Mustakrakesh

Wierdly no, I'm 5'10. At max height the drivers seat sits as high as the stock one. I was always rolling my thigh on the steering wheel getting in and out of the car. (I know that I should use the little steering wheel tilt function, but I always forget it's there) Now I don't. I'm not seeing much interest, so I'll just toss them in with the trash this weekend.

Hey everyone, I just changed out the seats in my Loyale wagon for ones from a XT Coupe. There was a difference in color so I changed out the rear (material only) to match. Long story short I'm going to have a pair of clean grey Loyale seats + rear bench material. (I'm going to wash the upholstery, off the foam, then put them back together, I'll swap the drivers and passengers foam so they'll feel newer) My Loyale only has 170,xxxkm on the odometer, so they're gently used. I was wondering if anyone had any interest in them. I'm almost willing to let them go for free so long as whom ever pays for the shipping. There are no tears, burns, or stains. Otherwise will just toss them in with the garbage and that'll be that. I'm in Ottawa, Ontario. Edit: I also have a steering wheel, all 4 armrests, and the sun visors. Also a base model canadian cluster with 171,xxx on the odometer. The XT seats were blue, and the car has a grey interior, so I switched slot of pieces over to be blue, thus being leftover with a bunch of grey interior bits. They're all in good shape, I just feel bad throwing them out.

Snapped when removing, I tried everything, back and forth, heat, penetrant and it still snapped on me. What is easy out?

I've broken the outer most bolt for an EA82 oil pump. This is the bolt closest to the ear of the mickey mouse seal. Whats the likelihood of an oil leak if I finish the re-seal and t-belts? The other 4 bolts are fine and torqued down. I've tried drilling the bolt out because it broke flush to the engine, but I've caught it out of center and I'm losing hope that I'll be able to drill it clean and tap a new thread. If you guys recommend fixing the hole and re-tapping it what kind of drill bits would you recommend? I was doing this job in hopes of ridding the engine of the lifter tick, but I'm worried I've just made the problem worse. Any and all advice appreciated, thanks.

Yeah I think you're right, I'm still going to try if an opportunity presents itself. I checked my ignition timing, I'm assuming even if its ok, there could still be an issue with belt timing right? I have to pull the engine anyways because I have a little frame repair to do . I've been trying to put this off however, to check/repair my timing would I be better off just pulling it out or is doing it in the engine bay not that big of a hassle?

So I checked out my EJ22, its missing alot of stuff, ( it was used at school taken apart a few times) That why it was free haha. So I was thinking I'd wait a little longer looking for a donor vehicle, the sad thing is my Loyale's body is quite poor, and there was a mint Loyale sitting on rimstands (rims welded together) at my local scrapyard. They're being really difficult about selling it to me. Sadly I missed out on an EJ18 FWD 1993 Impreza.

Sweet a nice, concise answer, I'm going to tear into my EJ22 this weekend. Hit up the scrapyard and try to pull an ecu and harness, I'm going to try and wire it myself, If I fail,I will be pm'ing you about that harness. Is there anything I need to do to my clutch to get my EJ22 in? or should mine bolt up to the EJ flywheel? Thanks

Hello, I own a 1993 Subaru Loyale, I'm at a standstill with it currently, I know the motor is going to go soon, it runs "poorly" when revv'd past 3k rpm it makes a horrible slapping noise, also it shakes the car really badly. I don't know which route to take, rebuild my EA82, or swap in an EJ22, I have a EJ22 that also would need to be rebuilt. The problem is that I believe its from a newer model (1998+) Also I have no ECU, or firewall harness, I believe the motors harness is still there. Also I don't know if the EJ22 ran or is seized or anything about it really. Hear-say tells me that it might have forged rods and pistons, and that it was built for a rally Impreza. Also I was told that it overheated. I know the best case scenario is I buy a 1995 or lower EJ22 donor car, but those are hard to come by here at least for a good price, not to mention cost in the adaptor. I can get the harness and ECU for the EJ for less than 100$. In short I'm asking what would be the better "bang for my buck" option, Rebuild EA82, or Rebuild and swap EJ22. Honestly I just want the car to be road worthy, but a little more power wouldn't hurt. Thanks.

So actually after reading I figured it out. I'm not going to use red/green. Blue yyellow works as my ignition 12v And I found a green wire with a connector that works as a constant 12v Thanks anyways!

So I've connected everything properly triple checked. My radio only turns on when the light switch is on... Is this normal? I checked with a test light too I'm only.getting power on red/green when my lights are on...

I took the radio out last night and I was refering to the wire colors that go from the connector to the radio, because I was hoping to swap pins on my two connectors so I don't have to solder anything, but I just went out to the car and I have all the wire colors mentioned above. the color changes at the connector. My bad! I should be able to get this to work. Where are the rear speakers located? Is it possible my model only came with front speakers? Also why new grounds? (My guess would be that after 20 years they're probably worn out)

Yes I'm trying to put in a new radio. Shouldn't I just be able to solder to the right wires? Thats how I usually do it... I guess what I'm trying to say is that wiring diagrams and charts don't match up with my stock radio. So I have no idea what wire does what.

