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KZCool

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About KZCool

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Hope, IN
  • Biography
    I live for the outdoors and all the adventures!
  • Vehicles
    2010 Forester 5MT
  1. Yeah, one of my switches had failed and I tightened the sensor too much cracking the head......right after I put the motor back in from changing the head gaskets. I had to tap threads deeper and put in an adapter pipe that the sensor could screw into. Horrible design having the sensor hole an extrusion off of the side of the head. It may have actually been the duty solenoid then if I'm still getting the code and the surging.
  2. So the oil pressure sensors verify that the duty solenoids are working correctly? they aren't the sending units for the on/off signal of the solenoid?
  3. I've noticed a very annoying thing lately. When I'm driving on the highway in 5th gear (MT) and apply full throttle I can feel the power increase from the VVL, but I notice that sometimes it pulses and doesn't want to apply smoothly. This causes a slight power surging and if I slowly let off the gas I feel a point that actually accelerates better with less throttle. Could this be a bad VVL solenoid, or something with the fuel mixture? Im at a loss. It seems like bad engineering to use two separate oil pressure sensors for the VVL system since oil pressures could be different on the two sides of the engine, so the VVL system doesn't engage at the same time.
  4. I highly recommend the fluid drain/fill. I have a 99 obw with 297k and it was having hard shift, binding, over all clunky trans and after it was so much better! Not really related but if you have high miles I would do it for longevity.
  5. Damn. Wish I had thought about a thorough flush with cheap stuff before I dropped 60 bucks worth of good stuff into it haha. I did that with my old 99 suby and it had a great effect on it. I'm thinking it's a bent shift fork or something and not syncros. As the fluid had moved around I dont get the grind from a fast shift anymore. It's doable as is and definitely not worth splitting the trans.
  6. I recently purchased a 2010 Forester with 95K miles and a manual transmission. The fourth gear would grind a bit when shifting fast, and I would have to make sure that the shifter was pulled hard all the way back to get it into gear. If I didn't the gear wouldn't engage and the gear would grind like it was sitting on top of the input shaft. I changed the fluid and it was black coming out. I put in 3 quarts Redline lightweight Shockproof and the rest Motul 300 75w-90 and it got rid of the grind. I do still have to really make sure 4th gear is engaged though. Could this be a worn shift linkage or bushing to replace that will tighten up the spacing or slack in shifting?
  7. I went through the grounds, and. Decided to take it for a long haul on the interstate. It seemed to have helped. Im hoping the computer just had to learn more about the car since it's a new one to this car, and my knock sensor only had one wire but the leads are fine on it. I ended up putting a thick rubber gasket under it and running a wire under the gasket to on to to ground the sensor haha.
  8. Which connections do you suggest? The battery is pretty old, but is strong. Ill also go get the OBD checked. When the car is first started it runs fine. When it does happen its almost always after a few miles. Makes me think faulty sensor somewhere the degrades from the heat.
  9. I have a 99 OBS with 290K miles and AT. The car has been running great as I take good care of it. Then one day after adding oil the CEL came on with "Faulty Knock Sensor". It would randomly retard the timing, then run normally. It's a recently new sensor but I changed it with a cheapo anyway. Same thing, so I tried a different one. Swapped the ECM, sea foamed the engine, new spark plugs, oil change, new pcv valve, adjusted my valves, even moved the knock sensor to the hole back and to the right of the original knock spot. There's no CEL now but it will still randomly go into limp mode and then come out of it strong, and then lose some of that extra power. I really want to get this fixed for sentimental reasons and because the engine is still very strong.
  10. Did you ever get this figured out? I'm having kind of a similar problem with my 99 OBS AT. It seems to be common from my searches but no one finishes their forums with solutions lol
  11. Hey man, I was wondering if you ever figured it out. I have a 99 OBS AT. I've been having a similar issue but probably not the same reason. No time belt break, just suddenly threw a knock sensor code on a newer sensor. Replaced it with two other sensors and still giving me no power on low end until randomly after some hiway driving, but now no code. I've looked at basically everything I can thing of. I've got 290 k miles on this beast and I want to see that big 300! Lol
  12. You're awesome man!!! Thanks so much. I was getting worried for a while that it was a no go but it sounds super simple.
  13. sorry, I meant ej22 to ej251 or 253 without the vvt since its useless. I want to put a hitch on mine but after driving through Colorado with it loaded down, moving west, I realized how little towing power the 2.2 has; 40 mph in a 70 is no fun . I know altitude has a part to play but the bigger motor would be nice if it was about the same price or cheaper and I've heard they are easier to find. I'm still really hoping for a fixable motor though. This ej22 is approaching 300k and still on the original head gaskets. That'll never happen with the 2.5
  14. thanks a lot guys. I'll do a leak down test. Here's hoping for bad valve seals but I burn a quart every 800 miles on the interstate so i doubt it . Have either of you guys done this swap? I've noticed guys usually go from the 2.5 to the 2.2. Why? is it a noticeable power gain from the 2.2 to 2.5?
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