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  • Gender
  • Location
    Chesapeake, VA
  • Interests
    Small engine repair, fishing, repairing my heavily used vehicles.
  • Occupation
    Small engine mechanic, full time ODU student
  • Referral
    Google, searching for info on how to repair my subaru brat
  • Biography
    This '86 Brat was my first car, taught me how to Subaru.
  • Vehicles
    1986 Brat, 2002 Legacy, 1987 Toyota RV

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Advanced Member (3/11)



  1. I have a 2005 Saab 9-2x Aero (WRX) 141,000 miles, completely stock, with the 4EAT automatic. Under full throttle, at about 70 mph, it will shift from 3rd to neutral (and redline) rather than shift to 4th. I must let off the throttle and give it a few seconds to find 4th gear when this happens. Under normal acceleration, it has no problem going from 3rd to 4th gear. I have just replaced the transmission fluid and filter (using genuine Subaru stuff) and still the problem persists. I have never driven anything with an automatic transmission before and really don't know where to start with this, it is also difficult for me to find anything on the web about this exact problem, so any help would be appreciated. Thank you!
  2. I'm thinking that I can't use the WRX axles, which are different lengths (between left and right) and also probably too short for my Legacy L Wagon. I guess I would need to get Legacy GT axle shafts and put the wrx inside splines on them.... crap. Might have to scrap this idea.
  3. Just remembered, the axle lengths would need to be different as the LSD is slightly asymmetrical...
  4. I've got a 4.11 FD ratio transmission to replace the one that's failing in my 2002 legacy. This means I need a 4.11 rear differential as mine is 3.90. I found a great deal on one that is limited slip from a JDM WRX with low miles, only thing is the axles are slightly thicker at the splines on the WRX. How hard is it to take the differential apart and use the axle-holder-spline-bearings (sorry, don't know the part name) from my old differential so my axles will fit? Is this possible?
  5. Yes fuel pressure was checked, MAP sensor replaced a while back. PROBLEM SOLVED, I think! Turns out the computer was sending the wrong codes because the throttle cable and cruise control cable were slightly misadjusted, sending codes for idle control and not picking up on the real culprit... upstream oxygen sensor! After adjusting the throttle cables and performing an idle relearn procedure (disconnecting battery, etc.), it threw codes p0130 and p0171 (I think) for o2 sensor and subsequent lean air:fuel mix. I feel like a serious moron, but am very happy to have my daily driver back. Now to get the AC leaks fixed... Thanks for the help guys.
  6. To provide closure, or lack there of: three months later I'm still having the same issue. Rebuilt and ported heads, delta 1500 cam grind, reseated valves (at The Head Shop). Now I have good compression on all cylinders, leakdown test doesn't show anything out of the ordinary, and the car is much faster... for the 1 minute that it drives properly. Code reader shows codes P1507 and P0507. IAC Valve cannot be the issue since I took a functional one off of a friend's ej251, performed idle reset procedure, and car eventually behaved the same. I downloaded FreeSSM, got a VAG COM KKL 409.1 cable, installed drivers, hooked up to the car and got an "interface test successful" message followed by "No or invalid answer from ECU/TCU" whenever I tried to use it. I've just spent a solid 6 hours trying to solve whatever issue I'm having running this software... guess I'm throwing in the towel on that. Not sure where to go from here. Maybe I should get it towed to the dealership for their diagnosis...
  7. Well compression test showed low compression on cylinder 4. Cylinder 1, 2, 3 had 210 psi, and cylinder 4 had <100 psi...
  8. Found fuel in the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator, replaced that, no cigar. Half way through compression test, cyl 1 and 3 have good compression, may have to do leakdown test. Oh jeez computer stuff sounds fun.
  9. Took the throttle body off, as I suspected it's still pretty clean. I'll give it a good spraying out anyways. Ugh it's a bad day when I have to run a compression test... At least a dropped valve would give me an excuse to do a delta cam grind lol. All grounds were sanded and cleaned when I put the engine back in.
  10. Unfortunately the bad idle stopped, it actually idles okay now but hesitation persists. I replaced the coilpack, that wasn't it. I put a vacuum gauge on it and it acted completely normal, no problem indications. I'm thinking fuel pressure?
  11. Not fixed, so it's not the NSS or MAP sensor. I'll look into the vacuum gauge thing, gonna put a new coil pack on it since the Autozone guys will let me return it if it doesn't work. Everyone says not to screw around too much with the throttle body, but that's where I'm headed.
  12. Haven't solved it yet, but the neutral safety switch came in today and I'm betting on that. Didn't think the part would be here for a few more days, so I have to finish installing differential bushing kit before I can do it :/ Hopefully I finish tonight.
  13. Cool, I ordered that neutral safety switch and MAP sensor, really hope that solves it as I need my daily driver back. After performing the "idle relearn" procedure, there are no trouble codes and the car idles properly, but still has a crazy hesitation and is not drivable.
  14. Update, problem now persists constantly, regardless of engine temp. Code reader tells me P1507 code for idle control. I've checked all vacuum lines, cleaned IACV and replaced gasket, ran some seafoam (lol), and am really not about to spend $300 on a new IAC valve when that may not be the issue. About to try the idle "relearn" procedure.
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