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gbhrps last won the day on October 6 2018

gbhrps had the most liked content!

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81 Excellent

About gbhrps

  • Rank
    20 Year Subie Fan
  • Birthday 05/30/1949

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  • Interests
    antique cars, wrenching on cars
  • Occupation
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  • Referral
    Subaru OutBack Forums
  • Biography
    retired teacher, part time antique car restorer
  • Vehicles
    2012 OBW LTD, 2016 Nissan 370z Roadster
  1. SDSubie, Heads up! If you check out the site I quoted you'll see that it clearly states certain 2016 and 2017 models! Do not assume that 2018 and 2019 models are included. I'd check that out with your dealership!
  2. Mallory, I wouldn't think that a 2010 could be rusted/gunked-up enough to require pulling it out. As uniberp1 has stated, your first course of action is to follow his lead. These subie engines can be difficult to remove air in the coolant unless the front of the car is elevated to allow burping. I have pulled the complete dashes out of cars in the past, and its not fun, is very time consuming, and there are too many places where one time assembly pieces can break off locking tabs, making reassembly more difficult, and in some cases, more than a little expensive to replace.
  3. Gentlemen, I purchased a used 2017 OutBack Premier in November of 2017, and now in 2019 have just updated my Navigation Map system. I purchased the car from a Subaru dealer, and no one said anything about the nav update program that Subaru provides, FREE of Charge for the first 3 years after purchase, of some Subaru models for the years 2016 and 2017. I own 4 vehicles, 3 of which have navigation systems (2011 Lexus, 2016 Nissan, 2017 Subaru) and updating the nav systems always appeared to be a $150 to $250 a year expense I was reluctant to spend. Then by chance today, a Google research discovered that Subaru has the map upgrade program I stated above, free for the first 3 yearly updates, and then a yearly purchase afterwards. If you're not aware of the program, and your car fits the years and models affected, Google "Subaru Map Updates", register for the program, download the "SubaruGen2-Toolbox-inst.exe" file and get the first of your 3 free map updates downloaded to your PC or Mac. Then transfer the file to your Mini SD card from the Navigation dash screen display of your car. Everything is explained on the Subaru Map Update site. Free is good!
  4. suprunner, Two things come to mind. Higher revs put out higher oil pressure. I see this all of the time on my Duramax. The oil pressure gauge varies greatly from idle to higher rpms, rising as the rpms rise. And change that PCV valve. My 1990 300ZX started leaking oil out of the rear main seal at about 50 000 km. Not a great deal, but enough to leave a 3 inch circle of oil on the garage floor after every drive. I changed out the PCV valves (that car had two) and no more leaks. Obviously the built up pressure in the crankcase caused the leak because of the plugged PCV valves. Once they were replaced, the crankcase could release the pressure, and the leaking stopped for the next 18 years that I owned the car. Maybe someone else will jump in with more suggestions. Good Luck!
  5. Ladies and Gentlemen, Just came from the above site, wanting to update the Nav data on my 2017 OBW. The site gives two options, a single update at $119 (no mention as to USD or CDN $), and Free with a subscription. But no mention as to the cost of the subscription? Subscription to what? Click on the 2nd option and the link asks to download a 61 MB program onto my PC. I'm not certain I want to go there without more info. Anyone tried this?
  6. bork, I've owned one of each of the different generations of OBW since 1997, trading about every 5 years, and each new generation was better than the last. Other than usual maintenance (oil changes, wiper blades, brakes, tires, a light bulb/switch or two, one wheel bearing, one door speaker, and head gaskets on the 2002 fixed under warranty) were the only issues. I'm on my 5th OBW a 2017 Premier with Eyesight and the full Tech package ... and its the BEST one yet! I just might keep this one forever. If an OBW fits his family I say go for it. Only the Lexus models my wife drives have been as reliable in the 54 years I've been driving cars.
  7. resaw, Free download from this link: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru
  8. turbofiat124, The first generation Tribeca turned most consumers off when they saw the front of the car. When it was redesigned later to be more generic, the damage had already been done, so not many of them were purchased. Those that were are like all of the other subie models, mainly found in areas where ice, snow, elevation, and the back woods put them right at home.
  9. yaddayadda, That I can't tell you, because its been too many years ago that I owned that generation of subie to remember. I know that my 2017 subie has a gasket under the edge of the glass, and I suspect that it is bonded to the glass, and the gasket is urethaned to the body of the car. Having worked in an auto restoration shop for years (still do part time, when it suits my mood and schedule) and having done more than a few windshield replacements, some windshields have the gasket bonded to the glass already when purchased. Some use no gasket at all, and a few need just the gasket to install them (usually antique cars). Most use a black urethane sealant nowadays whether they come with a gasket or not. Your best bet is to ask at an auto glass shop as to how subie windshields come when they order them. If you're certain that the rust has not gotten under the gasket, then the usual sanding/grinding the area to remove the rust back to bare metal, degreasing, priming and painting should be all that is required to put the situation right. Be very careful around the edges of the glass. The slightest nick with a tool could cause a crack or the entire windshield to check into a million small pieces. Good Luck!
  10. Stevo F, The subie piston slap issue occurs as you describe in these older engines. My 97 OBW LTD had the issue as well and I just lived with it. Years of forum posts and research shows, that while annoying, piston slap will not affect the engine's longevity in any way. My 97 had it, but not my 2002, my 2007, my 2012 or my present 2017. Some humourously suggest to just turn up the radio.
  11. yaddayadda, I believe you'll find that to correct your rust problem, that the glass will have to be removed from the car, and the gasket removed as well. Unless you can verify that the rust has not penetrated below the gasket, any repair you do will eventually be wasted, as this is an area of the car constantly invaded by water. As far as replacing the seal properly, this can only be done at the windshield install. You could fill the gasket groove area with black silicone or automotive Goop, but the visual results may be far from satisfactory, not to mention again that the rust may be growing underneath. Its really unfortunate that the rust was not addressed at the time of the windshield replacement.
  12. unenthuzed ,It would appear that the sheep approves as well.
  13. Stevo F, Do a Google search for "painting car trim/plastics" etc. There are all kinds of spray paints that are sold by major paint companies that show you the products to buy, and the steps required to get good adheasion (Color Bond, Duplicolor, Eastwood).
  14. greg, When the locks get to that stage, the only solution is to pull the inner door panel and track down the issue. Either the lock tumbler needs replacing, the clip for the rod tumbler to the lock has broken, that same rod is bent, or the lock mechanism has corroded and needs replacing. A trip to a wrecking yard will get replacements. Gene
  15. sirtokesalot, On that age of car I would suspect that there may be a broken wire in the rubber gaiter that the wiring harness for the tailgate goes through at the tailgate hinge area. Pop the gaiter off the body and the tailgate, gather it all to one end of the wires or other, and inspect the individual wires carefully. You may find the culprit. If not there, you might take the light assembly entirely out of the ceiling headliner, take it apart and check that the switch isn't corroded or carboned up in the "door open" position. A cleaning with fine emery paper might do the trick. Not sure what else to suggest if these ideas don't work out?