travmo86

Just an update: found a local garage that is able to data stream a 1993. The cam sensor and crank sensor were not in sync. On further inspection found the crank pulley bolt had backed out slightly. The crank gear notched out the key slot in the crankshaft causing the timing to be all over the place. The engine is done. Thank you to everyone for the help!

Also btw, BG 44k is an excellent fuel additive that I have seen personally do "miracles." Look for it on Ebay. Usually about $20 a can

Check out this thread, http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/18095-1993-legacy-gremlins/ Experiencing similar problems with my 1993. Unfortunately I have not been able to do work on it much lately as it is located out of town. As far as things to check, yours does sound electronic but just to eliminate, I would do a compression test as well as pull the timing cover and check the belt. Make sure it hasnt jumped a tooth or two.

1993 legacy 2.2 AWD. Is there a way to tell which fuel pump is the right one without ripping the pump out of the tank? Was looking to order one online but I started noticing they were different sizes (1 1/2 inch, 2 inch, threaded type, plug type.) Conveniently they were all listed as "direct fit" and "fits 1993 legacy 2.2" Really dont want to gut the car and let it sit for 3-4 days till the mail arrives. Is there anyway to tell what pump to order beforehand or am I stuck yanking the pump?

Sorry just saw the top where you have some misfire codes. What codes are they in particular?

Definitely check any codes for the CEL. 96 should have OBD2 so any auto parts store will usually scan it for free. My 93 2.2 is doing very similar to what you describe. Unfortunately being a 93 I have the good old blinking light. Not very helpful in my case. All its throwing is an O2 sensor code. However I believe that the code is probably more the face that its running rich as all hell more than a malfunction in the sensor. I have a heavy exhaust smell with mine.

I never mentioned a used fuel pump. I did mention a used fuel pressure regulator if need be. The link I posted is for a new pump. For the price just switch the pump being its 20 years old. Not expensive nor............difficult at all in my opinion.

I did not test the the volume. Gauge only tests pressure. As cheap as this pump is, I'm probably better off just buying it for testing purposes. If it makes the car run right and crapps out a week later, at least I know to get a reputable good fuel pump. Would probably cost significantly more for a gauge that measures pressure as well as volume. Also found a "good used" FPR. I posted links to both below. Bear in mind when Im in town the car gets driven maybe 150-200 miles and 10-15 a miles a week while im gone so it doesnt sit. If this were not the case I would never consider using such cheap a** s***. http://www.carparts.com/details/Subaru/Legacy/Replacement/Fuel_Pump/1993/4x4/4_Cyl_2-dot-2L/M314501.html http://www.ebay.com/itm/Subaru-Impreza-Legacy-SVX-Fuel-Pressure-Regulator-OEM-2-2L-2-5L-/271155575773?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1993|Make%3ASubaru|Model%3ALegacy&hash=item3f2221bbdd&vxp=mtr

Just to get an opinion what are everybody's thoughts on the fuel pressure regulator? I've been doing hours more of research and watching different Subaru repair videos. Seem to have similar issues (slight difficulty on cold start, it smells rich when it runs, mpg has plummeted, horrible hesitation to where I dont even want to drive it.) Just wondering if other members have ever had theirs go bad? When I looked at the car when I was in Ohio for thanksgiving, I did pull the vacuum hose off with the engine running and it did raise a couple hundred rpm I would guess. However I did not pull the hose with the engine off to check for fuel in the line (didn't know to do that.) I am heading back to Ohio in 4-6 weeks. Would love to hit the nail on the head with this old heap haha

I have seen a similar condition one other time. Unfortunatly it was not on a Subaru. Like yours, it had been in an accident and repaired. It would have irratic changes in fuel pressure, random cylinder misfires, lights turning on and off, and the real laughable one was when we hit the key to start it and where the digital speedometer display is read "error" and the car would do nothing. To top it off, sometimes you would hit the key and it would run like new. During one of its episodes, my friend accidentally bumped into the front right fender while looking under the hood and immediately the problem went away. Looked and saw a wiring harness that I guess sustained some damage going to either the ECM or body control module can't remember which now it's been a few years. One of the wires was exposed and grounding itself out on the body creating a short. Fixed the wire and it never happened again. Hope this helps.

Need to plug scanner into the computer OBD2 plug. May have codes in "pending status" that have not yet activated the light. If it is running excessively rich, there should be something. Never got more than 20-23mpg on a good day with my 2.2 legacy.

