beppomarx

ok well i just figured i would update this and see if anyone has ever encountered a problem like this.... i havent until now . ive been sooo busy lately but wanted to share this experience. ok first off i used a good deal of rust penetrant on all the bolts, backing them out a bit- spraying them and tightening them back up just past finger tight and repeating teh process. still about 25% of teh bolts i removed snapped but i guess thats just from it being older and sitting for these last few months. that can be rigged and worked around i guess... for the record yes the timing belt was sheared in half and looked like it took quite a chewing in the process. definitely the problem that it wouldnt run.. the real problem was uncovered after i removed the crank pulley. the shear pin on the crank spun a groove all the way around the inside hub of the pulley!!! not only that it messed up the groove in the crankshaft, i am not sure if a new shear pin will fit snugly in place anymore . from the looks of how it was put together i assume that someone had taken the timing belt of before because teh gaskets that hold the main plastic shroud (not the outer 2 pieces) was not seated properly at all and will need to be replaced as well. i am thinking that whoever did this replaced the (should be aluminum right?) shear pin with a steel one because it did quite some damage to the crank. so much that now that i have the pulley off i cannot even slide the timing gear off because the crank is distorted and probably mushroomed. i can BARELY wiggle the timing gear but it wont budge. im going to have to get a gear puller and force it off, buy a whole new gear and pulley, hand-file down teh crank, and pray that there is still somewhat of a straight-cut groove under the timing gear to hold the pin steady because outward where the crank pulley sets there is a (small) chunk of the crank missing where the shear pin would rest up against. if i can get my digital camera data cable back from my ex i will post up some pictures. this is definitely not the best way to do things but like i said i will just force/pull off the gear and file teh crank down where its distorted until a new one will slide on. well my original questoin was: where the hell is teh timing mark on the crank timing gear? the one i have is pretty dirty and it wasnt apparent but after seeing 777's pictures again closely i see that there is a liiiittle hash mark on one of those 6 notches i will just have to look closer. like i said i havent even got that gear off yet so its hard to see but once i get teh new gear and pulley it should be more apparent. also when replacing teh shear pin it SHOULD be an aluminum one right??? im probably just going to pick-n-pull and get some off a subaru- can anyone let me know what years would be compatible with this 92? (what years/models share the same engine) thanks in advance!!!

ok well im going to fulton tonight to borrow a 22mm socket from my buddy marty then. cheaper than buuying one eh and yeah i considered just taking off teh fans but like i said his fluid hasnt been changed in over 100,000 miles so i might as well just take it all off since i plan on draining it. 2 hose clamps and what 2 bolts? no big deal. 90% of the time i find that its even less work to slide the radiator up and out then messing with 8 bolts to take the fans off anyway. and all this talk about 'josh' is getting me confused. youre all like 'thanks josh' and im like 'wtf?' (my name is josh as well hahaha)

ok so i just got back from starting the project. im strapped as hell for time so i only spent like an hour on it before it was getting dusk, and i got stuck. nothing big but i have a question: what size is the crank pulley nut? my socket set goes to 19mm and i assume that one is 21 or 22mm. im gonna have to buy one and just wanna knwo which one to get. thanks in advance! also i was trying to work around the radiator but i see now ill have to bring a tub and drain the fluids- he hasnt done that in 110,000 miles either so thats no big deal.

do the crank and cam oil seals just pry out or is there a retaining clip or are they bolted in place? also where is the oil pump? please look at 777's gallery of pics and inform me as to what picture shows the oil pump and also if that seal is clipped, pressed, bolted etc. unfortnately i do not know if this guy is willing to (or even has the cash to) replace the water pump and idler pulleys. i will bring it to attention but im not sure if he will go for it- its not my car :-\ damn the valley... thats up in the top 3 places that i WILL NOT visit after dusk. 6' 150lb white boy doesnt exactly fit in too well and i dont appreciate getting shot at; ill play it safe from now on. that P&C is pretty ghetto too but since its a main street right off the highway its still pretty well lit and patrolled (by cops i mean, not the hood). ive only been in the cuse for almost 2 years. i went almost 21 years in fulton and then relocated to be closer to the job. i always heard that its not cake here and you hear about all the stuff on the news but when i was on westcott i was flying down it on my way home for lunch about 55mph and came up over the hill past euclid and saw like 5 cop cars and an ambulance . but they didnt pay my speeding rump roast any mind, even with my long 4-1 header and ricer hyundai exhaust . i learned later that day 2 houses down from my apartment (where they were at) there was a big drug dispute and 2 murders. it gets cold when that §hit gets so close to where you call home... same block and all.

