1986Brat
-
Posts
51 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Store
Everything posted by 1986Brat
-
That's not what I wanted to hear... now I have two subarus that need transmissions. Nothing else I could try? -
I have a 2005 Saab 9-2x Aero (WRX) 141,000 miles, completely stock, with the 4EAT automatic. Under full throttle, at about 70 mph, it will shift from 3rd to neutral (and redline) rather than shift to 4th. I must let off the throttle and give it a few seconds to find 4th gear when this happens. Under normal acceleration, it has no problem going from 3rd to 4th gear. I have just replaced the transmission fluid and filter (using genuine Subaru stuff) and still the problem persists. I have never driven anything with an automatic transmission before and really don't know where to start with this, it is also difficult for me to find anything on the web about this exact problem, so any help would be appreciated. Thank you!
-
I'm thinking that I can't use the WRX axles, which are different lengths (between left and right) and also probably too short for my Legacy L Wagon. I guess I would need to get Legacy GT axle shafts and put the wrx inside splines on them.... crap. Might have to scrap this idea.
-
Just remembered, the axle lengths would need to be different as the LSD is slightly asymmetrical...
-
I've got a 4.11 FD ratio transmission to replace the one that's failing in my 2002 legacy. This means I need a 4.11 rear differential as mine is 3.90. I found a great deal on one that is limited slip from a JDM WRX with low miles, only thing is the axles are slightly thicker at the splines on the WRX. How hard is it to take the differential apart and use the axle-holder-spline-bearings (sorry, don't know the part name) from my old differential so my axles will fit? Is this possible?
-
Yes fuel pressure was checked, MAP sensor replaced a while back. PROBLEM SOLVED, I think! Turns out the computer was sending the wrong codes because the throttle cable and cruise control cable were slightly misadjusted, sending codes for idle control and not picking up on the real culprit... upstream oxygen sensor! After adjusting the throttle cables and performing an idle relearn procedure (disconnecting battery, etc.), it threw codes p0130 and p0171 (I think) for o2 sensor and subsequent lean air:fuel mix. I feel like a serious moron, but am very happy to have my daily driver back. Now to get the AC leaks fixed... Thanks for the help guys.
-
To provide closure, or lack there of: three months later I'm still having the same issue. Rebuilt and ported heads, delta 1500 cam grind, reseated valves (at The Head Shop). Now I have good compression on all cylinders, leakdown test doesn't show anything out of the ordinary, and the car is much faster... for the 1 minute that it drives properly. Code reader shows codes P1507 and P0507. IAC Valve cannot be the issue since I took a functional one off of a friend's ej251, performed idle reset procedure, and car eventually behaved the same. I downloaded FreeSSM, got a VAG COM KKL 409.1 cable, installed drivers, hooked up to the car and got an "interface test successful" message followed by "No or invalid answer from ECU/TCU" whenever I tried to use it. I've just spent a solid 6 hours trying to solve whatever issue I'm having running this software... guess I'm throwing in the towel on that. Not sure where to go from here. Maybe I should get it towed to the dealership for their diagnosis...
-
Well compression test showed low compression on cylinder 4. Cylinder 1, 2, 3 had 210 psi, and cylinder 4 had <100 psi...
-
Found fuel in the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator, replaced that, no cigar. Half way through compression test, cyl 1 and 3 have good compression, may have to do leakdown test. Oh jeez computer stuff sounds fun.
-
Took the throttle body off, as I suspected it's still pretty clean. I'll give it a good spraying out anyways. Ugh it's a bad day when I have to run a compression test... At least a dropped valve would give me an excuse to do a delta cam grind lol. All grounds were sanded and cleaned when I put the engine back in.
-
Unfortunately the bad idle stopped, it actually idles okay now but hesitation persists. I replaced the coilpack, that wasn't it. I put a vacuum gauge on it and it acted completely normal, no problem indications. I'm thinking fuel pressure?
-
Not fixed, so it's not the NSS or MAP sensor. I'll look into the vacuum gauge thing, gonna put a new coil pack on it since the Autozone guys will let me return it if it doesn't work. Everyone says not to screw around too much with the throttle body, but that's where I'm headed.
-
Haven't solved it yet, but the neutral safety switch came in today and I'm betting on that. Didn't think the part would be here for a few more days, so I have to finish installing differential bushing kit before I can do it :/ Hopefully I finish tonight.
