Speedwagon

Do you happen to know where I could get a diagram of all the vacuum lines for these?

It's only been a year and a half, but I finally fixed this! Thanks to Brainmitchtay for those pictures! That helped me isolate it, and replace the disty fron a JY one. With that, it fired right up! After I got the new car about the same time this happened, my motivation to fix it just wasn't there.

85 Brat, all stock. I pulled the carb apart to clean it as best as I could. When you press the throttle off idle, it sputters as it revs up slowly. While driving, it's ok at steady light throttle, or heavy throttle. But everything in between it doesn't like, bucks and sputters. Seems to run better above 3k rpm. Thoughts on clearing this up? Did I miss a jet or two when cleaning the carb?

Door lock cylinders are sometimes easier to do without the glass in the door. Can't remember specifically on the Brat doors though.

I don't know if the Weber would pass the Colorado visual emissions inspection though, so I'm not sure if that's a plausible alternative just yet. Without the vehicle being registered yet, it makes it more difficult.

Yes, the choke works. I can watch it slowly opening as the engine warms up. I'll check the others things you guys recommended, thanks. edit: I do know there is an exhaust leak up front. Had to fix the muffler first, but now I know there is one. Which gasket belongs between the head and the pipe? Just the O one, or the oval one with bolt holes?

Just took it for a drive(it's not yet registered, and needs to pass emissions to get registered). Stumbling on partial throttle. It will idle fine, and run ok at full throttle fine. It's everything in between. So it seems to be getting enough fuel. Maybe something like the intake manifold gasket leaking? Carb gasket?

I can find no vacuum leaks. I used my vacuum pump to test every line and diaphragm I could, all tested good. One pump of the throttle before start up, and on cold start it fired up right away and idled fine just now. Still feels a bit hesitant as I throttle it up, but better than before.

85 Brat, EA81, Hitachi carb. Both fuel filters replaced. New plugs, wires, air filter. PCV seems to be operable. I can choke it and start the car fine, though sometimes it stalls a few seconds later. Starts right back up again. It's having a hard time with high RPM, and coming off idle. It wants to drop RPM down when I apply throttle at idle when cold(and will sometimes die), but when warmed up this is much improved, but not gone. It seems like it's running lean to me, but I can't figure out why. I did the carb rebuild on it recently, which made things better, but didn't completely fix it.

Awesome, thanks!

Is that a factory manual? Does it have a procedure for testing the crank sensor?

Yes, it turns

It is just flashing 6 fast with the key in the on position.

Hitachi distro, with the 4 wire optic crank angle sensor. Yes, it has fusible links. It cranks all day long, but doesn't get any spark.

1987 Brat, EA81 engine, EA82 SPFI conversion. Months ago, it didn't restart when I shut down to put gas in. I towed it home, and somewhat ignored it. One day I tried to start it, and it did. The next time I tried to start it, it didn't again. Which is where it's at now, no start. And it's not getting spark. I tested the coil, which is in spec. It has 12V at the primary connections. I tested that there is voltage going to the crank sensor, which reads 12, 5, 5, 0V on the 4 wires going to it. When I put a test light on the primary side of the coil, I see no indication that either is disconnecting while I crank it.

Plugs are probably due. I think I did them at 275k. It's a bit over 300 now.

Manual

Bought a Subaru pcv valve today, going to put that in later. Read the codes, had more than I thought. The EJ22 doesn't have an egr, so the light is always on. Read and reset them. 301(cyl 1 misfire), 302(cyl 2 misfire), 325(knock sensor), 403(egr), 420(low catalyst efficiency), 1507(idle air control). 1507 seems like the only one that could be a cause and not a symptom.

I'll keep it in mind the next time I head to to the pull n pay here in Denver/Aurora. Are you in a hurry to get this?

98 Legacy GT, with a 95 EJ22 swapped in. Every so often, the engine will just start to misfire and run very rough with no power. If I shut the engine off, then turn it back on, everything is fine again. It started over a year ago, but almost never did it. In the past 2 months, it's done it more often. It does not flash the CEL when this is happening. And since I can't figure the source of this misfire, here 2 other things the engine is doing: When going down a hill, and engine braking, then getting on the throttle, it smokes for a bit burning off some oil. I suspect valve stem seals for this. It is also using a bit of oil, which could be tied to the valve stem seals.

I'll give that a look and see, thanks.

I realized today that I have an odd operation with my heater on the 87 Brat. While driving down the highway, some air is blowing on my feet, even with the fan turned off. But when I go up a hill(and the engine is high revving, high load, no vacuum), the air slowly decreases, and will eventually stop if the hill is long enough. As soon as I let off the throttle, the air starts pushing again. If I turn on the fan while climbing, it acts normally. What could be causing this?