I wasn't sure it this is the right place to post this, But I need some help, Every wiring diagram, or chart I've looked at doesn't seem to match up with my stock radio. Memory (+12v Constant) Red/Green Ignition (+12v Switched) Blue/Yellow Ground (-) Black Illumination Dimmer Power Antenna Red/White Left Front Speaker (+) Yellow Left Front Speaker (-) Blue/Red Right Front Speaker (+) White Right Front Speaker (-) Blue/Black Left Rear Speaker (+) Yellow/White Left Rear Speaker (-) Blue/Red Right Rear Speaker (+) White/Blue Right Rear Speaker (-) Blue/Black Some of my wires match up, but most don't I have Blue (With a 5A fuse inline) Black Red Red/Green Yellow/Red Yellow Green White Yellow/White Grey Yellow/Black Orange (with connector end) Anyone have any ideas? My stock radio model # is 86225GA400

Wow, do I ever feel like a moron. I printed up a wiring diagram and within seconds I knew I was testing the wrong relay. I should have known too, the relay pin was bent and melted as was the connector. Look what I did to the poor Loyale because of my ignorance! Heres the relay and connector, just to humor someone. Oh, so now that I've got it working, I was hoping to find the right resistors to restore all my fan speeds. Does anyone know the values for 1,2,3? They're not listed in my wiring diagram. Thanks.

Ok, so I spent about 3 hours today trying to get the blower to work. I checked the relay (above the fuse box, blue connector) I checked the switch, (rather I replaced it with my spare) And I checked the resistor pack (my middle coil is burned out) I still can't get anything out of it. I have the switch on 4, because I figure that wouldn't go through the resistor pack. I tried soldering a porclaine resistor onto the resistor pack, I've tried jumping the resistor pack. I've switched the relays, and I've tried the clean the copper connections on the switch. Nothing has worked, anywhere else I can check? The blower works fine when I connect it to a battery outside of the car. I mean the only thing I haven't done is literally pull out all the wires and check them, I just my next step is to check them for continuity. I've got half the dash torn apart and I'm getting nowhere.

The motor spins like its brand new, I don't think the 1, 2, 3, 4 light up but when I press the vent controls, they light up. Radio works, everything else lights up. I believe the previous owner got another 1,2,3,4 switch from a junkyard, but I don't think that could be the problem could it? Is there not a relay for the blower motor? or is it just a fuse? If I could find a wiring diagram I'd be set. I'm up in Canada so there are basically no Loyales anywhere, everything in the junkyards is like an 1995+ Impreza or Legacy, could I find a fuel pump from them? or am I better off ordering from eBay? or some where else? What's involved in changing the pump? I read in another post that an F-150 pump can be used, but it puts out 90psi, when the Subaru one puts out 45, and that it can be strenuous on the pressure valve, Any other alternatives that I might be able to pull out of the scrapyard? I don't want to wait for shipping, but I don't want to pay for something that won't work or may cause me more trouble down the road.

My fuel pump is making a loud whirring sound its audible in the car at idle. Is this common or correct? Should I look into replacing it? I don't want to get stranded anywhere. Second question is, my blower motor doesn't function at all on any speed, is the the fault of the relay? My fuses are all fine, can I hook up a battery directly to the blower without causing damage to it? Thanks.

The problem could have been two things, One: I let the master go dry. Two: I had a pinhole somewhere near the rear right wheel. I tried to remove the piece of line at the rear wheel and it snapped on me, While I was making a new line I decided to pump fluid from the back to the master using a pump for oil in lower units on motorboats. After I put the new line on everything worked as it should have. So hooray for me, and thanks to everyone for helpful advice. Honestly without y'all I would be waiting on a new master cylinder.

So I tired again today, another 2 hours with no results. Tried with the finger over the MC, with the line off, Built up pressure but after the lines were attached all pressure was gone and I was back in the same spot. Nothing but air comes through, and the worst part is that there is pressure, but no fluid. When you "bench bleed" are you supposed to cover both lines for front and rear? (on that system FL and RR) because I was just covering the line to the front left caliper. The line to the rear right was attached to MC while I was doing it. I know I must be doing something wrong, Is it possible for an MC to only put out fluid for half the system (FR and RL)? and the rest is broken internally? Thanks for any and all help :/ -Martin

Its a 1992 Loyale 4WD with HH I believe. I unscrewed the line for left front brake at the master cylinder and it's not coming from the master either. So I'm assuming that its my master, when I put some air through and try and push some wire through (was hoping to clear some debris, it was probably a bad idea) some fluid comes out but after a couple seconds or so it stops. So I don't know... It works for a bit then doesn't I can't figure it out. Don't wanna sound like I'm giving up, simply all the information I've looked up doesn't mention one system working and the other completely dry. Maybe I didn't look hard enough I don't know.

So I just replaced my rotors and pads. Seeing as both my rotors had cracks in them making it terribly hard to stop the car. And I figured while I was at it I'd replace the black brake fluid so I let the system drain overnight and was hoping to gravity bleed in the morning. To my suprise only half of the system wants to bleed, EDIT: Front left, and rear right are dry as a bone. Front right, and rear left are full of fluid no air. So basically I tried blowing air through the "clogged" system (with a bicycle pump lol) I can see air bubbles coming up at the reservoir! so its not clogged, but no fluid comes through. Before I buy a new master cylinder I'd like to know if anyone else has had a similar problem, and maybe theres a fix? Been at it for over two hours now, I guess I'm not taking her out just yet!

My Loyale is 4WD manual, I actually just replaced the front discs and pads, and bled the system dry. Now I have a problem, but I will start a thread under the correct category. Already liking this board a lot.

Well I hope to do my apprenticeship at a Subaru dealer. I work as an oil changer/ tire changer guy. And I do get to see a lot of really poor designs.

Hello, I am new here I own a 1997 Impreza Outback Sport. Recently I purchased a 1993 Loyale, Loyales are quite rare in my parts. I purchased the car for 300$, running and driving (but not braking) so basically I'm here to ask questions and learn something. My Impreza is my daily driver so I dare not attempt mods to it until my Loyale has been brought to a satisfactory level. I am a student in auto mechanics. Which is why I bought my Loyale so I could work on it and mod it without much consequence. Pictures are of my cars