, When the locks get to that stage, the only solution is to pull the inner door panel and track down the issue. Either the lock tumbler needs replacing, the clip for the rod tumbler to the lock has broken, that same rod is bent, or the lock mechanism has corroded and needs replacing. A trip to a wrecking yard will get replacements. Gene
  9. sirtokesalot, On that age of car I would suspect that there may be a broken wire in the rubber gaiter that the wiring harness for the tailgate goes through at the tailgate hinge area. Pop the gaiter off the body and the tailgate, gather it all to one end of the wires or other, and inspect the individual wires carefully. You may find the culprit. If not there, you might take the light assembly entirely out of the ceiling headliner, take it apart and check that the switch isn't corroded or carboned up in the "door open" position. A cleaning with fine emery paper might do the trick. Not sure what else to suggest if these ideas don't work out?
  10. Gentlemen, Those protection strips obviously (from the parts diagram) fasten into the steel roof, held in place in two places with nuts and in two other places with push in plugs that snap into place, but many times break off when removed. To get at the nuts means removing the headliner from the car ... meaning two hours work to remove and then replace for a first time DIYer. I've been there done that to get at a sunroof for repairs on a 2002 OBW. The sun visors, mirror, overhead lights, A, B, C, and D pillar moldings, as well as the overhead assist handles (B Pillar seat belt loops as well), all door opening weather stripping covering the headliner has to be pulled half way down, and then the headliner can be removed out the rear of the car. Go the removal route and you're looking at hours just to remove and replace, and then possibly parts to reattach them (the plugs if they break, the special bolts attached to the rub strips if they're corroded and don't come off , meaning cutting them free. Go the mask, sand, and paint while they're on the car and you have hours of masking, prep work in an impossible position (on a ladder of some type, reaching over the roof rails, trying not to mark the roof paint ...? Unless there is a real sentimental reason attached to this 18 year old car, why would anyone do this job at all? I don't envy your position, but total removal will give you the best job. Good Luck!
  11. Bigsky, Its an expensive fix if you pay a shop to do the job and buy new parts, but pull one from a wrecking yard and get your backyard mechanic friend to install it would be the way I'd go. Jury rigging what solution you have suggested is going to cause head aches down the road. The air bag removal and steering wheel removal are not that challenging, just BE SURE to disconnect the car's battery and then wait 30 minutes before you start the work!!!!!! Car airbag systems use capacitors to store enough electricity to fire the bags if the battery cable is cut during an accident. The charge dissipates in 20 minutes or so rendering the air bags safe to handle, so they won't explode in your face. Don't mess with an air bag if you don't follow this step. They can kill you at close range. Here's a free download of the service manual for that year: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Impreza/1996-2001 Service Manual/
  12. NV Zeno, Just peal them off the roof and remove the glue. Purchase a roll of an appropriately shaped and coloured rubber protection strips that are contact glued to the doors of cars for parking lot door dent protection. There are lots of different shapes and colours to choose from, and they're peal and stick. Couldn't be easier, and a lot less expensive than trying to paint what's there and deterioprated. And when you add up labour costs, you're way ahead of the game.
  13. 1stSubie95FwdLegacyWagon First generation subie OB's had the piston slap exactly as you describe, loud at startup, but disappearing almost entirely after warm up. The general train of thought is that it will not hurt the engine or its longevity. My 97 OBW had it starting at about 20 000 kms and five years later when I traded it for another subie it was still going strong with no adverse effects.
  14. Chrissg12222, One day later the info I missed the first time I saw the post is there? DUH, on my behalf! Here's the98 FSM, but you'll need to do some searching through it to find the fuel pump section. Its not readily visible from the pdf titles listed. http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Legacy_Outback/1998/
  15. Chrisg12222, Always!!!!!!!!!! tell us the year, model and mileage for any post asking for advice or help. It changes the possible answers anyone might give you. Until then, we really can't help. I can give you a factory service manual (FREE) if I knew what your car's specifics were!