-
Cool, I ordered that neutral safety switch and MAP sensor, really hope that solves it as I need my daily driver back. After performing the "idle relearn" procedure, there are no trouble codes and the car idles properly, but still has a crazy hesitation and is not drivable.
-
Update, problem now persists constantly, regardless of engine temp. Code reader tells me P1507 code for idle control. I've checked all vacuum lines, cleaned IACV and replaced gasket, ran some seafoam (lol), and am really not about to spend $300 on a new IAC valve when that may not be the issue. About to try the idle "relearn" procedure.
-
Vehicle is a 2002 Subaru Legacy Wagon 2.5 SOHC 5 speed. 220,000 miles. Problem would only occur after 30+ minutes of driving on a hot day, as of last week. Now it occurs as soon as engine is warmed up. Plugs, wires, fuel filter, and a million other things have all been replaced in the past couple thousand miles. Once the car warms up, I'm getting a terribly low idle and hesitation/jolting so bad it isn't even road worthy. It's so bad that I can barely get it into 1st gear sometimes. The car won't cut out, but seems pretty close to it most of the time. At idle, it revs up just fine. Could this be a TPS issue? Injectors? Fuel pressure? I don't see why it would only do this once fully warmed, it runs fine (seems a little slower than usual) until it warms up. There is no check engine light. In the past, it threw a code for IAC valve, but it went away once I cleaned it. Thanks guys.
-
Hmm... I guess I'll just have to try it then. Sounds like an electrical headache, but it could be worth it. Not excited about frankensteining the axles, sure it would be expensive to have someone do them for me. But replacing tranny stubs sounds like an PITA as well, i read that the stubs from my dr4mt tranny won't fit in the 5MT out of a legacy/forester anyways. I've already deleted that stupid hill holder valve, the thing busted open as I was going down a hill towards an intersection, wasn't my finest moment. Well, the way it looks I'll be going with a sohc 2.5 then. I'll probably want to do something about the suspension with all that extra power, anyone have cheap ideas for that?
-
Ea81 Rear axle sourcing?
1986Brat replied to comatosellama's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
The CVJ axle fit and was definitely higher quality, fyi. Just need to order some roll pins with it. -
So I can see there is a ton of information available (relatively) about swapping the EJ22 into EA81 Brats. Especially in that page on numbchuxconversions.com, makes it seem like a piece of cake. I want to swap an EJ22 and 5MT into my Brat out of an old legacy, but for some reason the very few I have been able to find in the area have the auto transmission, and if I don't start my Brat swap soon, it just isn't going to happen. I'm working on a budget, so I'm not about to start buying parts individually, I just want the whole car. I'm wondering how much more difficult it would be to use the EJ25 SOHC, because there are loads of those for sale around here for really good deals. I know about the head gasket issues, I'd of course take care of that before putting the motor in, just finished doing it on my 02 legacy. The Brat would absolutely fly with that 2.5, so my question is why does nobody use those? Is it significantly more difficult? Does it just not fit properly? Thanks guys.
-
Ea81 Rear axle sourcing?
1986Brat replied to comatosellama's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I also need a rear axle for my 86. Rock Auto does not actually have any, for some reason they haven't removed the listing yet. I ended up ordering one from Axles Unlimited in Charlotte (for $170!!!) and after 2 weeks they sent me a front axle . I have been on the phone with them 5 times now, same thing every time "let me call our distributor," "I'll call you back," so definitely don't deal with them. CVJ Axles emailed me back, they have parts and can build one with a few days notice, but it will be about $150 shipped plus a $35 core. I'll probably give in and order one tomorrow rather than wait on these Axles Unlimited jackasses. BTW, the rear axles are symmetrical and female at both ends The front axle is male on one side, female on the other, and way bigger. -
Yes, I replaced the water pump, all pulleys, and tensioner. Somehow a water pump bolt hole stripped out at like 5 ft-lbs but a helicoil was a quick fix. Now I know you are always supposed to replace valve cover gaskets after removal, but mine looked like new so I reused them. Has anyone successfully reused these things before?
-
Yes, the marks all lined back up, was very surprised I got it right the first time. My normal half-assery is not compatible with engine work. Thank you for the help, gentlemen.
-
Well the timing belt is on, everything looked lined up, I turned the engine over like 5 times and it went smoothly. Is it safe to say I did it right?
-
Thanks guys, I'll try again in a few minutes. For some reason I figured the valves were supposed to be closed while at the correct position, this thing is a little more complicated than my lawnmowers
-
Second image.