Suffering the same issues with a 93 legacy 2.2. I have a thread a little further down that has a few suggestions from members. Still have had no luck with mine yet. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/142792-93-legacy-no-power-at-all-under-load-will-idle-ignition-relay/

That makes sense as well. Do you remember how long it took afterward? Didnt know if it was something you had to drive it for a while to dissolve the carbon deposits or if you noticed it right away

*thermostat not thermostate

Sounds like the thermostate is stuck open or opening way too soon. Try replacing that first. Its not a good idea to run the car for long periods cold at highway speeds. It will run very inefficient. You will probably start throwing engine light codes as well

BTW I have never had any luck at the dealers either. Went through the same thing with an old volvo I had. Im with you on the dealers. They are for the most part a training ground

I will definitly do some research on it. That makes sense. If one intake valve doesnt seat all the way, its compressing into the intake, screwing up the the other cylinders. Plus it wouldnt sound like a steady miss......makes sense

Both ecu temp and maff (temp sensor replaced, maff checked.) Was going to take a can of BG 44K with me also for the fuel system. I have personally seen the positive effects on other vehicles (would hope for $20 a can.) What oil decarbonizer did you use?

I do intend on rechecking the fuel pressure or I may just replace the pump. Being 20 years old it is not like its going to do any harm. Its simple enough to do and fairly inexpensive.It's been so long now I cant remember the readings I had. I think before I turned the motor on I remember 65psi and I thought it was reading in the 35 range with the engine running. I forgot I also did replace the knock sensor about a year before this all started. Not because the engine was acting up, just looking over the motor I noticed the sensor had a crack in it. As far as the speed sensor, I suppose anything that shorts that reads to the computer could cause it to act erratic if the voltage in the ecu is jumping all over the place. The transmission was replaced with a used unit about 5 years ago at a buddy's shop. He's a great mechanic and does the transmission teardown and rebuilds. The other idiot that worked there did the removel and installation on all the vehicles. He ended up getting fired not long after I had my trans swaped when they found out he was strung out on coke and stealing change from the cars. I did have a problem with the speedometer right after. The guy I knew there fixed it no questions ask and apologized over and over and told me what had happened to the other guy who worked on my car. yay! I will look the wires over and see if I see anything exposed. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/18095-1993-legacy-gremlins/ This is the forum I found that talked about the ignition relay. I do want to try this being its just swapping a relay. Does anyone know of a direct fit replacement that is available? The one mentioned in the discussions I couldn't find.

lol at "rump roast." That's not what I typed.

Ahhh I forgot to mention that, I verified the exhaust as well.....by accident. While driving an exhaust hanger (or apparantly the last one holding on gave way allowing the system to drag. Unfortunatly i was going 50mph down a gravel road so before I had a chance to pull over the entire system (yes the whole thing front to back) ripped off. That was quite fun loading red rump roast hot converters into the car. It has since been repaired however still same poor performance before the break, after the break, and after repair. I have questioned the possibility of the o2 sensor. Only thing holding me back was I didnt think on that year of car the sensor did anything until the engine reaches running temp. When its cold its the worst and even warm, while its better, I wont take it on the highway anymore.

Hello all!! First let me say this is by far the most impressive Subaru discussion site I've found! Trust me, I've spent countless hours searching for an answer to my puzzle. My problem, 93 legacy non turbo. I noticed a while back while driving at steady highway speed suddenly the car would feel almost as if it were running out of gas. It was to the point where I could push the pedal to the floor and nothing would happen. I would pull off the road thinking I needed to call the hook as the engine dies. However, it would start right back up and back on the road I was! This happened mabye 5 times over a period of probably a year so I didnt put all that much thought into it. It has 218000 on it so if it has a couple quarks so be it I thought. However it seems it recent months that it has slowly lost more and more power, whether this is a related issue I can't say with full certainty at this time. It has now come to the point that it will start and idle but has NO power even out of gear. The car will not move until the engine has warmed for 15 to 20 mins. Even after that I still wont drive it in heavy traffic. It is just too sluggish. Fuel eco is significantly lowered also (from about 23mpg to mabye 15 or 16mpg.) The list of things I have done: The basics plugs, wires, fuel and air filters Engine coolant temp sensor (twice) also this significantly improved the ease of starting but none of the driveability Verified fuel pressure Verified vacuum line condition and the breather condition Verified mass air sensor with a known good unit Timing belt complete kit installed within 20,000 miles so it shouldnt be out of time My best bet I have found was in these discussions where someone had traced poor running and random loosing power completly to the JITECO 25229 AA001 ignition relay. I was going to try this but locating one has been a joke. Also I read where a user had cross referenced to another part # available at Advance but I have been unable to locate that either. Does anyone know of an availble new direct fit replacement? Also I'm open to any other suggestions of my issue. I'm sure mine isnt the only one acting up. Just a side note, while I will post updates, I dont get to mess with the car very often. I left it at a family members house when I moved to Missouri as I had 5 cars when I moved from Ohio. Getting anything done with vehicles as far as titling and registering in this state is a joke and an embarrassment. I left it there for that reason and so that when the wife and I drive back to Ohio, we each have something to drive. My folks drive it once or twice a week just to keep it from sitting. So I will be somewhat slow to be able it say it is fixed or not. I go back every month or two. Thank you in advance!