SLAVAGE

Yep, thats the bolt, thanks silverback!

I have a 91 Loyale EA82 Yesterday the crank pulley that runs the alternator & accessories v-belt loosened up and fell off (its the center pulley that connects to same shaft as both timing belts & flywheel). I have the pulley and belt but I need to figure out the correct bolt size as the bolt got lost ( I know its a 22mm head but i don't know the length, width or thread size). I must have not gotten this bolt quite tight enough when i did the timing belts this summer. Anybody know the bolt size/type? Thanks!

Yes, one tooth does make a big difference! Also changed one of the tensioner pulleys that had seized up and I hadn't realized it the first time around. Everything is running well now, I have power back underfoot! It still acts a little sluggish occasionally but it did before the belt broke and I think that's due to a small exhaust leak. Thanks all for the help, I'll add this one to the list of things I would never have been able to do without the USMB!

Ignition timing is fine, but the drivers side belt is off by one tooth. I'll fix that tomorrow and see how it runs. Thanks everyone for the help, MilesFox i don't think i could have done the job without your written/photo tutorial, thank you. The videos are great too, just didn't see them til now. hoping the one tooth solves the problem!

just checked them and yes they are 180 degrees of each other. Might be off a couple degrees from exactly 180, but it looks right on to me.

Got the job done and the car running, thanks for the help. I can at least drive it around now but its not running very strong, the engine struggles hard on acceleration, especially in the lower rpm range. It sounds alright but I give it gas and it doesn't give me much power in return. It would do this occasionally before the belt broke, but its way worse now. If the timing was off by just one or two degrees of cam sprocket rotation, would that cause this? Or do I need to be looking into something else?

thank you Loyale2.7Turbo, I'm definitely going to leave the covers off. We are part way through, everything is going alright so far except we cannot get the cam sprockets to turn to line the marks up. Is there a trick to that?

I've got a 91 Loyale (5speed, ea82, non-turbo, 4wd) and it died last week, and won't start. After some research on here and playing around under the hood and seeing that the distributor rotor didn't spin, I found that the driver's side timing belt had snapped. I found milesfox's Timing belt replacement guide which is plenty thorough to get me through the process with my small amount of knowledge I think, but I've got a few questions. ( http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/48359-timing-belt-procedure-ea82/ ) First, the previous owner replaced the timing belts and resealed the engine right before he sold the car to me which is somewhere between 15000-20000 miles ago, so not very long for a timing belt to snap. So, what causes a timing belt snap and are there things I should be looking at that could have caused this problem? Second, is it totally necessary to remove the engine or radiator to do this job? Is it either/or ? If I have to remove the engine i'm not going to try this one myself, but if i can just pull the radiator out i will probably try it. Thanks!

So here's the saga of the passenger side rear wheel noise... Took the Loyale into the shop, they replaced the drum and repacked the bearings, said the bearings were ok. No noise for about a day and then it stated grinding again and would pop on hard left turns (when force was put over that wheel). Drove it a few more days and took it back in as grinding and popping got worse and worse. Established that the axle splines were worn down so much that they were causing the splines on the drum to strip, so found a guy on craigslist that was parting out an old loyale and I got the original axle and the drum from that. I thought they were going to put in a warranty drum from the first repair but there was a miscommunication in the shop and they put in the used drum, with the axle and replaced the bearings this time too. As soon as i left I noticed a rubbing sound when braking and turning left. Not as bad as the grinding from before, so I chalked it up to the rust on the used drum needing a day to wear in. Gave it two days and it got a little worse and then all of a sudden went away. I took it back to the shop again and had them put on the new warranty drum that they were originally going to use. They told me that they thought the continued noise could have been that the bearings didnt get pressed in perfectly straight when they installed them and had to work their way in. I finally thought I had the winning combination: new drum + used OEM axle + new bearings, but the noise is back after only one day away, again its a metal on metal rubbing sound, not too harsh of grinding, and only during left turns and a sometimes during braking. Any ideas on what to do? I could check the washer as MilesFox suggests, but i dont have a torque wrench to properly torque the castle nut back on. Is it good enough to just torque it as hard as I can with a breaker bar? And can the spring washer wear out to the point wear its not providing any spring force anymore?

cool, thanks, i was concerned about it binding in 4x4 if the wear difference created a slight size difference between front and rear, but i bought a full set of almost new winters on craigslist tonight so I don't even have to consider it now.

Alright thanks for the tips, I'll try again when this cold snap breaks, I just wedged some cardboard in front of the radiator for the moment, hoping to squeeze out a couple more degrees from the heater. One quick unrelated question: I've got one tire with a sidewall puncture, would prefer to just replace two tires vs. all four, but I can't find the same brand/model here; Is it bad for the tranny and differential to run two tires of one brand and two tires of another (where one set has more wear than the other) even if they are the same size?

Any tips on getting the hoses off the firewall input? I undid the hose clamp and slid it out of the way and then pulled on the hose as hard as I could but couldn't get it to budge. Is there a trick to it or a tool to use? And should I drain the coolant from the system before I swap the lines, or is the heater core connection a high enough point that it doesn't all run out when you take a hose off?

Thanks! I'll try that.

Hey, I've got a 91 Loyale and I'm pretty sure its got a clogged heater core. Thermostat was just replaced and blower motor was replaced in the last 10000 miles but the heat is still only the faintest bit warm. Going into another cold snap here in the midwest, so flushing the heater core seems like the next option. I was planning on using the garden hose pressure + detergent method followed by hooking the hoses up backwards for a day, but I'm not so knowledgeable on the system layout, so I need confirmation that I've got the right hoses. Are the heater core hoses the two rubber hoses that are maybe 1" diameter and enter the fire wall next to eachother directly under the spare tire mount?

Found the vac connection, got my 4x4 and defrost back! The noise is still there, the rear passenger wheel was sitting pretty wonky, so I jacked it up back there and the wheel had an insane amount of play, beyond what I've ever seen from a bad wheel bearing. Took the wheel, castle nut, washers and the drum off, and found a ton of metal dust and the stub shaft splines look overly worn and there appears to be no axle cup anymore (not sure that is the correct thing to call it - I mean the part that has the female splines that the axle engages). Bearings might be shot, not really sure here. Gonna take it in to a shop tomorrow, its below zero here and I can't deal with this in the cold right now. Thanks for your help SmashedGlass, you were right about the T for the vac connection being obvious - once I was looking in the right area of course!