urabus retserof

It really depends on the dealer. Some will be dicks and ask for it, others will not. It may also depend on what work is required. Is it oil change related? Make sure to call SOA, with VIN, to verify expiry date of the warranty.

I never noticed it. They can be adjusted, but are limited by the sweep to the right. If it is already going to the limit of the window, then you're pooched. There are slim profile replacement wipers on the market.

Try fuel antifreeze. Sitting around for extended periods in our weather, tends to make it worse for moisture build up in fuel systems. You may need a new filter as well.

The 50/50 lock is not available with an AT ( according to the dealer ). I'll have to make some calls to find someone who knows enough about the Subie AWD, before a dealer will take it seriously. You would think, that if there is always pressure on the shaft ( whether it is 30 or 70% ) a clunk wouldn't be heard, because it is already engaged. The dealer also said that the ABS applies braking to a spinning wheel. Wouldn't the wheel stop spinning on its own, when power is removed? What happens if all the wheels are spinning, because you're trying to go up an icy hill?

Yeah, and there should be a lot of steam on start-up to. I don't know why there are no tell-tale signs, except the level keeps going down. Is it possible that it only leaks when eng is running, but not enough to create the white plume?:-\

No, I've got mine wired to fry the little buggers, if they get close. Nothing noticeable in the exhaust gas. As for the engine evap, there would still be a noticeable residue. Two of their mechs looked at it, and 1st found nothing, 2nd says clamp was loose( It was spotless, no it wasn't cleaned up ).

A 5 yr drivetrain warranty is standard on this car. Feel free to change away.

You better read it again. 5 year warranty, it's still covered. They checked it 2 wks ago, found no leak . They check it again, they say they found leak. There is no sign of leak. There has never been any sign of coolant dripping, on the ground, or in the engine area. The clamp that they said was leaking, was spotless. Where did the fluid go? This all happened within a month. Before that, the level was fine.

Well I took the 2000 Forester L back to the dealer, after having it pressure checked 2 weeks ago ( no leak found ), and it was still leaking. Loh and behold, the press. check failed this time and they have found a loose clamp was the culprit. BS There has never been any sign of external leaking since I bought the car. They must think I'm an idiot. You can't drain the overflow tank twice in a month, and not see signs of a leak. I wish those darn plugs weren't in such a crappy spot, so that I could do a visual to check for internal head gasket leak. Any ideas?

As I suspected, they said everything is normal. They put the monitor on the ABS and found no abnormalities. I'll be taking it back, if it does it again next time it snows. As for the clunk, it may be normal, but it sure doesn't seem right. Anytime things clunk that hard in normal use, usually means early replacement.

Just because there is a recall, doesn't give them the right to do unauthorized maintenance. It's your car, so they have to ask for your permission. I would make them replace them.

I just bought it this summer. All the snow has melted from the roads, so I'll have to wait for my next trial run. It's going into the shop for another head gasket check tomorrow. I'll ask them about these problems, while it's in there. It's still under warranty, so I'm sure they'll say it's normal.

Be subtle with the gas!?! I bought this car to have fun with, not drive to church on Sunday!

If you just need bearings and brushes any electrical motor shop should be able to help.

This procedure is no more dangerous than giving/getting a boost with jumper cables. Most makers recommend you don't do this either, but what would you call a guy that wouldn't help you in your time of need? The output of the alternator is ultimately controlled by the rpm of the engine. That is why there is a high idle device to compensate for high drain items like the AC. The regulator does not control the alternator, but is designed to ensure that the preset voltage, and no more, is fed to the rest of the system. This crazy alternator runaway idea, is just that. I did recommend the use of a meter, but in a pinch, this method does work. 99% of the time when an alt goes, there is no output and the car will stall.