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LoyaleSmith

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  1. LoyaleSmith
    Here's my digital snow camo '90 Loyale(I call it the war wagon) It leaves people in neck braces all over town, if you know what I mean. I got it 4 years ago as a pretty worn out car, before I could legally drive. I love looking back and remembering when she didn't start, didn't have 4 matching wheels/tires, didn't pass DEQ or have even remotely current tags, etc. I will NEVER sell or trade this, its so much more than your average car to me. It's a one of a kind landmark in Subaru's history, and it has character that you just cant beat.. You could tell me its ugly a million times, and I'd smile a million and one. I love hearing what people have to say, its the best part. Pardon the phone quality pics, hopefully they work(never really posted pics before)
  2. LoyaleSmith
    Yeah, im not 100% sure. The preventative measures would need to be looked into. You could probably spray the exhaust with some hefty coating/anti rust agent, but it'd need to be super heat resistant. Maybe see if you could wrap the exhaust..? I know there are wraps people use for headers, adn big intercooler piping, etc. You just need to to some good ol subie detective work. Worst case scenario your exhaust is about to fall apart from what it sounds like, and you should disconnect the exhaust at the rear side of the cat. Seems pretty sketch, some would probably turn purple at this suggestion. I drove with no exhaust after the cat for a few days once.. funny how 90 horsepower can sound like a race car. Hahahaha. Best of luck.
  3. LoyaleSmith
    I have some experience with this.. enough to give ya some answers. My '90 loyale currently runs stock exhaust(with cat, and subaru factory resonator)right up to where the muffler ought to be. From that point back there is just some pipe(DIY) to get the end of the exhaust out from under the car. I personally think the throttle is noticeably more responsive, but then again, my muffler and the pipe near it were VERY leaky, and the muffler seemed pretty restrictive to me. As for sound, it will change your car's tone and volume quite a bit. My car isn't obnoxious(in my opinion the sound amazing), but it is far more audible now, and the boxer rumble is pretty thick. Inside the car, the sound is very quiet to me. What's on the outside is pretty darned loud, but the trip isnt ruined because of all the screaming exhaust action. I will say, if you're gonna get into the 3500+ rpm range, most people in the neighborhood will know. Backpressure is decreased, my car "pops" nonstop during deceleration(in gear foot off gas pedal)If you're into pretty quiet cars, do not do this. I sometimes feel like people will wake up when I drive away in the late hours. I have seen loyales with the straight pipe you speak of, and i am not a fan. The backpressure issue is probably a negative effect at that point. The sound is incredibly raspy, and sort of puts off an "unmuffled ford ranger" vibe if you ask me. It's dumb. If you have to pass an inspection, or emissions test, it will fail. etc, etc, etc, the cons are pretty heavy with running just pipe. I think you would be pleased if you drove the car with stock exhaust and muffler deleted. As long as you're not afraid of a little subie rumble. Its a better place to start, is what i have to say. maybe find a non-rusty exhaust in a parts yard or here on the forum, and take some aggressive preventative measures for rust.
  4. LoyaleSmith
    Thank you for the replies guys. I know the car fairly well.. I definitely check fluids religiously anyways so i'll be on top of that. As far as "has the car been womped on with no oil" i cant entirely say, i've put a few thousand responsible miles on her, but thats out of 280k on the car, and an unknown number on the motor. I know there's less than 200k on the current ea82 though. One of my biggest concerns is the death rattle it has. Not exhaust heat shields, or any of that. Personally i think it may be the cat, as the sound seems to be generated from that area. Im no master though, i feel it may be an internal sound, or tranny related, as that sits just above the cat. Happens under load, pretty bad when going up hill, but happens constantly. Also pretty bad when decelerating(in gear off throttle). I dont know. :/ i'll figure it out someday. I'm not willing to get rid of the car. Sounds ridiculous but i'm 18 years old and this car is staying with me until it gets completely destroyed or stolen. Its my pride and joy, and has taught me everything i know about cars. Dreams include an ej22t, 5 lug swap, etc. The works. Look at my profile pic, its a digi-snow camo wagon on white desert rats.. need i say more? the local chiropractor practically wants to sponsor me, I turn so many heads. no scrapping or selling for sure. Appreciate the replies greatly guys. Keep em comin if you have more thoughts.
