KZCool
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Everything posted by KZCool
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I found it and the cruise fuse. Both are fine. I almost want to replace the clock spring just so I can rule it out lol. the cruise has been a headache for a long time now -
is there a fuse? I knew about the relay but where is the horn fuse located?
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I have a 99 obs AT and when I first got it the cruise control worked when I jiggled the selector switch, it then would turn itself off after a month of having it, then a couple months later nothing. But I didn't mind. I saw the resistance through the steering column was a little higher than stock but just went without. Now my horn went out as well and it isn't the relay. I know a lot of people say clock spring or roll connector but are these the same things and if so, are they for more than just the air bag as I have been led to believe? Any help would be greatly appreciated as I can't pass inspection without the horn.
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So this wouldn't work for a '99? Mine never wants to downshift unless I come to almost a complete stop and sometimes when I give it gas to pass. Could be a different problem altogether though.
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I did a couple different things. Checked the voltages, going in was fine but it was below 10 coming out, and checked the ohms. The switch itself had .3 ohms about, and after the clock spring 1.7 to 2.3 ohms. I wouldn't think that would be a big issue though.
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thanks a lot. I'll check that now.
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I checked the horn and all that as I drove (felt like an idiot blaring the horn down the highway) and it is all good. I'll have to check the wiring under the steering column for continuity. How do I check the diodes and where are they?
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I tested the knock sensor warm and it was erratic. Started at 150 and went down as it cooled. Also I checked the codes again since I replaced the ecm and O2 sensor. no more lean condition, just knock sensor. So I'm really leaning toward that. How do I go about checking timing or even changing it since everything is controlled by the ECM? I know the knock sensor highly influences it and that is another nail in that coffin.
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Iv'e had my AT 99 outback sport for a year now and when I first got it I had to jiggle the cruise control set lever to get it to set. After a while it would just shut itself off and not come back on. Increasingly it didn't want to come on, and now wont come on at all. I've checked the vacuum hose and its fine, taken the lever out and took it apart to clean the contact points, replaced the main CC switch, and checked to make sure the plastic plunger of the break switch was still there and all the parts are fine. I'll be checking the continuity of the actuator and break switch tomorrow but i would really like some input as to if anyone has dealt with this before. I have a 1,700 mile trip this thursday and CC would make it soooo much better!
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There was no oil on the boots, and I dont think it would be a weak coil since it only happens at a certain point of the throttle opening. If you think it could be though I'll swap it out. I did pull my knock sensor and it tested good cool and wasn't cracked, but I need to test it when the problem is happening.
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So I've replaced the fuel filter, MAF sensor, TP sensor, camshaft sensor, O2 sensor, and I'm waiting on a new ECM. I'm really hoping its the ECM as it still cuts all acceleration after a certain point of applying the gas pedal. I did notice it runs super smooth and awesome now after all this other than this one intermittent problem. When I pulled the carpet back in front of the ECM it was wet as hell under there. Wasn't sure if maybe it could cause a short from all the moister. Also it seems like when it bogs down and goes lean it doesn't want to down shift at the normal throttle points. Any thoughts would be awesome as I plan on leaving thursday to drive across the country and the ECM doesn't come in till tuesday. If this doesn't fix it I'm grounded till I can figure it out
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Thanks, I'll go ahead and swap it out for a new one. 20 bucks or so, so no biggie there. I'm really leaning toward TB posit. sensor now though. the acceleration always kicks in and out at the same point when giving or letting off the gas no matter the rpms or gear. The most expensive of the parts, go figure. But a buddy of mine owns a subaru repair and used car lot so I'll "borrow" one and see what happens
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Thanks. I rented the fp tester from autozone so I had to take it back. 150! but luckily I got it back and the guy that sold me the car said he just changed the knock sensor but it does have small traces of rust on it so who knows. I figure I'll get the tester back and check it with the regulator hose pulled, if that doesn't work I'll replace the O2 sensor, then knock then throttle position sensor as it really bogs down when its not wanting to downshift like normal. Thanks for the tip on pulling the hose.
