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Bushwick last won the day on April 1 2018

Bushwick had the most liked content!

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About Bushwick

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  • Location
    Ohio Akronish
  • Vehicles
    95' Legacy L Wagon EJ22 AWD
  1. I'll try and get the dip stick to the trans out and see where the line is at (hopefully it's still red in color). Still can't believe an o-ring can hold one in so tight despite spinning if being twisted. I had noticed something burning a bit/slight smoke the other day after stopping and idling in a parking lot before a Dr. apt. Popped the hood and couldn't tell where it was coming from. Thought maybe the valve cover was just dripping, but it smelled slightly off vs. oil burning. The delayed OD isn't too big of a deal (trans/engine has 195k IIRC) and it's strictly a winter car at this point (last year busted out several cans of foam expansion spray to seal all the rust holes and seal the gaps around the welded-in plates holding what's left of the rear strut tower together and sealed a hole forming on the other side; sealed rocker holes and another hole going inside; expansion foam is the BEST and my hatch area is 100% dry despite some nasty gaps where metal used to be; found a similar color spray can and covered any exposed foam ). IIRC, the trans fluid was done after I got it around 172k. Had been thinking maybe it was leaking a bit or something and tried to get that dip stick out, but it was like 10 below at the time so I let it be. The big thing throwing me for a loop is the creamy grease-like puddle. Never seen anything like it. I'll have to update once it's figured out. Thanks guy!
  2. It felt like actual gear oil and seemed greasy like it. Also had a hint of sulfur, which trans fluid usually doesn't smell like. The trans dip stick is practically glued into the tube atm to the point I didn't want to have my knuckles go flying if the yellow top breaks off, so can't check the level atm. And to be clear, there were only a few drops/streaks of red. The actual puddle (if you can even call it that) is tacky to the touch and cream colored like silicone vs. a wet spot of trans fluid. Was wondering if the trans cooler line (pretty sure it has one to the radiator though not 100% certain and not near car right now) might have picked something up from the radiator and circulated the coolant back to the trans and it's puking that out now? Like if the side tank on the radiator cracked internally?
  3. '95 Legacy w/ ej22 and 4eat. No CEL, no running issues (yet) other than some occasional times it holds "3" when really cold for awhile before going into OD. Had the extreme cold, now rain. Went to move the car and noticed there was an extremely cloudy substance under the front on the pavement, with some red mixed in. Feels/smells like gear oil, but it's red? Also, the cloudy patch is huge, and reminds me of silicone lube spray. No idea what it is, or where it's coming from (raining)? And if it's cloudy, I'm thinking water is mixing somewhere? Didn't see any green in the fluid. What uses a gear oil under the front?
  4. Dunno what your checks are like in CT, but here in Ohio, "IF" there is an issue getting the OBD II connector to work with their diagnostic electronics i.e. it refuses to "connect" i.e. "talk" to each other, they'll instead do a straight-up tailpipe test on the rollers at lower speeds assuming there is no CEL or signs of tampering with the cats. Lots of engines can actually pass the tail pipe portion if they are running OK. I ran into issues with a crimping backing out of an OBD II port w/o realizing at the time, and the roller test was offered which it passed. I've also seen a 306 AND a 351W, in '79 and '80 Mustangs that both came with 2.3L turbo/2.3L NA engines pass the 2.3L limits with nothing more than quad/dual cats, small cam, and carb tweaking, back when our limits were more stringent. All about how good it's running.
  5. The nozzle has the mechanical feature to shut itself off for safety reasons, like people walking away from the car. The quote I posted suggests it might interfere with nozzle's ability to self-turn off. If you start bypassing evap lines or plugging them, you might run into other issues with drivability. If that evap line is blocked completely (you'd have to plug it off) it won't be able to purge the tank of fumes when/as needed, and might start throwing a CEL, dunno how sensitive the systems are. If the vent is blocked on a healthy gas tank/car, as the fuel level drops, it'll create a vacuum. If the vacuum is strong enough, it can stall the engine. Dunno if the gas caps on these have vents or not. Not my strongest area. If it's a beater or something done as a temp. bandaid fix, it's up to you. For long-term drivability, I'd just fix it.
