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Rustyboot

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  • Location
    Seattle, WA
  • Vehicles
    2001 Subaru Outback 2.5L

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  1. Replaced wheel bearing and ball joint. Took it for a test drive, the grind is gone and we're good to go
  2. Thanks for all the responses. My Chilton book book recommends having a mechanic replace wheel bearings? What are your thoughts? I live in Seattle, Les Schwab quoted me $285 not sure if anybody out there has a Seattle Subaru mechanic they recommend.
  3. grossgary I don't think I got the wrong caliper, rotor, or pads. I got the caliper and pads from Napa based on the specs for '01 Outback 2.5L in their system. And the same for the new rotor from O'Reilly Auto Parts. I'm also skeptical that the rotor or caliper is the wrong size because they only grind once (or in one spot) per rotation of the wheel. Also why would the grind be loudest during left turns, then right turns, and quietest while going straight? I'm definately not a mechanic, a plumber actually, but I keep thinking it is the wheel bearing. My thought is, that the bearing had been going bad for a while and eventualy crapped out on me, which caused the old rotor to grind overheating and seizing the old caliper. I never noticed the grind prior to the old one seizing but I typically drive with music on, windows down, and not slow enough to hear the grind with each rotation. What do you think?
  4. Ok so the issues continues. I removed the wheel, caliper, and rotor yesterday to identify what was grinding. The backing plate was not touching, all pins are new and greased, and everything was mounted square. I found 2 grooves on the top side of the caliper where the rotor apparently is grinding on it. My thought was maybe the rotor was not truly round and had a hump in it so I bought and installed a new rotor. Took it for a test drive and the grind persists. The grind is quietest when driving straight, louder when making right turns, and loudest when turning left. Thanks for the help. I'm determined to get this fixed
  5. -Rooster2 Before I had the rotor turned I did not notice any grooves in it. I did grease the sliding surfaces of the new pads and the pins on my new caliper came pre-greased. I have only driven the car around the block since replacing the caliper, pads, and turned rotors. If it was a stuck pin wouldn't it be a constant grinding rather than a pulsing grinding that mimics the rotation of the tire?
  6. I've got a 2001 Outback 2.5L with 186,000 miles. About a year ago I replaced the front passenger side brake caliper after it froze up. A couple weeks ago the same caliper froze up while I was on the freeway. I drove a few miles to an exit with the steering wheel vibrating hard and towed it home. After replacing the caliper again I get a heavy grinding that is consistent with the rotation of the wheel. It sound like grinding brakes but real loud. Here are the steps I have taken before getting stuck: -checked brake lines, all look good -checked brake fluid, bled out all air, it looks clean and fine -installed new caliper -new brake pads on front brakes (old pads on passenger side had worn at a slight angle not parallel to back of pad) -had the rotor turned at local auto parts store I'm definately no mechanic but try DIY as much as possible. I was thinking it could be a bearing or bad axle but not sure. Any help on troubleshooting and how to fix would really be appreciated. I cant really afford to pay a mechanic
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