GeneralDisorder

Hey man I cleared my inbox but your account is saying it can't recieve messages.

Hey - I got your axle out of the hub and saved the hub and the axle (and the bad bearing FWIW). I put it in the press with about 15 tons on it for several days and kept soaking it in Yield. Finally popped free! Drop by my shop sometime and you can have the hub and axle for spares. Hope all is well with the new components.

Rick

You can stop by my shop if you like - I'm right off I-205.

Superior Soobie and Import

17843 SE McLoughlin Blvd.

Suite #4

Milwaukie, OR 97267

5o3-88o-4o84

Rick

No rust issues. It's an Oregon car - we don't experience rust here. They don't have the salt mine resources to use salt on the roads... It doesn't have a sunroof but I could have one installed for you. And anything else you might like for that matter. I have a partnership with a body shop that does amazing custom work, etc.

I'll snap some pictures of it currently but there are some from the previous post when it was for sale:

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=128455

I'll get started on putting the finishing touches on the wiring I need to do. I pulled out it's OBD-I harness that was hacked and very poorly done and replaced it with a '95 OBD-II manual transmission harness and manifold that I prepped myself. I'm a bit of a perfectionist when it comes to mechanical and electrical and the way it was done was completely unacceptable.

Rick

Yes I do have an '85 GL-10 wagon that's very clean and EJ22 swapped already. It's white with nicely tinted windows, etc. It's also got the rare red velour interior (the "pimp" interior) as well as a working digi-dash, etc. It was originally a 2WD 5 speed car but has been converted to 4WD 5 speed with dual-range.

It's running a '95 EJ22 with OBD-II. The engine has 95k miles on it and runs great. It was resealed and dressed with timing belts, etc when it was installed.

I have some wiring to do yet but it's almost ready for sale.

It has some parking dings and the front drivers corner could use a little work on the fender and hood or they could easily be swapped out for stock white replacements or repaired.

I'm likely going to ask $3k for it. It's quite nice and will make a great reliable car for many years. There's some things that it could use like struts and some rear disc brakes, etc but overall it's a really clean platform to start with and you don't find these GL-10's with the red interior - let alone EJ swapped.

Let me know if you want pictures, etc. My number is 5o3-88o-4o84

Rick

No point in rebuilding a 2.2 - it's not economically viable, and if your bottom end is good then there's really no point in not welding the key in place. What is stopping you from fixing it? Welding the key in place doesn't prevent dissasembly of the engine in any way - the oil pump drive is larger than the key/shaft combination and removal of the crank involves splitting the case so there's no drawback to welding it.

Rick

I have a set from an aircraft guy I know that have the equivelent of 5,000 miles on them since a full rebuild and look excellent. He upgraded to a more powerful engine....Shouldn't need anything done to them. I can surface them for you as well so they will be ready to bolt-on. I'll sell them for $150 for the set.

Rick

I probably have some heads, yes. They would be 2.2 heads but they are interchangleable with the 1.8. What's wrong with the heads you have? Usually pretty cost-effective to rebuild them.

Rick

Hey - I'm the guy that Will got the deer wagon from and I've got that red light camera deal from AZ here on my desk. They are just asking for your information so they can send this to the right person - I suppose they looked at my drivers license and decided I didn't look like you.... anyway it looks like I have everything but your drivers license number and date of birth. Could you drop me an email at cropperr@gmail.com?

Thanks,

Rick

Having an engine shipped is possible - most of the places I deal with will ship it for you. Check out www.car-part.com - that's the best source for engines.

GD

I'm in Portland, Oregon.

Hi - pleased to meet you!

I can certainly take care of all your Brat needs )

The clutch will be about $350 to $400 - I have to check on the price of a kit. I don't use cheap clutch kits - pretty much Exedy and a few other select Japanese brands. Subaru's, and especially EA81's are picky about those.

You can contact me here, or give me a call at 503-880-4084. I'm located in West Linn - near Oregon City, etc on the south end of Portland.

Yes we will be making UEL headers. It will be a few weeks most likely - the water jet cutter that my exhaust guy has for flanges, etc blew up one of it's high pressure pumps and they are waiting for a replacement. When they get it up and running it will still be a while for them to catch up on production.

Rick

No problem! Did the hessitation improve at all with my adjustments? Let me know when you want to take a look at that linkage problem, etc. We can fix that up no problem.

Rick

Probably can't get them from a bearing house because they are an automotive specific bearing - auto part supplier is the best route. I beleive rockauto.com has the best prices I've seen. Around $35 for a bearing. NTN or Koyo are the brands to look for.

GD

I noticed that you are looking for some help to do an EJ swap in your lifted Brat. I've done quite a few EJ swaps on EA81's. If you are interested send me a message or email, etc - cropperr(at)gmail(dot)com.

GD

The Imp bearings are not like the old EA wheel bearings - you don't have the option of a sealed bearing assembly because they use a three-peice tapered roller bearing. Are you going to be doing this yourself? You will need some special tools to do the job. The NTN And Koyo bearings are both good and come pre-greased. I've used both with great results.

GD

Sure - I do the 2.2 swaps for people quite often. I've done at least 8 this last year alone - did a '98 Forester about a month ago. It's quite an economical swap - usually coming in right around $1300 for a used engine with warantee, new seals/gaskets/timing belt/wp/hoses/etc, and installation. We love this swap around my shop as it's both economical and reliable.

Rick

The "linkage" consists of the part you mentioned - the "yoke" that bolts to the transmission - as well as another similar yoke inside the cabin that attaches the rod you noted to the actual shifter. Both of those unions have bushings on either side of the "inside" tube that the bolt goes through. There is also a ball and socket inside the cabin as well as front and rear mounts for the whole mess..... the front "knuckle" that is pinned to the transmission shift rod can either be bolted together or can be riveted starting sometime in '96 or '97 I beleive. The riveted versions often fail and cannot be serviced.

Rick

Syncro problems are usually related to grinding when shifting, etc. If it's not staying in a gear then you may have lost one or more of the three spring loaded keepers that maintain the syncro posistion - unfortunately no amount of expensive gear oil will help with that. It could be something wrong with your shifter linkage also - I would check all your bushings, etc. Slop in them might be causing you to not get it into gear far enough.

The clutch cable would not be related. The gear selection is entirely internal except for the linkage rod that goes to the shifter.

Rick

I don't know of anyone in Gresham - GLoyale builds lift kits down in the Eugene area I think. SJR makes decent stuff though a bit expensive IMO.

Rick

The EA81 will not fit easily unless you have the front engine cross-member from an '81 Brat GL. Otherwise I beleive there are interferance issues with the steering shaft. Other than that I don't know what you will run into as I have never had the opportunity to install an EA81 into a gen-1.

Rick

That's Great! Amazing what a little investigating and poking about with sharp objects will do eh?

Rick

Yes - you can slip a quarter into the AIS valve body and thread the pipe fitting back on - that will effectively block the valve and will help with the backfireing.

GD