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Bushwick last won the day on April 1

Bushwick had the most liked content!

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About Bushwick

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    Ohio Akronish
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    95' Legacy L Wagon EJ22 AWD
  1. Dunno what your checks are like in CT, but here in Ohio, "IF" there is an issue getting the OBD II connector to work with their diagnostic electronics i.e. it refuses to "connect" i.e. "talk" to each other, they'll instead do a straight-up tailpipe test on the rollers at lower speeds assuming there is no CEL or signs of tampering with the cats. Lots of engines can actually pass the tail pipe portion if they are running OK. I ran into issues with a crimping backing out of an OBD II port w/o realizing at the time, and the roller test was offered which it passed. I've also seen a 306 AND a 351W, in '79 and '80 Mustangs that both came with 2.3L turbo/2.3L NA engines pass the 2.3L limits with nothing more than quad/dual cats, small cam, and carb tweaking, back when our limits were more stringent. All about how good it's running.
  2. The nozzle has the mechanical feature to shut itself off for safety reasons, like people walking away from the car. The quote I posted suggests it might interfere with nozzle's ability to self-turn off. If you start bypassing evap lines or plugging them, you might run into other issues with drivability. If that evap line is blocked completely (you'd have to plug it off) it won't be able to purge the tank of fumes when/as needed, and might start throwing a CEL, dunno how sensitive the systems are. If the vent is blocked on a healthy gas tank/car, as the fuel level drops, it'll create a vacuum. If the vacuum is strong enough, it can stall the engine. Dunno if the gas caps on these have vents or not. Not my strongest area. If it's a beater or something done as a temp. bandaid fix, it's up to you. For long-term drivability, I'd just fix it.
  3. Heat? If you have a MAPP gas tank it'd probably get it hot enough, otherwise dremel the face of the bolt head off, then try heat to help with prying. If there's room, a big ol' pulley puller might help. My rear rims (steel) were so STUCK on the hubs that a a shop with a 5 pound sledge was actually destroying the strut tower remnants vs. getting the rim off (if finally came off). For other rim, used a pulley puller to grab 2 rim holes and centered it on the center axle spline divot. Probably pre-loaded it about 30 found pounds. Put MAPP gas on the actual rim while the puller was pre-loaded, and after about 3 minutes, the rim "popped" off (disclaimer** If anyone ever tries that on their rim, be VERY careful. The force of rim coming off is similar to setting a bead and in theory could break a finger or worse. Don't pre-load the rim to where it's flexing it. LEAVE a few lugs on the threads to keep the rim from falling off. The puller might get tossed when the rim pops off the hub.) If you can get the bolt head off, and get a puller on it, and apply heat, it'll probably come off. A cutting torch would probably work. Other idea is if you can get a cut-off disc in the area, might be able to "split" the cog pulley on one side. If you can do that and get a wedge in there, I suspect it'll slip off.
  4. Gas pump shut off occurs at the nozzle, not the car Found this old link that explains what the car's shut-off does:
  5. If the vibration from the wobble was bad enough, it might have ruined a crank seal, which would allow it to puke everywhere.
  6. If it ends up being the fuel pump, might as well do a fresh fuel filter while you are at it. If it still doesn't start with a shot of starting fluid, verify the coil is still good. @280k anything can fail. If it threw a code, it might be a garbage code from the stalling/dying, so verify the fuel/spark first before trying to dive into areas that might actually be OK.
  7. Unless it's a rare oddball or hi-po variant, etc. most aren't buying 15-20 year old cars to be a money pit. Me personally, I stick with cars that cheap to maintain if older. If newer, they have warranties. And TBH, $150 gets you an entire engine in my area.... so for 1 sensor I could technically buy 2 complete engines. Makes no sense. Better off buying used.
  8. ^ If you've never driven in the snow (my aunt's ex was born/bred Texan and seeing the hills/terrain around here put him in a state of awe and snow was something he hadn't seen in person before) or driven very rarely in it, that might be another good reason for a beater as you won't have to worry about scrapes, dings, dents, sliding into something, etc.. Although AWD is fairly capable with OK tires, might want to go an extra step and get some soft tread winter tires mounted for added extra safety while you get accustomed to driving on it. Areas that snow heavily, constantly, might not stay on top of it due to costs, manpower, etc.. I now locally, when it does snow heavy, they can literally salt the roads, and within an hour, it's already covered again. Further NE of me they get heavy lake effect (as does Erie) like a couple feet and it's more rural. And be aware, a light dusting IS enough to wipe out on. If you see idiots doing 80+ on the highway and the roads are getting covered or even dusting, something as simple as a lane change too quickly can cause the rear to kick out, which most will slam on their brakes and make it worse. "Black ice" is when the roads look wet like they were just salted. If it's around 33 degrees or colder, it's always possible. Bridges, etc. are more susceptible due to the wind. Best way to tell IF the roads are actually starting to freeze