provin1327

Horn works, brakes work. I have tried with brake pedal and without. I feel like anyone at the deslership will just have the same unknown problems as me. Maybe I will stop by tomorrow

The car not going into reprogramming mode has nothing to do with the remote. If I was hearing the first horn beep, reprogramming, and it wasn't working then I would know its the remote... I gave it another go, this time I armed the security system from inside by locking the doors. The light blinks like normal so I know its not in valet mode. I turned the key and the system went off. I cycled the key 3 times and the system disarmed so I know it can read the key cycles. Then I tried the reprogram steps but still no horn honk, I even kept going after 10 cycles, still nothing.

Remote is good, led lights up Yes the key dings when in the ignition Yes the door indicator works, the light on the dash comes on I do have the alpine system, the car came with the origional owners manual and it lists the reprogramming steps. I have made sure all of doors are unlocked, including the hatch, and all of the doors are closed. I haven't tried in a few days, I feel like I am destroying my ignition with all of these attempts!! Haha next thing I know the key is going to snap off inside there

Yes I have followed the cars101 instructions/link. I have the correct remote, with the grey buttons

I recently purchased a 1999 Legacy and it did not come with a key fob. I bought a used one on Amazon and tried to reprogram it. I followed the instructions found in the owners manual Open and close drivers door Cycle key from "lock" to "on" ten times, ending on lock and leaving the key in Horn will sound, open close door, press any button on fob, remove key from ignition. No matter what I do I can't get it to into programming mode, no horn sound at all. I have tried the ignition cycle slow and fast but it doesn't seem to matter. The horn does work, the security system works (I can arm it with the door lock button from the inside but I have to cycle the ignition 3 times to silence the alarm since I don't have a working fob) and I have tried the entire sequence multiple times with no luck programming the fob. I even tried disconnecting the battery, stepping on the brake pedal, and reconnecting the battery, still nothing. I did a quick google search and found a few threads of people having the same problem. Some of them never fixed it, others said it just worked randomly. Any advice?

Yep it's cable driven. A small plastic piece had broken off of the hot cold blend knob leaving the cable unattached at the knob end. Im not too worried about it for now but I will have to get a new unit at the junk yard

Came to the forum to ask another question and figured I would update this. Only issues I have had 1. The whine I was hearing when I test drove was the center diff and viscus unit. Once it got up to temp it would cause the front wheels to lock up on tight turns. This was because it was binding and acting like a locker. $60 for a new junkyard unit, took a day to install. 2. Drivers window controller just crapped out, easy fix. 3. Rear diff drain plug is close to being rounded, looks like someone tried to remove it with a 1/2" wrench but it actually takes a 13mm drain socket 4. Have yet to re-charge A/C as it is leaking, probably from the schrader valve on the low pressure side. Aside from that it's running good.

Does anyone have experience with the heat/ac blend door? I have a 1996 Impreza and the hot/cold blend knob on the dash does not work. If I want to switch between hot and cold I have to reach down into the passenger footwell and flip the door myself. I can't tell if it's cable driven, works on vacuum, or if there is a relay or fuse somewhere. I've searched and can't find any good information.

So I recharged the system and found a small leak on the low pressure side at the o ring. Now the clutch was engaging but was still blowing hot. I poked under the passenger footwell and pulled the cable that is on the flap, it was blowing over the heater core the whole time. New problem is finding out how to fix that because the heat/ac temp blend knob on the dash doesn't do anything. Is there a fuse or a relay for the motor that controls this?

I believe when I checked for voltage at that 3 wire plug on the input side I didnt have voltage but I will have to check again this weekend. Currently at work and cant test. I will try to update on Sunday, thank you so much for the information so far, wiring is not my strong suit

If I unplug that sensor and jump it and the clutch engages then I know its the sensor. I havent checked any of the relays yet but the fuses are good.

So its possible that power still isnt getting to the compressor even though the switch is flipping between the two AC modes? If I have continuity at the pressure sensor when the Subarubis running and the AC is flipped on doesn't that mean I have pressure in the system? If it was low on freon the pressure sensor would not have continuity right?

So I know the dash switch works because when I switch it frmm AC to Max AC the fan blows much harder. I am hoping its just low freon and has been low for a while which is why there are no visible leaks, going to buy a can and recharge it tomorrow

Well I feel dumb, the fans are just doing a self test, everything is fine there. As far as the AC goes I am not getting voltage to the AC but I jumped the clutch and it does engauge. I do have continuity at the pressure sensor so I know it is not the sensor that is shutting off the system

Im not seeing any leaks or fluid anywhere.