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Ionstorm66

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Ionstorm66 last won the day on January 3 2021

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    92 Loyale Wagon

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  1. Also make sure there is a screw in the rotor. The screw can fall out and the dizzy wont work as the rotor wont spin.
  2. Look for some 15x6 wheels with about 0.5 to 1 inch of offset(3.5-4" backspacing). Those fit my ea82 wagon like a glove, running 175/55R15, the tires are the exact same size as the stock 175/70R13's.
  3. Accumulators are used on systems with orifice tubes, the orifice is a fixed metering device, so if the evaporator gets too cold, liquid refrigerant can exit the evaporator. This will damage the compressor, as it can only compress gases. The accumulator sits between the evaporator and compressor, and allows the liquid to expand. They also contain the desiccant and filter that would be in a filter drier. EA81/82 have temperature controlled expansion valves, so they don't need one. The expansion valve replaces the orifice tube. It has a capillary tube that sits on the evaporator. When the capillary cools it closes the expansion valve so the refrigerant is always a gas in the evaporator. So you only need a drier to dry and clean the refrigerant.
  4. You have the car in 4th and the motor is turning, is the car moving? You might need to adjust the brakes or get some chocks. You can also try "impacting" it by rocking the car with the bar+pipe against the ground. Just make sure the car can't roll away once its free. I sent a breaker bar though a rad like that once!
  5. Make sure both surfaces are clean and flat. A good set of precision ground stones or diamond hones can is the best way to see if the deck/head are smooth, and a good precision straight edge and a flash light to see if its flat. When a head gasket is tightened on an aluminum head/block, the fire rings dig into the surface. You have to get that section back to being smooth and flat. If you have a good set of precision ground stones, you can blue that section of the head/block and run the stone over to see if its still there.
  6. This will be a rebuild/info post for the EA82 Hitachi AC compressor model MJS170. The one the mounts to the inboard of the alternator. Work in progress. Generally you can rebuild a compressor that leaks, but functions. I have great luck getting R134a converted compressors out of junkers. Generally the system leaks, the PO replaces the hose orings and oil, and charges with R134a. The issue is the factory orings in the compressor are not rated for PAG oil, so they fail. You can grab the compressor, replace the seals for ~$20, and have a working compressor! Also I recommend rebuilding any compressor you currently have if it works and is quiet. The oil wears out over time, as to the seals, and a bit of preventive maintenance will make it last the life of the car. This was a factory 250K mile compressor. Second rebuild, don't know what caused that bit on corrosion to push the gasket. Look at the bores though, like factory hone still! Seal info: >Rear plate to case: ID: 118 mm CS: 2.5 mm >Outer valve body: ID: 107.5 mm CS: 2 mm >Inner Valve body: ID: 63 mm CS: 2 mm >Pass though tube: ID: 12 mm CS: 2 mm >Front plate to case Paper ID: 107 mm OD: 116.5 mm Bearings: >Clutch ID: 40 mm OD: 62 mm Depth 24 mm If you order a shaft seal these models cross reference: MJS170 MJS130 A5000 Make sure you get both parts of the shaft seal. Some kits only contain the fixed seal and snap ring. You want the complete kit the fixed seal, snap ring, and the spring loaded thrust seal. You should only replace them in pairs, replacing just the shaft seal can cause the thrust seal to wear out quickly. The rebuilt kit I use. https://www.polarbearinc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=459&ParentCat=23 Shaft seal. https://www.polarbearinc.com/index.cfm/product/371/ss-0721.htm Also my #1 recommendation is to upgrade the filter dryer. The factory ones aren't great, and the aftermarket ones are worst. I took the stock dryer, cut the dryer off and braze the bottom closed, so it is just a sight glass. Then take the line that runs from the dryer to the firewall to a hose shop. Get them to install female 3/8 SAE flares on to it. I run a 8 cubic inch drier.
  7. Pretty sure they need a new/used replacement, not locating it on the car. Are you sure the sender is bad, and not just the wires? Mine had a wire go bad where it goes though the tank. I stripped it all down, used some new fuel safe wires and epoxy to reseal it.
  8. R-152a is in-between R-134a and R-12 in pressure ranges, HC-12a is lower than even R-12, so it helps with old worn out compressors. R-152a is EXTREMELY toxic when burned, and is just as flammable as HC-12a. So the only improvement is you don't have to mix it.
  9. Forgot to mention, it is insanely cold now. HC-12a has a lower head pressure, so it's easier on the worn out compressor than R12 or especially 134a. I have sub 50* air out the vents on a 90-100* day.
  10. So after suffering though trying to find the leak in my system, and even harder tracking down R-12, I took the advice of a friend and converted the system to "HC-12a" Now you can't get HC-12a in the states because it's flammable/dangerous, but now almost every refrigerant is flammable. HC-12a is about 90/10 Propane/Butane, so I used normal propane gas and "Coleman" gas which is 80/20 butane propane. Called a AC guy to recover the R-12. Then held good vaccum for about an hour to get the any water or gas out. Weighted them going in with a kitchen scale to get the right ratio. You only full the system to 40% of the R-12 weight, and never exceed 80 psi on the lo pressure. The sight glass will be cloudy. I used a adapter from 1LB tank to 1/4 NPT and a 1/2 acme to 1/4 NPT off a old 134A adapter to hook the bottles to the system. Could fill a few cars off one set. While a leak is dangerous due to flames/explosions, it's way way better for the environment. Realistically if you ever needed to work on the system you could just slowly vent it and burn the gas off. Would be perfectly safe and ok for the ozone. Also legal.
  11. It should be higher than that at idle. I would say you need an oil pump oring or thicker oil because the pump is worn out. You aren't getting enough oil to the lifters to get them pumped up. The oil pump o-ring "mickey mouse seal" is a super common weak point on these engines. It isn't hard to change if you can do a timing belt job.
  12. That sounds like a lifter. Rod knock gets worst under load. Lifters are loud when cold, stays the same with rpm/load, and can go way when warm. Try doing an oil change. If you're using -30, try upping to a -40 oil. I run Rotella T6 15W-40, but thats hard to get right now.
  13. So every time it drops into the low 60s/50s my brake fluid light comes on. The level is fine, and it goes out after driving for a bit. Bad float/sensor maybe?
  14. So I ended up finding some 4cylinder, 2wd, no ac 4running springs. They are perfect. I'm almost level front and rear, and have good travel. The combo of the new struts/springs front and rear is 2.5 inch's of lift with no spacers. Only issue is the rear springs a still a little stiff. The rear hopefully will settle a bit as it's about half inch higher than the front. Also if I lift a rear up, the front will pick a tire about an inch from the bump stop, so they are still a tiny bit too stiff. I am using the 4runner springs on pro comp 4runner struts. I had to drill out the stock upper spring mount to fit the new strut, and flip it upside down for the new spring. All of the spring Mount needed was a little notch to fit the upper strut mount. This is actually a good improvement because It gives you about two extra inches of spring length.
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