noahkanzig

The feeling in the steering wheel is definitely a pulsing feeling. The repetition of the pulsing is woodpecker-like for sure. You can feel it pretty much through every part of the steering wheel rotation. What would this mean? I checked the ps reservoir today and saw no bubbling at cold or hot temps. I will get tires rotated in the next couple days and get back. Thanks for the input!!

I think the rotors are fine because there is no vibrations while braking. How can you check for a bent rim? I had it aligned and it helped slightly but still there:( Oh ya I checked that U joint. I couldn't feel any obvious slack or see anything loose. I am going to double check the rack bushings, that would be great if those were the problem!

Okay, I am sure you're thinking, wow another vibration thread.... Hear me out at least. On my 2006 Outback 2.5i I have replaced: 4 CV Axles 4 Struts All New Brakes New Wheels New Tires 4 Tie Rod Ends Two Ball Joints With that said, I am having a vibration at about 60 mph and above. I have had two shops check for ANY looseness in the front end with no luck. LCA bushings show no signs of leaking or tearing. My only guesses are that the aftermarket front cv axles are causing the vibration as I have heard they are capable of, although they don't make any other noise or additional vibration under acceleration. Second theory is that it has to do with the power steering. When turning the wheel something about it doesn't feel super smooth or predictable. It's hard to explain but it's not always noticeable or there at all, usually only can tell when driving slow. Are there any other things that could be causing this? The vibration IS IN THE STEERING WHEEL ONLY. Once over 60mph the wheel vibrates back and forth about an inch or less each way. No noise associated with it just the feeling. And gets worse at higher speeds. Sorry for the long post, I guess the better I explain up front the less time you waste asking questions though! Any help is appreciated!

You might want to reread your paragraph there bud. If you want people to help, they are going to need to understand what the hell your trying to say.

oh ok thats cool. Thanks

Hey everyone, I have always wondered what all these wires were but never got around to asking. So here are some pics. There are so many dead end connections! Very curious. There are a couple more that I tried to upload pictures of but it wouldn't let me because they were too big. Anybody have any idea what the purpose of these wires is/was? Thanks

Alrighty, thanks everyone. I'll let you know what happens.

Plugs and wires are new. Fuel filter is new. Fort collins is actually about 2,000 feet higher than where I am in Oregon so it should be running better. I have been messing with the idle mixture but I will continue to see if I can tune it a little better. I will try maybe medium grade fuel next time? As for the catalytic converter, that is something that I have never dealt with. How do you check it? I don't have emissions testing, so I have no problem removing the cat. Guess I could just replace it though.

So I have an 85 GL wagon with the shitty three speed automatic. I love the car and have accepted it's normal slowness. I recently drove it from Colorado to Central Oregon. It did wonderful on the drive here but over the last few days it seems to have lost some of its ability to stay up to speed. It seems that even the slightest hill pushes it down from 60 to 45 mph. This is with my foot to the floor by the way. The low end torque seems to be the same but once you get past 35 the power really drops off. I rebuilt the carb with my gaskets and accelerator pump about 2 months ago. It has been running great up until now. It still idles great and sounds good. I would like to at least find out what could be causing this over wise the drive home is going to be pretty long haha. I have checked for vacuum leaks and such. Any help is appreciated. Thanks

Sounds like your thermostat is letting too much coolant through. You should try replacing it with one that will let your engine run a little hotter or at least one that works properly. I live in colorado and it's been -10 all the way down to - 20. My EA82 heats up, slowly at those temps, but eventually. Also check your coolant level. Regardless, 30 degrees will not effect the heat on a properly working Subaru.

Yessir, haha just finished changing it actually. Did the diffs while I was at it. Fingers are hurting a little bit. 0 degrees in Fort Collins.

I am planning on changing the oil tomorrow. Running 10W-30 right now will make the change though. I will check around for leaks. Thanks guys.

I was able to get more coolant in that way. Thanks! No bubble thankfully! It also starts really rough in the cold. Besides a block heater, any suggestions that would help starting on those -10 degree days?

Hello, First time posting. I have looked around quite extensively but have not been able to pinpoint a similar topic. I have a 1985 GL wagon that runs great. Everything was working great until two days ago. I had not driven it for a week and a half because I was out of town. The temperature hear in Colorado was below 20 and as low as -10 for most of this time. Now once it gets warmed up to operating temp the heater does not work. The hoses going into the heater core are not particularly warm and when I squeeze them there doesn't seem to be anything in them. It will also start to over heat but then go back to normal temp occasionally. I checked coolant level and filled to maximum. Has anyone else experienced this or have any insight? I plan on getting a block heater soon but have a feeling that won't change much except for ease of starting. Any help is appreciated. Thanks, Noah.