Anisognathus

Does anybody know if there is some sort of screen in the fuel tank at the outlet hose?

I am really thinking maybe the regulator is to blame. The problems for sure have something to do with something that is right there around the pump because the problems are always either fixed or caused when I am tapping, or messing with the pump and the pump seems to run as it is supposed to, and playing with the wiring doesn't seem to have effect, and there really isn't anything else down there except for the regulator. Mine is mounted to the pump, but I'm wondered if the problem persists, if I can remove it and put in an inline regulator.

I've been trying to get it to act up today, but no luck. It seems like it only breaksdown when my wife is driving it. No hissing from the tank when filling. Just checked the trouble codes (I checked a while ago and had 34) But today it says 32, for the O2 sensor. Would this cause intermittent stumbling???

If it is the regulator what would cause it to go bad so quickly?

It was just flooded, and because of the very low temperatures, I had to let it sit for 24 hours to clear it.

Pump is good, based on the fact that is works perfectly when I connect the green plugs under the hood (trouble code test plugs). I did clean all the connections by the pump. But, I will locate and check the ECM.

And important to add is that the 'chugging' would end in the engine dying eventually. So I let it idle, listening to it almost die then idle back up to normal, then back down...etc., and I felt the pump and listened during all this and it was working steadily and only shut off after the engine died, not before.

I don't want to complicate the issue too much, but last night I added an inline fuel filter before the pump, because I was worried that something coming from the tank was ruining the fuel pumps. And the car immediately had a severe 'chugging' going on, the engine seeming to be starved of fuel, then not, then starved...etc. and tapping on the pump, as before, does not resolve it. I removed the filter, but the problem persisted. So I went to put the filter back, undoing the lines and making sure to tighten the lines(I thought maybe it was sucking air in), and it ran great, in fact I drove it for an hour and a half on the freeway and then parked it for about 10 minutes, and when I went to drive it again, it started this chugging again. Eventually I unplugged the pump, started the car, releasing the pressure, then plugged it back in and it drove perfect the 1 1/2 hours home. I'd like to believe that this is related to my original issue and that the problem has something to do with pressure. Does this make any sense?? I am completely stumped.

New off the shelf.

89 GL, intermittently shuts off, with no predictability and won't restart. I Figured out that if I tapped the fuel pump it would start up again and go fine (On a six hour trip, it would stop about every 2 hours) The pump was getting power, so I put in a new pump, and presto, no problems for about a month, then all of the sudden it started happening again, three times this week already. And still if I tap the pump mount, it starts right back up and will run fine for a couple days. During all of this time the car has been doing this thing when I fill up at the gas station, I get back in the car and start it up and it immediately dies after starting, I figure it is connected somehow. Gas seems clean, (no rust or anything visible from filter) and the wiring looks and tests good to the pump. I am at a loss right now. Can anyone help me put the puzzle together???

Now that my firing order is correct and I have spark, with clean plugs, the only thing I can think of is that it must have been something I did while trying to start it in the wrong firing order, can't think of what though would be serious enough to keep it from starting.

I never actually touched or adjusted the actual ignition timing, I just changed the cap and the wire, with the #1 spot as you said, to the backside near the firewall and going couter-clockwise 1-3-2-4

So after I realized that I had tried to start it in the incorrect firing order, I checked the plugs and they were fouled, so I put new ones in and with the correct firing order now, it still didn't start. One weird thing was that the original cap was marked 1-3-4-2 firing order, which caused me to mess up the first time. Curious why the firing order would be wrong on the cap??

I recently purchased an 89 GL, and during this first month of owning it, it has always started without a problem, but I just changed the distributor cap, and now the car will not start. I changed the cap because the wire from the coil to the cap had become corroded to the point of being stuck inside and was causing the car to shut off at random times, once or twice a day. So after installing the new cap and wire, I checked and made sure that I have spark at every plug and I do. Then I checked the ignition timing, (flywheel at TDC and piston in #1 is at its highest point, then at 20degrees advanced, the rotor is under the #1 position of the distributor cap. Then to double check the firing order I made sure that the piston of each cylinder was at its highest point at the same time that the rotor was in the right position and it turned out that I had the firing order wrong, so I corrected it, but it still will not start. Then lastly, just in case the previous owner had advanced all the wires ahead a position on the cap, I tried that and it still will not start. I checked the trouble codes and it gives me a #34... 'EGR Solenoid or Circuit', but I somehow doubt that this would cause a no start or just happen to cause it the minute I changed the cap, unless it has something to do with me trying to start it with the firing order wrong. Any help of insight on where I should head next with this would be greatly appreciated.