igammie
-
Posts
53 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Store
Everything posted by igammie
-
Gloyale "Biggest thing is to support the inner race of the bearing as you press the hub through. If not, the outer bearing race will be loaded by the force of the press." [i only wanted to quote that line...] Thank you, that is obvious; and I hadn't thought of it. Imdew, Given how little the parts cost and the relative ease of the job.... I'm not good at ignoring stuff, it's like an itch I have to scratch! -
http://allwheeldriveauto.com/subaru-repair-seattle-wheel-bearings-explained-part-1/
-
My gut reaction is to agree with you. If I got 260K miles from the old fashioned type..... The newer standard roller bearing is easier to install, but.... I'm undecided. Who do you purchase old fashioned tapered 'finger' roller bearings from? Which brands do you trust which have to best life in Subarus? Thanks! (I attached pics of the two types in case someone is confused - I have always called them finger bearings but I don't know if that was my family or universal?)
-
With brain working, I think I might have answered my question? I think the circlip should prevent contact?
-
I see from attached Subaru service bulletin that Subaru changed specs from the 'Finger' roller bearings installed at manufacture to regular roller wheel bearings. I have the new part but I am concerned that the mating surface hub is radiused and that will destroy the oil seal it is against? That it will lead to premature failure? Anyone have any real word experience? Thanks!
-
The Scrap yard told me they were different; from memory I thought they were both 3.2 lock to lock wasn't too sure about the Wheel base but know that the width is identical?
-
Anyone know if I can use a steering rack from a Legacy Outback (96) in a Legacy (97). I have no idea if there is a difference, I just replaced the rack with a second hand one, which is now leaking. They Legacy OB is the only rack in this area. Thanks!
-
Thanks Fairtax4me; you helped me reach the right conclusion. I ordered the Timken parts today. I ordered one complete set of seals, that I'll return if not needed.
-
Given that it is an seventeen year old car that has done 260,000 miles I think there is a good chance that the seals will have dried out and since I am taking the hub to pieces the extra cost of replacing seals is small compared to the increased life of the new bearing? Same reason I'll do both sides unless it looks like it was done before I go car (once I have it apart).
-
I agree completely; I was just thinking of trying the Febest in case they were worth it. It could save people a bunch...
-
Might be willing to try? http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/81-wheels-tires-brakes-suspension/102698-02-outback-transverse-link-bushing-rear.html
-
It is cheap; but, that isn't enough to make me try it... If someone else can vouch THEN, I'll take the chance?
-
Has anyone tried these? Can anyone vouch for them? This is the link for my car: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DM9SZPI/ref=ox_sc_imb_mini_detail?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A6JK0PO3GJYXY If not I'll buy the Timken part from Rockauto. FYI the Amazon part is $34 including seals and snap ring. The Rock auto is a lot more as you purchase each part separately. Thanks in advance. As you know the job sucks I don't want to save 50% and do it again next year. Pressed bearings suck!
-
I just put a new, to me (used rack}. I put in cheap power steering fluid as I intend to flush the system and replace. I have to assume rack and my handiwork will produce contaminants. How long should I wait before I change? I was thinking a month (I drive about 1,400 miles per month. Thanks in advance! If this is elsewhere and I missed it, sorry.
-
I set it by voltage... My scan tool is quite basic; I'll have a look and see if I can access that data?
-
I have not resolved it; I am just stubborn and still trying. I hate not finding out what is causing it. not given up; I fear I might end up either buying a power probe, or paying someone with more skill than me? I used to be an Alfa Romeo nut, electrical problems are fortunately much rarer with the Suby.
-
The more expensive ones I found are copper with plastic surround; as opposed to Aluminum with plastic. Not found any with AL surround...
-
I am planning on replacing the stock radiator. Which brands would you recommend? There are a huge range of brands and prices from generic, no name for $65; to NISSENS for about $145. Thanks for your input
-
All under-hood connections are good; the ones I have removed I detached again and sprayed male and female sides with electrical contact cleaner. Found some slack in Cruise Control Throttle cable and dealt with that. I fear I might have found a job beyond my skill? I'll keep trying and testing, until there is nothing left; then I fear I'll have to pay someone with more skill than me? (which is a pretty big group of people!)
-
I think I found it; now I have to try to understand and use it! http://prntscr.com/25ng9i OK, I think; that I need to check for 5V on #21 at ECM, and 0.5V (at idle) at #6. If I got that wrong please correct me Oh can someone, anyone, tell me where to find the Engine Control Module? I think it is in passenger footwell, but, I don't know... FSM Throttle Position sensor http://prntscr.com/25nk41
-
I'm digging.... Is the ECU in the passenger footwell? (when I get there.... I have to find the damn wiring diagram first) Thanks!
-
I will check all the harness connections today. I have continuity between ground cable and Battery post; so that is not issue. Signal wire is 0.5V (near as dammit). Since I have an irregular idle, Carb cleaner won't work, as well. The ECU is in the passenger footwell, right? It is a 1997 Legacy L EJ22; do you have any idea where I'd find a 'pinout chart' and test procedure? Unfortunately my Factory Service Manual has very little on this. It still triggers 2 x P0122 and a P1700 at every start. If I clear they come right back. My daily commute is 33 miles it is 'stuttering' (loses about 500 RPM for about 3 seconds) about ten miles into this drive, while on Cruise control, and continues until I get to work. I fear I might have to bite the bullet and find a good auto electrician? Thank you all for your input, I'll be honest auto electrics is not my strongest area; I am really grasping at straws to try to fox this...
-
Given I am running out of options, I need to check for a vacuum leak; I don't hear any hissing so I'll have to blow cigar smoke in there - I do not own a smoke machine.... If anyone has an idea where I should blow smoke in I'd be grateful for any input... Thanks MIght try this instead? - Homemade Smoke machine design: http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Archives/Archive-000002/HTML/20130314-1-081547.html Additional details - http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=461116
-
OK Signal wire good, Live wire good and ground seems to be OK? Anyone know what is an acceptable resistance between ground wire and battery negative. Any idea what I need to check next?
-
Found this on another board: from identifix: Vehicle Application: 1997 Subaru Legacy SUS 2.5L Customer Concern: The check engine light is on with a code P0122 the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) low signal. The TPS sensor was replaced. Tests/Procedures: 1. Verify the Red wire has 5-volts at the TPS sensor and the Black wire has a good ground. 2. Check the White signal wire, it should have approximately 0.5 volts closed throttle and sweep up to 4.2 to 4.7 volts. If there is no voltage look for a grounded signal wire. 3. If the voltage is correct, check for a open wire or a poor connection between the TPS sensor and the Engine Control Module (ECM). Potential Causes: Mis-Adjusted Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Wiring Diagnostic Codes: P0122 Author: Wayne Pasicznyk
