Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

gbhrps

Members
  • Content count

    1123
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

gbhrps last won the day on November 6 2013

gbhrps had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

76 Excellent

About gbhrps

  • Rank
    20 Year Subie Fan
  • Birthday 05/30/1949

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Canada
  • Interests
    antique cars, wrenching on cars
  • Occupation
    retired
  • Ezboard Name
    gbhrps
  • Referral
    Subaru OutBack Forums
  • Biography
    retired teacher, part time antique car restorer
  • Vehicles
    2012 OBW LTD, 2016 Nissan 370z Roadster
  1. Gentlemen, Those protection strips obviously (from the parts diagram) fasten into the steel roof, held in place in two places with nuts and in two other places with push in plugs that snap into place, but many times break off when removed. To get at the nuts means removing the headliner from the car ... meaning two hours work to remove and then replace for a first time DIYer. I've been there done that to get at a sunroof for repairs on a 2002 OBW. The sun visors, mirror, overhead lights, A, B, C, and D pillar moldings, as well as the overhead assist handles (B Pillar seat belt loops as well), all door opening weather stripping covering the headliner has to be pulled half way down, and then the headliner can be removed out the rear of the car. Go the removal route and you're looking at hours just to remove and replace, and then possibly parts to reattach them (the plugs if they break, the special bolts attached to the rub strips if they're corroded and don't come off , meaning cutting them free. Go the mask, sand, and paint while they're on the car and you have hours of masking, prep work in an impossible position (on a ladder of some type, reaching over the roof rails, trying not to mark the roof paint ...? Unless there is a real sentimental reason attached to this 18 year old car, why would anyone do this job at all? I don't envy your position, but total removal will give you the best job. Good Luck!
  2. Bigsky, Its an expensive fix if you pay a shop to do the job and buy new parts, but pull one from a wrecking yard and get your backyard mechanic friend to install it would be the way I'd go. Jury rigging what solution you have suggested is going to cause head aches down the road. The air bag removal and steering wheel removal are not that challenging, just BE SURE to disconnect the car's battery and then wait 30 minutes before you start the work!!!!!! Car airbag systems use capacitors to store enough electricity to fire the bags if the battery cable is cut during an accident. The charge dissipates in 20 minutes or so rendering the air bags safe to handle, so they won't explode in your face. Don't mess with an air bag if you don't follow this step. They can kill you at close range. Here's a free download of the service manual for that year: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Impreza/1996-2001 Service Manual/
  3. NV Zeno, Just peal them off the roof and remove the glue. Purchase a roll of an appropriately shaped and coloured rubber protection strips that are contact glued to the doors of cars for parking lot door dent protection. There are lots of different shapes and colours to choose from, and they're peal and stick. Couldn't be easier, and a lot less expensive than trying to paint what's there and deterioprated. And when you add up labour costs, you're way ahead of the game.
  4. 1stSubie95FwdLegacyWagon First generation subie OB's had the piston slap exactly as you describe, loud at startup, but disappearing almost entirely after warm up. The general train of thought is that it will not hurt the engine or its longevity. My 97 OBW had it starting at about 20 000 kms and five years later when I traded it for another subie it was still going strong with no adverse effects.
  5. Chrissg12222, One day later the info I missed the first time I saw the post is there? DUH, on my behalf! Here's the98 FSM, but you'll need to do some searching through it to find the fuel pump section. Its not readily visible from the pdf titles listed. http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Legacy_Outback/1998/
  6. Chrisg12222, Always!!!!!!!!!! tell us the year, model and mileage for any post asking for advice or help. It changes the possible answers anyone might give you. Until then, we really can't help. I can give you a factory service manual (FREE) if I knew what your car's specifics were!
  7. Ladies and gentlemen, The sad part is that some fool drove the car in this state ... for quite a while to do all of that damage. He should be banned from even owning a car.
  8. ekim, Until the last few years cable assemblies on motorcycles (brakes and clutch) and cars (throttle, cruise control, gear shifter) would stretch over time and develop slop. They all had an adjuster that really just added length the the OUTER sheath in most cases. That in turn took up the slack in the cable with a few turns. Once you get the entire regulator out of the door, it may be possible to pull that outer sheath (the black plastic) out of the yellow plastic assembly at the motor drive, and slip a small washer or two over the cable (a washer with a section cut out that the inner cable can pass through, but small enough that the outer sheath can't). By squeezing the washer/s with pliers to prevent them coming off the cable, but allowing the inner cable to smoothly pass through it. You won't know if its possible to do until you try pulling the cable out of the yellow assembly. If it does come out some, give my idea a try. If not, off to a wrecking yard for a used one. Good Luck!
  9. ekim, You may have stretched the cable, bent the bracket/s that hold the window regulator to the door, bent the window channel at the front or back of the door, or split the plastic mount plate that attaches the glass to the window regulator. Its also possible that it mat be fixable without needing new parts. You just won't know until you get the door panel apart and watch and wiggle the mechanism as it goes up and down. I would suspect that where the cable enters and exits the yellow plastic section of the regulator assembly has spring inserts that may be too compressed or broken and are allowing the slop?
  10. hankosolder2, Here's a link to a FREE download of the full factory service manual for 2007: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Forester/2007/
  11. FJ40Don, There are a great many code readers out there, but not every one of them will read every code for every vehicle made. I suggest you find someone with a better code reader (Pep Boys, O'Rielly's). The cheaper ones read only the basic codes for every manufacturer, but for some vehicles you need the maker's specific code reader.
  12. Parker, From your explanation I suspect you may have a broken wire inside the rubber gaiter at the driver's door hinge area. Pull the rubber gaiter from the door and slide it towards the car body and check each of the wires for a break. Then slide the gaiter back into place and pull the other end from the body and check that half of the wire bundle. If that doesn't show up the issue, pull the driver's inner door panel and peal back the plastic weather shield. Find the connector on the door lock actuator and unplug it. Then with the ignition turned on, check to see if you get power at the connector when you press the door lock switch. If there is power then the actuator needs replacing. If no power, check the switch to see if there is power to the switch. That will trace things to tell if the problem is before the switch, after the switch, and if the actuator is good or bad. I have taken lock actuators apart that didn't work and fixed them myself. The most common issue being dirty brushes on the tiny motor. A quick cleaning and they were back in business. Zero dollars, and just my time. Good Luck!
  13. OswaldtheBold, With that weight, and that speed ... you are good to go.
  14. Bdamit, Actually three of the plugs look terrific for whatever mileage the car is at, which I suspect is a large number (always give us the year, model and mileage when asking assistance because it changes the answers you will get). Cylinder number 2 has an oil issue for sure, and that broken insulator didn't help either. Here in Canada I don't believe the Vivio was ever imported, so not much knowledge from this part of the world. But we wish you luck with the rebuild. Keep us posted! Gene
  15. whynot, Here's the factory service manual for 1999, and its a FREE download. Download it (10 minutes) and save it and do some research through the electrical section under windows as well as the diagnostics section and see if your answers are there. Over the years I've done this so many times that I just can't involve myself as much as I used to. Your answers may well be there somewhere, but You'll have to do the work. Good Luck! http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Legacy_Outback/1999/Service%20Manual/ Gene
×