  6. Heat? If you have a MAPP gas tank it'd probably get it hot enough, otherwise dremel the face of the bolt head off, then try heat to help with prying. If there's room, a big ol' pulley puller might help. My rear rims (steel) were so STUCK on the hubs that a a shop with a 5 pound sledge was actually destroying the strut tower remnants vs. getting the rim off (if finally came off). For other rim, used a pulley puller to grab 2 rim holes and centered it on the center axle spline divot. Probably pre-loaded it about 30 found pounds. Put MAPP gas on the actual rim while the puller was pre-loaded, and after about 3 minutes, the rim "popped" off (disclaimer** If anyone ever tries that on their rim, be VERY careful. The force of rim coming off is similar to setting a bead and in theory could break a finger or worse. Don't pre-load the rim to where it's flexing it. LEAVE a few lugs on the threads to keep the rim from falling off. The puller might get tossed when the rim pops off the hub.) If you can get the bolt head off, and get a puller on it, and apply heat, it'll probably come off. A cutting torch would probably work. Other idea is if you can get a cut-off disc in the area, might be able to "split" the cog pulley on one side. If you can do that and get a wedge in there, I suspect it'll slip off.
  7. Gas pump shut off occurs at the nozzle, not the car Found this old link that explains what the car's shut-off does:
  8. If the vibration from the wobble was bad enough, it might have ruined a crank seal, which would allow it to puke everywhere.
  9. If it ends up being the fuel pump, might as well do a fresh fuel filter while you are at it. If it still doesn't start with a shot of starting fluid, verify the coil is still good. @280k anything can fail. If it threw a code, it might be a garbage code from the stalling/dying, so verify the fuel/spark first before trying to dive into areas that might actually be OK.
  10. Unless it's a rare oddball or hi-po variant, etc. most aren't buying 15-20 year old cars to be a money pit. Me personally, I stick with cars that cheap to maintain if older. If newer, they have warranties. And TBH, $150 gets you an entire engine in my area.... so for 1 sensor I could technically buy 2 complete engines. Makes no sense. Better off buying used.
  11. ^ If you've never driven in the snow (my aunt's ex was born/bred Texan and seeing the hills/terrain around here put him in a state of awe and snow was something he hadn't seen in person before) or driven very rarely in it, that might be another good reason for a beater as you won't have to worry about scrapes, dings, dents, sliding into something, etc.. Although AWD is fairly capable with OK tires, might want to go an extra step and get some soft tread winter tires mounted for added extra safety while you get accustomed to driving on it. Areas that snow heavily, constantly, might not stay on top of it due to costs, manpower, etc.. I now locally, when it does snow heavy, they can literally salt the roads, and within an hour, it's already covered again. Further NE of me they get heavy lake effect (as does Erie) like a couple feet and it's more rural. And be aware, a light dusting IS enough to wipe out on. If you see idiots doing 80+ on the highway and the roads are getting covered or even dusting, something as simple as a lane change too quickly can cause the rear to kick out, which most will slam on their brakes and make it worse. "Black ice" is when the roads look wet like they were just salted. If it's around 33 degrees or colder, it's always possible. Bridges, etc. are more susceptible due to the wind. Best way to tell IF the roads are actually starting to freeze up, is watch the tires of other cars. IF water it getting thrown from the tires, it's probably OK for the moment. IF you see absolutely NO water getting tossed off the tire, very solid chance the surface has frozen or is freezing. If ever in doubt, stay in the right lane and go slower. If people are ending up in the median (you'll see a LOT of it in PA) that's a clear warning to not ignore. Another thing to do is find a large, empty parking lot (preferably w/o raised curbs, lips, etc. as the snow will hide them) and practice doughnuts, kicking the rear out then getting it straight again w/o stopping, panic stops, etc. etc. until you feel comfortable (brush up as needed; cops seeing you might consider it wreckless op, so always be aware; if people stop to watch while on the phone, they might be calling). GL and sorry for the rant. If you've never been in it, it can be fun, but also dangerous.
  12. Could be an EGR issue. If you have tons of build up on the ports, etc. it can cause those symptoms. Scroll down to the "Problems with EGR" near the bottom: http://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/207 and see if that sounds similar to yours.
  13. You have an EGR system fully working now, right? If so, get a piece of tube and never look back. Engine should run as it's supposed to. Otherwise, you might get hesitation, rough idle, CEL, noises, etc.. Also, nothing worse than remembering a couple days before your tags are due something needs "fixed" and now you have to plan accordingly.
  14. ^ Yeah, I wish they'd quit salting altogether unless the roads are actually starting ice over. Sometimes wonder if salted roads actually cause more accidents as dumber people tend to drive too fast on them and then are lulled into a sense of safety and lack of common sense. As soon as they hit a light dusting, they are the ones rolled over or in the median, etc.. If people were forced to drive in the actual snow, they'd be more careful, or at least they slow down usually.
  15. If it's working, just have a solid steel tube welded up and replace the stainless. That way you won't have to worry about it in the future.