I'll see about fixing the pictures. And I don't, but I can get some and post them.

After driving it around for a few days, I've determined I want to shorten the coils slightly. Going to start with 0.5", since this is a one way trip. When I raised the back end, the wheels only dropped 0.5" from resting, so cutting off 0.5" should give me a bit more strut travel. The strut measured 10.5" resting, and 11.0" unloaded. The uncompressed Honda coil length is 12.5" (same as the Subaru coil), but I can take off up to 1.5" to keep the strut tight when unloaded(though that would be cutting it a bit close). The top end of the Honda coil is not quite squared, and not quite tangential. The bottom is squared, so unless you are going with the Toyota strut, I'd stay away from cutting that side. Also, the KYB and Tokico struts are different lengths. The Tokico(what was on the car before) is 21.5 extended, while the KYB is 20.5 extended. However, the difference is only 0.25" in actual travel(measured from the bump stop mount to the top of the tube, 6.75 Tokico vs 6.5 KYB). Tokico, KYB, Subaru coil, Honda Coil (it keeps telling me "You are not allowed to use that image extension on this community." So here are some links. If anyone can tell me the right way to share Google Photos on here, I'm listening) https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Tu-yQxG_8OAJ8_chrQ1qEDPWrkHJL21-KOiezn_zAtiESkzPd24ykTpJdpniBescp0xR-G_ukvcCZBaZGMhZ4zZQtnBUEIMCOOGR2dIgAXR_Ev_rfMHS99-xJ6we_IUsXYsp6OcVRtcwcsrLrP1ZlySCn31_wD8MZgimTZ6rou7QaWWftWx78tcDrNy8rbKzpQO3-h97cCoqkqTgZt9hq9wwUcMUwos2CdUiT1XhM8o0jM73OoL3pLGKfJQTiPbx27voPwXT150Cg3acX307bkBHH296CfhTuVuIHuFb_tuxqORkqAWWK2gpmSzImCAxpnJApj7QGeuMJxWq9d2mz3jOKKDzjAsaEqMZ7hg2Oc2tWH6r0g6HcF8TDXm53tEPFt3mJ-oYMUvIB3-6hfROXvbMioidVmE9BkCNncBT5t3Cd8CS--2erR5YAsBavL8BRHsqBAJ-SMwuo4aCGkkFE3pO_gBvRYEpBTqmriav0IeS_7_St0t7lMIq1uFZSHk-avCR8g4Df21TfnyccBg_lnwI-k0v1rg2JQPZR-7i3LPBmRlmrbGgn5Kv1n8_PwfvPt5GJH-MI7vfAp3PWJRzdRziC7JbcO7KX89Kmwx2sXPHghxmw8_q=w529-h935-no Before pictures(with the struts removed, and just lowered to the height) https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/XrGIj0rhpqPUQdZmlaEUHtvNk-cc8-waRh9YZnNLU3MJ6eWSxPt7P92eKDjYS8LXeqGGvUA00RHt7fbEMjAddn1QwNiRBpnZ5gLUjYLcxIcCURXbjGOzdnPigb-_pj8UDEd3HZP3aISkqQwBF1TMNZuiaFrzmbgoDsQ7NHUgyoGLdd41j4CuAGWBHXlZinqIPAly-HxcNX-jVZLeEOvuTI2_HCXgXtv3e6ujhcJyktO4LwnG8vpCeFmJwwfacZvdSClie4_q2PR6xLX3qbqw9wGXrx-UqimrtybEDPsV04ZbRDkbUN5pFXSbxRr1q6haHgvybzATTcE2YP5-Zwxx-dhqlwHyWBW1qg_4H_fojJVi4e9eVP-J6GIttQnnZ7_lC02qfL54hPD7TWnygYAXvmrwmJ0FNVz02YSxLJK