BlackLight
-
Posts
11 -
Joined
-
Last visited
BlackLight's Achievements
Member (2/11)
0
Reputation
-
I'm checking with the auction house. If there arn't any cartridges, I probably won't buy it. Feels a bit to much hunting for Subaru GameBoy cartridges...
-
Thanks. But can I read the ECU's different variables while engine is running, or is this just a huge, expensive trouble code reader that I can manage without?
-
Hi all. I have an opportunity to buy a "Select monitor" reader at an auction here in Sweden. Pic: tovek.se/images/auctions/431/100705/medium_1.jpg Q: Is it worth it? It has no bids yet, starting at about 30 USD? Q2: What can one do with it? //Magnus
-
Oh, and maybe this clear things up about the clutch. About the engine problem. As the distributor seem sensitive to moisture, I haven't been able to start it and make further tests. However, as logic tests seem fruitless, I have to shoot into the dark in order to find anything that makes the problem better or worse, and thereafter act. The car's engine EF10 doesn't have a PCV valve as most of the other Subaru's of it's time. It has a reed valve in the valve rocker cover which is incorporated with an oil separator, due to the fact that the cover doesn't have an inner splash plate to separate the oil from the gases and atmosphere inside the engine. Just a long shot, but what would happen if this reed valve failed? The hose from the rocker cover goes directly to the dirty side of the air cleaner, and I suppose that Subaru intended to incorporate a PCV valve instead of the current solution, though I have no idea on how to fix this without major crafting on the cover itself. Ideas? Oh, and happy new year! //Magnus.
-
Well, today I disabled the EGR-valve by removing and plugging up it's vacuum hose. It didn't do anything for the engine running characteristics. :/ My plan now is just to add some gearbox fluid, and then drive home (55 metric miles), and then I'll fix up an other engine and gearbox which I have laying around. I also have a spare clutch which I'm going to install as well. I have a Justy that "just" needs a new (read "used") propeller shaft, then it's good to go, so I won't be Subbie-less.
-
Hi all. I got the clutch working today! I tried to use the grease nipple, but it popped put under the pressure. :/ I used penetrating oil and rocked the lever back and forth until it returned by itself. I couldn't use the propane torch, cause the DIY-garage is also a gas station (=bad...) Anyhow, the clutch is brought back by the force of the diaphragm springs on the clutch disc cover, and the return spring outside. (Not pictured in the Paint-mock up above.) May post a movie later with me driving for a while. Haven't been able to access the engine bay as of yet, but I will soon enough.
-
Yes. Pulling the top off the carb is a dance. Removing the carb completly from the engine is another story. I'll do what you recommend, Ferox. Gonna see if I can get the car towed to a DIY garage today and start working on the clutch-problem, as this is most urgent. //Magnus.
-
Nice. I'll try and get started on the clutch ASAP today. Carb: Actually, the carb is quite easy to access, but not remove from the engine. Pic: http://img853.imageshack.us/img853/5997/sg5r.jpg To remove the carb, I'll need either 90 deg screwdrivers, or a VERY flat 12mm wrench, The latter option also means I need to drain the coolant from the engine (same as Justy carbs). Gonna remove and inspect the EGR valve and try to disable it to see wether it makes a difference or not. //Magnus.
-
Uh... I'll try and simplify this on a picture. Please don't judge my Paint-mockup... About the carb-pics: Here you go: http://imageshack.us/a/img593/4516/lyjf.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img822/6875/5zsq.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img69/3523/wsrg.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img11/2255/v4ty.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img560/7611/84n1.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img707/3569/q1t2.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img21/5369/2ugj.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img51/7379/jdt7.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img689/2685/41bc.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img843/937/xekf.jpg //Magnus
-
Hi all. Thanks for replies. I appearently don't have the pic's of the carb from the workshop manual on the web, and now I'm on my cellphones internet, so... Pic's is gonna have to wait. The pivot shaft of the clutch changes a front-back action into a right-left action, since the engine is turned on it's side. The shaft doesn't have a bearing, and thus, it rests in the bellhousing material. Because of road-salt and such, and due to the location of the shaft, it is not impropable that rust has made it's wat into the bore, and it has finally siezed. Good idea? //Magnus
-
Hi all. My name is Magnus and I live in the middle of Sweden. I have a 1985 Subaru Libero (called Columbuss in scandinavia) and I'm having two major problems with it. Most urgent one: The clutch is stuck in it's pressed stage (engine and transmission not connected). This has happend before, and it's not the wire. It's the shaft that pivots the clutch release fork inside the bellhousing that is stuck. Last time, I sloved it by drilling a hole into the bellhousing, heating with a welding torch and thereafter spraying penetratig oil into the hole as i rocked the release lever on the outside until the clutch operated to satisfaction. After that was done, I punched a grease-nipple into the hole, partly to seal the hole, but also to allow one to lube the shaft if the problem ever were to reoccur in the future. Now, the shaft is stuck again and it's negative degrees here (c-grade) which complicates things. I don't have access to a garage, just an electrical socket and my toolbox. My plan is to get a propane torch, heat the bellhousing again, rock the lever and then pump grease in through the nipple, all while the aluminium is still hot. Repeating this a couple of times should fix the problem for a time long enough to move the car to my home (about 55 metric miles). Is this a good plan? The less-urgent one: The car loses power at 30-40% gas, tugs and then hesitates up to speed. I've done most checks that many experienced mechanics have come up with, but still have some things to check: -What's the symptoms on the engines vacuum-reading if the EGR-system works improperly? -The carburetor is a Hitachi HCK-34, a side draft type, that no one ever seem to have heard of. It seems custom built to fit just this specific car model. Does anyone have experience of a carb that uses a twin-atmospheric pressure system? (Pic from workshop manual available upon request.) Thanks in advance. //Magnus.