  5. LoyaleSmith
    I just want some opinions here, my concern is through the roof. I am considering taking my 1990 Loyale wagon on a trip from Portland, Oregon to Gallipolis, Ohio, which is on the eastern side of the state. The trip is about 2600 miles, beginning on I-84, then moving onto I-80 and I-74. I'm a stranger to drives this far but if I do it, i'm not worried about lack of driving skill or anything like that. I'd maybe cruise a bit less than 500 miles a day until i got there. Who knows. What I AM worried about is ye olde ea82. Its a tough old gal, but it has given me trouble here and there, no surprises. I have a bit of an oil leak on the passenger side cam tower, which became pretty noticeable after cleaning the block. It's not enough so that I need to dump more oil in, in fact, I haven't noticed any oil loss whatsoever. What DOES go down the drain is some coolant, and I dont really know where it goes. Its not an absurd amount but, like i say, noticeable. The car drives like a champ for what it is, a yellow bellied ea82. However, I would kinda be up spoob creek with half a paddle if it blew up on the drive. I know my way around the engine bay no doubt, but thats not gonna save me if i throw a rod bearing or really cream the cam tower/head. Does anyone have experience with a trip like this in a "seasoned" ea82, or some insight they can give me? I would appreciate it greatly. I dont have much cash to save myself in the event of a mass failure. Is it worth trying? Car is a '90 Loyale wagon, optional 4wd, 5spd tranny. Thanks in advance guys. The car has been running pretty solid lately, it has had an electrical problem before but its fixed now. If spoob hits the fan, what kind of costs(jagged, rough estimates) can i expect to get this thing rebuilt? Any parts you see as impending doom-bringers?
  6. LoyaleSmith
    The car is a 1990 Loyale wagon w/ part time 4WD. 2 struts up front, 2 coilover shocks in the rear. I am aware I technically posted in the wrong category btw. Aftermarket springs aren't common whatsoever on the EA series cars like mine. I figured the legacy/impreza folks would be more likely to have answers/knowledge.
  7. LoyaleSmith
    Hey guys, just wanted to see if anyone had input or experience regarding this bearing/washer combo I came across whilst googling. I have a car with cheap coil sleeves installed on stock struts, and I'm doing a bit of troubleshooting. By the way, I am aware that that last sentence contains atrocious words(cheap coil sleeves, stock struts).. Words that only a young man with a microscopic budget would utter. Try to get past that before you bust the flamethrower out. SO, the car in question has a pretty bad case of "coil-bind" or "spring bind." That's not really a common term, so if you haven't heard of it, here's what I know: we're obviously talking about a macpherson strut setup here, so the strut and spring turn when the steering wheel turns. My springs get hung up somehow, if you get what I mean. There is tension in the steering wheel, particularly when stopped and turning the wheel. The tension builds and "pops," which is audible both inside and outside the car, and can be felt in the steering wheel. The "binding" doesn't just happen when stopped, so say you come to a stop and turn the car 90 degrees to the right. The springs don't want to rotate smoothly, and they make a little pop noise as you crank the wheel. The car now pulls to the right, as the spring doesn't want to rotate back to it's normal position after the turn is complete. They are square end springs, I feel as if the issue is pretty clear(in my head) and the base of the spring is just not rotating properly, particularly since it's under so much pressure. These roller thrust bearings I came across seem like they could be a solution. If not a complete fix, maybe they would "reduce the symptoms" a bit. Has anyone seen this in action on a car, or really anything in real life? I think the consensus will be that I should buy some and try it out, but I just wondered if any of you physics-inclined folks would have valuable input. I would appreciate it, and do flame on if you feel it is necessary. Here are two links that are relevant: Eibach Torsion Release Bearings TRB250 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing QA1 Coil-Over Shock Thrust Bearing Kits 7888-109 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing Thanks in advance, Subaru Gods.
  8. LoyaleSmith
    ....anyone? am i being dumb here?
  9. LoyaleSmith
    This stuff can be confusing as heck at first... Not sure if your car is the same setup as mine(there are some differences between years), but I own a 90 Loyale and successfully checked codes recently. On mine, there are two connectors inside the engine bay, right on the drivers side firewall. One is green, and the other is white. They ought to be unplugged when you find them. You need to plug the green one in to get codes to flash. The flash occurs under the steering wheel, directly from an LED light on the ecu. You have to take off the panel under the steering wheel to see it. Takes some figuring out. Let me know if that helps
  10. LoyaleSmith
    Does anyone know where an RX front lip can be obtained? or a "replica"/something aftermarket? I know there are plenty of DIY lips for imprezas and legacies, but how about for an ea82? pics?