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Hey all. I have a 99 impreza outback with 260k; just breaking her in . I was on the interstate the other day and i noticed i was slowing down a little, so I gave it more gas and it seemed to bog down and lose power i really had to stomp the gas to get her to go, even when it down shifted i could feel the lack of power. But when I let off the gas a bit i felt the acceleration come back noticeably. This went on till I got home form time to time. It didn't do it for a couple days then did it again on the hiway, and when I was coming back through town. It seems to happen when it warms up or has been running for a while. There is also a hesitation of downshifting now if not coming to a complete stop or giving it gas to pass someone. I checked the fuel pressure pre-regulator and it was 35, would raise to 40ish when given gas but would drop back to 35 even with throttle open. I replaced the MAF sensor, but it was a cheap one and my car ran horrible with it so I'm guessing mine is ok, unless someone thinks I should buy another one and try it. I have new plugs, wires, fuelfilter (although I think it may be flowing backwards), checked for vacuum leaks (broke the port on the purge solenoid that runs to the intake manifold), and checked to make sure the knock sensor wasn't cracked or anything. Any help with this would be very helpful as I have a 1700 mile trip coming up in three weeks!
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But I'd still rather it be a more direct shot into the TB, so I drew this up. I want to do this. I read that the purpose of the torque box is to store air for when the TB first opens. Well not much need for that if the system is so short and the box on mine would serve the same purpose anyway.
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Here we go! Just add the MAF inline!
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I really wanted to do that too but after some research learned to keep the torque box for sure! It makes a big difference in torque. But I wonder if it would be possible to keep it and still have room to put the maf after and a panel filter under the scoop. Only when its not raining thought lol.
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Hey all. I have been looking at upgrading my intake and would love to try to go with a Ganza style pipe. Problem is I have a MAF sensor on my 99 OBS. I currently have a Spectre drop in filter and second filter in my torque box so it doesnt have an air leak. Does anyone know if I could fab something up to locate the MAF between the torque box and TB? I wasn't sure if this would interfere with anything or cause the MAF to get too dirty.
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All the hoses are connected, and thanks for the heads up on the CEL. I had it fixed for a bit since the guy before me gutted the cat, but adding one of the little spacers only turned it off for a couple hundred miles. Anyone know if theres a perminant way to turn it off. I dont havbe any codes for the ropugh idle, but I adjusted the tps the other day and its made a world of a difference. Luckily I have the 4 wire TPS so if what I read is right the engine won't re-learn and adjust the idol again.
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*Bump. Also now my . cruise control doesnt work again. It tried to work for a sec the other day and shut itself back off, thinking and hoping they are connected somehow
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I might just be throwing answers at this thing, but i noticed that as I come to a stop I have to break harder at the lower speed when it shifts down, I also read that a bad vehicle speed sensor can make breaking more difficult and controls some of the fuel/air mixture. However my speedometer works just fine. Any thoughts?
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Thats what I thought it was at first too. I have already cleaned it and the throttle body out really well though. I gotta wait to order wires till I get paid since I'm getting NGK, but I thought about cleaning the egr valve. I couldnt find it on my engine but the autoparts store says that I have one. Anyone know where it would be on a ej223 engine?
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Did the plugs and its a little better. I'll get the wires tomorrow. The coil packs don't usually go out do they?
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the guy I bought it from said he just changed the knock sensor but I dont know. And thetre are no codes, and i n this case I wish there were. It would at least give me a starting point. and I paid closer attention to the tach, it pauses at 1k for a sec then drops rapidly to about 500 to 400.
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I bought a 99 obs about three months ago and its been giving me some funny problems. the cars got 260k miles and im looking to get another 100k at least. Luckily its the 2.2l but when it warms up it feels like it wants to stall at idle. drives great and idles fine at first, but after sitting for maybe 7 seconds the rpms drop from about 500 to between 250 and 300. The car and engine shake really bad and it sounds like its running on two cylinders. I recently replaced the spark plugs with bosch platinums but didnt happen to check the gapping. also the wires were changed at about 160k miles but they are not oem. checked all the hoses I could see and didnt find any holes or cracks and just adjusted my throttle cables which fixed my cruise control issue but still no luck on this darn idle. any pointers would be great! also i dont know if it could be related but I put a cai on it and didnt want to run at all. Maybe faulty MAF sensor?