you guys rock. quicker responses than i get on hyundaiperformance.com maybe ill invest in a subaru one of these days; ive always wanted an SVX. i kinda planned on that being my next car anyways ive been dreaming to throw a pair of GT28's in and run 12psi with a forester (i hear those will work not sure...) or WRX manual tranny swap. however i know i will be hard pressed to squeeze all that in there but i like challenges, time will tell. as for the problems the car is having: it wont run. supposedly it cranks (i havent seen it) but wont start and just died on the spot one day while driving. the shop he towed it to said it was a timing belt so i suspect it just snapped, hes had it since like 60k and it was never changed at all. its sat for like 4 months now i just met this guy lik 2 months ago at work. anyway, i am thankful to hear that the pistons have not made theirselves acquainted with any valves. all hyundai engines are interference with semi-pent roofs so valves can and do bend, gotta be careful playing with timing- i know that one too well. are the oil seals on the cams and crank accessible without pulling the heads or block apart? this legacy has 176,000 on the clock maybe if they can be changed easily i will suggest those too. probably not but ill throw that out here anyway. so basically the belt itself will have marks on it to line everything up i like that. 777, i see how yours was stretched and the marks on the plastic shroud lined up perfectly after the new install. is that cylinder in the DCP_2718.JPG picture the hydraulic tensioner that needs to be viced? i am doing this in an apartment complex parking lot i should be able to use a c-clamp right? after its compressed will it not spring back out immediately; how do you hold it compressed to bolt it back in place? do those allen screws need to be messed with? or does it just slide in and then you pry it toward the crank to set tension and then bolt her down? also those tech sheets say to remove the cam sprockets is that necessary??? i wouldnt think so... also what is the white arrow on the crank gear in this picture: http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/timingbelt/DCP_2728.JPG did you photochop that in there because i do not see that in the other pictures... in your original picture before you removed the old belt i see a white dab of paint that marks TDC as in this picture: http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/timingbelt/DCP_2702.JPG and i do not see that on the new install... did you clean that off and mark it some other way? also the crank's shear pin does not seem to be in the same spot as it was before after your install. to colorado: i live now on west genesee st up by avery. just moved here from westcott st which was technically SU campus, i miss the constant parade of college chicks but im doing alright here too. to anyone eho has never lived in syracuse: dont live here hehe. its cool to visit and such and SU is a good school (although overpriced), trust me when i say that theres too much grime in these streets and its not getting any better. only reason i am still here is that i have a good financial business that has a crazy crazy huge market here and once i am on my way past 50k/year i will open up my own base shop for someon else to run and ill be out of these bull§hit winters for good. its already freezing out and i still havent bought snowtires- snow will hit next week yikes

hey guys, laugh all you want but im a hyundai guy at heart. im 22 years old, and although not a certified mechanic, i own a 1993 hyundai scoupe turbo, 2002 hyundai accent GL, and have worked with almost every hyundai model excluding the older mitsubishi stuff. i have done tranny swaps and rebuilds, engine swaps, installed superchargers, intercoolers, rebuilt bottome ends etc. so i know my way around anyways this is my first post so go easy on me... i tried searching and looked around but dont see any online manuals for maintinence procedures. my friend has a 1992 legacy which is FWD. i believe its a 2.2 but i didnt look closely enough... i have only looked under the hood quickly and have not done any diagnostics on it yet but he claims its ben to a mechanics shop and they diagnosed it as a timing belt. first thing i will do is a compression test to see if that shows anything. the timing belt location seems easy enough, just remove the accessories (PS, alt, AC etc) in teh front and the cam sprocket covers and timing belt covers are right there. i will follow with my questions: are there actually 2 timing belt or is it one long one that runs acros the crank to both cams? is this engine an interference type? IE: am i getting into replacing valves if the belt has snapped? are the timing marks on the head and crank pulley apparent, or do i need a protracter to find TDC? (lol) all in all this looks like if there are no bent valves this should be a ~3 hour job- mainly so long since i have never worked on this engine before but it looks pretty straightforward. probably closer to 2 hours but ill be conservative. if you have any tips or tricks, advice etc just help me out a little. im doing this for some spare cash for the guy but if im gonna have to get into replacing bent valves then i may reconsider starting the job on saturday. thanks in advance!