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Bantum

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Posts posted by Bantum

  1. Locator on 4x140 hubs is different to later ones on the 5x100 XT6 :

     

    100D1422.jpg

    Taken from here : http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/141357-rear-disc-brake-difference-2wd-vs-4wd/

     

    PICT3494.JPG

     

    Another view :

     

    5lugfacts035.jpg

    From here : http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/80065-alternative-5-lug-recipe-in-the-works/

     

     

    Also the cross bred one is different again ...

    Picture_248sm.JPG

    ( Found on google ... ) Add Note : They no longer produce this kit, but there are second hand ones to be had ... :huh:

     

    Note :  The drawing is also missing splines for drive shaft, so you will need to make sure it will work with 4WD BRAT / Brumby with spline count to match ...

     

    Ciao, Bantum ...

     

     

     




     


     

    • Like 1
  2. Ok : found & upload a few more images ...

     

    gallery_47281_309_62054.jpg
     

    This might help identify what you have / haven't got ... :P

    Note : That the turn signal & hazard flasher units ( 13 +14 ) do look similar to what you have pictured ...

     

    Sorry I don't have access to a 'hatch' manual, it would be a good idea to get one if you can find them ... :/

    P.S. - It would be good to know what year your model Subaru is too ... :)

    Cheers, Bantum ...

  3. Hmm, I've been following this & have Wondered wouldn't it be possible to locate markings for all three PCD sizes 140, 114, 110 ( making a!!ownce for the largest ) on the drawing at least, then when it comes to manufacture can do a selection of either ?

     

    As to the drawing above, my query is how does the disc fit / mount on this hub ? As doesn't show it ( even in dashed outline ) + the actual PCD size given states 99.5 mm - not sure if that is accurate ( manufactures tolerance ? )

     

    Would be good for those interested in keeping the old 4×140 alive ...

     

    Cheer's, Bantum ...

  4. Well did say if power are windows installed ... :rolleyes:

     

    They look more like Indicator relays ( which are normally found under the dash ), will come back to this ... :ph34r:

    To help identify these, take some pictures of the areas mentioned to show us what's there & take note of any wire traces ( colours etc. ) & what they connect to ( what's on the other end ) + look up a wiring diagram ( link to go here, when I find it ... ) to see what should be there ... :blink:

     

     

    Add : couldn't find what I was looking for but this is just as close :

     

    85bratwires.jpg


    Note :  The wiring diagram for the hatch will be similar to this ( as it is for all other models of the same vintage ) + there's only minor / slight variances between models ...


    Cheers, Bantum ...

  5. Subaru XT Coupe :

     

    Found someone with a creative licence who redrew this Vortex Ute :

     

    XT%20Coupe.png

     

     

    Add : Does anybody know who drew this ?

     

    And this is my take on it :

     

    XT%20Coupe%20002.jpg

     

    Drew up another view of it :

     

    XT%20Coupe%203.jpg

     

    As far as doing the 'mod' for this I think it would be relatively easy : Remove the back seats, boot & turn it into a tailgate ( Optional to make a hard cover version as shown ). Cut the roof just behind the B pillar, then slide the rear window forward until it meets the back of B pillar + cut the side windows down to fit. Knock up some inner panels for the tray, then form up some ‘tube rails’ to go round the tray edges, turning up & over with a ‘roll bar’ somewhere near the B pillar, paint it red, and lastly put a few spotties on it.

     

    Bob’s your Uncle … :)

     

    Also finished drawing up the rear end opening :

     

    XT%20Coupe%201.jpg

     

    A few notes on this : Hinge for tail gate would need to be reinforced from behind & some sort of support to stop it from dropping down too far. The bar around the edge of tray could be 2x2" square box section shaped / rolled to suit. A smaller section used as spacers / connectors to frame ( I'd leave enough room to get your fingers in gap ) Removable hard top & latches not shown for clarity ...

     

     

    If anyone one wants to build it, let me know& will do some more accurate sketches ... ;)

     

    P.S. - Mr Willy has a old shell that he's going to chop up, might get to see what it looks like ... :P

     

    Cheers, Bantum ...

    • Like 3

  6. Sounds like something's not quite right if you keep breaking them, they should last for years if installed correctly.
     

    Install note :

     

    Do note when installing the actuators, make sure they are 'free' running for the full length of actuator's throw and are not binding on bodywork or pushing past their limit, which will damage things ... ;)

    Ciao, Bantum ...

  7. ihscout54 wondered if Bantum was a member …

     

    Yep I'm one & the same ... :ph34r:

     

    I'm still working on the scanner atm, will post up the results as soon as I can get it working ... :)

     

     

    Meanwhile here are some other bits :

    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1065522

     

     

    Subaru_Brumby_Badge_preview_featured.jpg

     

    More here :

    http://www.thingiverse.com/Bantum_Works/collections/subaru-bits-

     

    P.S. - I'm only copying them in 3D - you'll still have to find a 3D printer ... ;)

     

    Ciao, Bantum ...

  8. Notice that they all seem to be bent the same way, probably has something to do with the way diff is mounted & the amount of torque that is applied through it ... ;) 

    You might be chasing your tail a bit here though as you strength one bit, may have to compensate / strengthen in other areas as the load is transferred to things like the mounting points on chassis / floor ... :blink:

    You can get 'open seam' round tube / pipe, roll / bend it to the required shape and then stitch weld it to top & bottom flanges ... :)

    OSCIR-01.jpg
    Not sure what size or how thick to get it though ... :(

    Try here : http://catalog.johnsonrollforming.com/Asset/openseam_tubing.pdf

    Add : Thinking about how the forces act on the bar, you'd want to increase the torsional stiffness at right angle to bar with an extension of your 'T' shaped beam, into a stronger overall triangulation shape - so something like this ( in Plan / Section ) :

     

                      | |                                                                          o ,

    o------------[__]------------o                                                         |    o
      ````~~~~~~~~~~~~````                                                          o '  

     

    Bit rough, but you get the idea ... B)

     

    P.S. : Other option is to just butt weld two together ... :ph34r:


    Cheers, Bantum ...

    • Like 1
  9. I had some thoughts on doing a custom bumper for 'Fujiko' :

     

    IMG_4578.jpg

     

    I hope this make sense, as it's a fairly basic fabrication with bit of Tube, Equal Angle & Some Flat Plate. The same design could be done for the rear. The lights are optional, but a few low profile LED 'Spotties' would make a excellent nod to Subaru's rally heritage ... :) 

    Do note it's only a quick concept sketch, very roughly done to see if you like it … :wub:

     

     

    Add : The mounting bracket would in theory line up with chassis rail - through the gap in front valance ... ;)

     


    Cheers, Bantum ...


     


     

    • Like 2
  10. Um - I'd stop dreaming - its never going to happen .. :P

    Were all pirates & thieves at heart and will do whatever it takes to get one either way - legal or otherwise ... ;)

    Where I'm heading with this is : Get an old one scanned ( or scale an alternate version it to fit an R180 ) & post it up on the web for every one to share ... :ph34r: ...Then peep's can print parts out as they need in losses wax, take the moulds to a local foundary & get all the bits casted for it ... boom you're done ... B) ... ( Metal printing is still in its infancy, but will get there eventually, if you can wait that is ) Shouldn't cost any more than getting the metal together for a cast ( could re-use bits from your old diff ).

     

    Cheers, Bantum ...

     

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