-m2rURG9zkQ7ty261gk64exUJrliI4QmfmG7rd8_WC2lsbOJsx7-v2aS6drLmqpGymlvIM3r0EGezsvIKUGYA07whlj3e0vJmDh7KJMyLoT8JJXAPhLcL-gjydWPhANcGt9RvRvVHN3Y5dxUCutNz4FkUPp0097Bw9mnTd6wKWIISyRh3cCDysb-5lFEktSh19ex7vpfPgVeh=w1654-h936-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/HpcA7eJedT3LNUlZQHoXhPx6r3dxqQUbWso1MjLwZ4kAA2KAxLBHr3QmgHYfz07l1JXk9Mc2KsCpTlRWfXJofSwOf33mzUMbXQgCosZICijOqNzlmTS33AQshq7EEhXWjhR6cXeI9A3jhC46wU8U9MZqujyDhGqeaSXrlUislPbEF7US4ybH3vIzHAzNq1eedjBu6S8PNTBvieO10FlkwHya2bUDyLGXyyy4bxaEEwrPwbIncS-AGB9Rejewj_uUCikS93r7t891GDAZVMY9W3AoIsqdiah9rm3pQBi1T16Vq6l7P6VIRRWcysLEucirArtgWRfAg4jjJqghg0ND2M-WgdLmOdj2xPnkQ9R70JimtUvOWXbRQ4bPiRPlcG8FWy3AX04E8p1G3Oy8Se-v-KRtws0uMSU9mFMAPn6cn4Eenvy_TkhpnkKXXMpEoVBcAeOcd5evqDzqVXgqbHl6zpo2kSAvo0WEVQjKjs6GpOp_VpNpDNjxExvwcvLEWdVQI_hBKmZrQ9UoyC3cmAvqrVN35dg_NF34C-wP5IrQQiBA3i4KTJIJfc3L0jSg7z9e3h_FhbKp5W4frzWl8NIAqpEj_i3rp9QRSGrABULfVARGOix1=w1654-h936-no After pictures, on unmodified Honda coils https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/eyGkgIHlIS6hzInm25BDp_PL--poplSyGlqBkEXJrKIQia8aYCbAovXtdp9GqZjSiXeLap74YhWIKRjdz6FgJawPxgDAjvic342yINyvgpS56NQFEgvsfxsuiqdZIS8nWJodA5g1UILPO0kCUNNrj9bZrXfoDWLUWyaB9WEdQHhM453ZiJ57aqOxYTYAouS4CToQfEwPQNp4zIRGSmPsscAHDMfAA56RL3kUKZP69YbrQ1MJBxM1jpG76xAyo4CUGkSGzkSi1lQ2noVYzh-WFXojbubN1_QYeI0AXJUrYFP24ATzqCcQWEBthLoY66L-laumQEXEEkqJEr2qtWxYS9Hcxr7CnV6FqgkI_ZTERTQxqzlAlOyv60r2eQA5btWg7DlNM2uSxdqf9jwxRaDbCFZNlEElluHWc9hIgTn-cQWAQmeDouE8xKne6L5EWUwyfkoI4G6GTI5nCNCaUGMbo6PZY_R907iR2ADmZaWWZiwxYlD8WvGUk1aRSr0ds8SBMmnsYh9r_nFTU9JfyZ8vpnEdX0x3eSXZyUDp6y1OmulPvvM-plkdLNyYEXGzzzYAO4pJtQh336k5QlVQTjArCWQQ55-dsBw72amui9M_HCTwG4aQ=w1654-h936-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/M4VMTMhXmhgKUH5xpKqI2wrY1GyH-Wkf2kjnWtbpkPQtdIyLPlbPf-fbGNMfJO_QkDmmhrkQ3UG5pV3XZqwIIb1qeRxXClsWsR4kHqA_nMakdUyMp7brOuTl99zzhUQlTIB7D4mtk9dipzMT8qzJuRd1FSL3Lit8t979ZCzAlMP0QEu5qvFF16w7-Dmen4PrEeeNZMjQToFYhbY0wG0OGIXWzFTTaPyjN3OWgoK9gRMu86pSqk1bqve-qHs76JGsSPgUwFkh6bLcl4BihzVknn9jMOeFvhW8bUI5E7TRPrv4G7Sokrxpj1IJD6Xg9dM5N-AA49lWaNLyzl6Djh-M6qDYl_I9uqweptuDtcW4icP8EJmwAHgjJ3v71pFkGFMLGkB4pSpLYvLIOwqSgPHRWK4pfKRdZs-dL5HisJ_-YmQ0_kXDKlo36JtBbSC9Pxe26rJOBOFOZTHUuV_VQyyntwC5ugZjqdlHH3VYaGq1nmRADKHs8NH1X8fEqor8EDfwc781hr-bakMhtwe2HSsaQCXNA1ytr3EMeB71vhya6xgEAgplmn4NvCqrMQ5Md_Ysw1fPUCmZRNekeFiAbc8o5fYH-YcK8JOoYpcngXNmZDDqwGuV=w1654-h936-no Still need to drive it around, and get the cut springs settled before I take another pic.

There is a site that makes whatever adaptor you want. I haven't ordered any, but they are out there. Built to order. Maybe adapit?