  11. LoyaleSmith
    I have that manual actually. I'm studying the diagram closely but.. Well you get the idea. I don't understand simple electronics I guess. I can't really properly read the diagram. May post pics soon
  12. LoyaleSmith
    grr.. I cant find wiring diagrams or anything for this.
  13. LoyaleSmith
    nope, unfortunately not. the manual window was busted on it a long time ago though. part of why i have the current door
  14. LoyaleSmith
    Cougar- your reply is appreciated. Yours as well miles, but money is the issue here as usual and I'd rather buy wire than a window track. So, I can use the current switch I have, which is a rocker as you described. The problem is as I said, I am terrible with this stuff.. You may have to help me a bit more when it comes to running wire. Looking at the switch now.
  15. LoyaleSmith
    So, here is the situation: My drivers side door was pulled from a car with power windows/locks, but my Loyale has manual windows and locks. The window obviously doesnt work, and I want to fix that.. Even if it is a "jimmy rig." I will shell out a few bucks for a manual door if i cant figure out something good. Bear with me here because I know jack squat about electronics/wiring. I want to know, is there a way to wire the window switch up to my battery? The back of the switch is a mess, it has 5 or 6 posts with a wire running to another switch, and some 10 ohm resistors(i think) running between posts. I was thinking it would be a bit more simple. Any way to just power the window motor itself? i dont really see how i could control up/down that way though. Secondly, can i just go pull a few things off of a door at pick n pull, such as the manual handle, and whatever else i need? I am starting to feel dumb here but i'm a bit stumped and its getting awfully warm out to have a stuck window. I wanna feel the breeze this summer. If i should post pics, let me know. Your help is greatly appreciated, if you have ever dealt with something like this before. An idea is an idea so throw em out there if you got em, fellas! - Walker
  16. LoyaleSmith
    How is everybody doing out there? any successful meets? i have a working ea82.. for now
  17. LoyaleSmith
    HERE IS WHAT HAPPENED. Yesterday, I discovered the green connector for CEL testing has been plugged in forever. i unplugged it, and proceeded to do what I know, in order to read the check engine light. The oxygen monitor showed codes 21(coolant temp sensor), 24(idle air control valve or circuit) and 34(EGR solenoid or circuit). It got dark, so I went inside and proceeded to look online for a replacement IACV gasket, so I can clean it. I also looked at an EGR solenoid and planned on cleaning the EGR today. When I went to start my car this morning, it fired but died immediately, and I knew something was wrong. One more start and die, and without pumping the throttle or having it wide open, the car just cranked and didnt fire. What the heck? So I read the codes again, and nothing had changed. As far as I know the only thing I did was make a red light blink, so i'm a little confused. Is it possible that the car is acting up because the ECU "didnt know" about the bad egr and iacv until i put it in test mode? before having gone inside last night i started the car, and it RAN FINE. Again, what the heck? Does anyone have any ideas? car has always had idle issues, and at one point an ignition coil that arced to the negative ground. ask me questions and i will answer, but so far, thats what i got. Thank you guys in advance. -walker
  18. LoyaleSmith
    the frustration ended and i figured it out.. felt stupid. never good to make assumptions
  19. LoyaleSmith
    How in the bloody hell do I uncover the rear strut towers in my 90 wagon? am trying to remove struts and put on coil sleeves. where the codswalloping codswallop is the magic button that uncovers the tops?
  20. LoyaleSmith
    I had been thinking somewhere out in the Canby or Estacada area. Or somewhere in the Mt. Hood national forest. Had been thinking, until the wagon took a dump on me. take your time..
  21. LoyaleSmith
    I'm a newbie, you guys dont wanna have to pull the 17 year old kid's loyale outta the sand.. haha. i think i qualify as the odd man out
  22. LoyaleSmith
    what everyone else said. tune your spoob up. get some gas additive and run it through your car. find someone with a timing light. replace your fuel filter. replace your PCV for 3 dollars. drive it like the gutless old beast it is.
  23. LoyaleSmith
    a coast cruise would be sweet.. if i had a place to stay! haha.
  24. LoyaleSmith
    anyone have ideas for a location? somewhere outdoorsy and accessible. preferably not close to a residential/noise sensitive area either.. i was thinking somewhere in the canby or estacada area. what do you guys think? seems like everyone who has replied is really close.
  25. LoyaleSmith
    I'm in Milwaukie, not too far out from Salem
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