up, is watch the tires of other cars. IF water it getting thrown from the tires, it's probably OK for the moment. IF you see absolutely NO water getting tossed off the tire, very solid chance the surface has frozen or is freezing. If ever in doubt, stay in the right lane and go slower. If people are ending up in the median (you'll see a LOT of it in PA) that's a clear warning to not ignore. Another thing to do is find a large, empty parking lot (preferably w/o raised curbs, lips, etc. as the snow will hide them) and practice doughnuts, kicking the rear out then getting it straight again w/o stopping, panic stops, etc. etc. until you feel comfortable (brush up as needed; cops seeing you might consider it wreckless op, so always be aware; if people stop to watch while on the phone, they might be calling). GL and sorry for the rant. If you've never been in it, it can be fun, but also dangerous.
  9. Could be an EGR issue. If you have tons of build up on the ports, etc. it can cause those symptoms. Scroll down to the "Problems with EGR" near the bottom: http://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/207 and see if that sounds similar to yours.
  10. You have an EGR system fully working now, right? If so, get a piece of tube and never look back. Engine should run as it's supposed to. Otherwise, you might get hesitation, rough idle, CEL, noises, etc.. Also, nothing worse than remembering a couple days before your tags are due something needs "fixed" and now you have to plan accordingly.
  11. ^ Yeah, I wish they'd quit salting altogether unless the roads are actually starting ice over. Sometimes wonder if salted roads actually cause more accidents as dumber people tend to drive too fast on them and then are lulled into a sense of safety and lack of common sense. As soon as they hit a light dusting, they are the ones rolled over or in the median, etc.. If people were forced to drive in the actual snow, they'd be more careful, or at least they slow down usually.
  12. If it's working, just have a solid steel tube welded up and replace the stainless. That way you won't have to worry about it in the future.
  13. Your best bet is to have the one you plan to drive during the winter oil sprayed. Stuff is messy and drips, but it'll seal up pretty much anything. Some places will spray into the doors, etc. but dunno if it's worth it. Will have to avoid parking in your diveway for a bit. Usually older cars that have survived actual winter driving had it done at some point. Rubberized under coat doesn't work, so don't bother. It'll actually HIDE the rust as it's form won't give, meaning you can have a hole in the metal but the rubber is holding the shape of what used to be there. If you were doing a frame-off/rotisserie and wanted a winter vehicle out of it, then a spray on bedliner might be a good choice(in/out). Rinsing works, but you have to REALLY be on top of it, and you have to be VERY thorough. This means under the car, wheel wells, the rear cradle for the rear diff (extremely important as these rust badly) anywhere the brake/fuel lines are clumped together and snow/salt can pack, edges of each door; hood up, hit the under side metal (can avoid the deadener) edges, hit strut towers, hit the fender lips where it bolts down to the top, etc. etc.. If it were me, I'd consider buying a cheap Subaru beater with a bunch of miles that's already seen winters. Can get that one sprayed with oil, and never worry about anything while keeping the cherry cars, cherry ;)
  14. My "rewording" was sarcasm. First link states: Potential Fuel Pump Damage"There is risk for the fuel pump to become damaged if a fuel pump becomes too clogged. AGCO Automotive explains that vehicles with a clogged fuel filter will generally lose power as they are driving up a hill. This happens because the engine needs more fuel to power the vehicle up an incline. The increased amount of fuel is not received by the engine because of the blockage, so the fuel pump works even harder to get the needed fuel to the engine. This extra work is what will damage the fuel pump." I literally pulled the first 4 links that appeared on a quick search. That same link lists 100k miles being typical for in-tank style filters, which you've exceeded by 400k miles. My other post in another thread, mentioned how my mom's first new car (84' Ford Escort) went 55k miles in 4 years (with 1984 factory oil no less) w/o EVER getting an oil change due to my step dad's ignorance on oil changes, and the engine was shot and needed replaced. So yes, you can "get away" with extremes. Glad you got your money's worth out of the car, but people shouldn't be foregoing routine maintenance or planning long trips with questionable fuel pumps, neglected maintenance, etc. w/o understanding the risks, the unexpected dead car in the middle of nowhere and higher costs to tow and fix, etc. @Ravenwoods, sorry for the thread jack.
  15. I should have worded that better. You should replace the filter. stop. Your old pump is probably straining. stop. https://www.autorepairboulder.com/clogged-fuel-filter-how-to-know-its-time-for-a-new-filter/ https://www.doityourself.com/stry/symptoms-that-your-truck-may-have-a-dirty-fuel-filter https://wheelzine.com/signs-of-clogged-fuel-filter https://www.fixmyoldride.com/clogged-fuel-filter-symptoms.html Just because it stainless mesh, doesn't mean garbage won't cling to it or that it's working 100%. If you were saying your engine had 500k miles and you never changed the air filter, I'd rib you over that too People might come on and read that, then think "he went 500k miles w/o changing or replacing, so can I" then end up with a dead component at a 1/4 of the mileage because of variances.