Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

josolong

Members
  • Posts

    25
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    olympia
  • Biography
    uhhh
  • Vehicles
    GL 87 and GL 85 w/ 94 turbo

josolong's Achievements

Member

Member (2/11)

1

Reputation

  1. hey i'll give you a bump and say thanks for responding to my post. this is some good info for me so far as the particulars of wiring the swap go. good luck with yours doggie, sounds like a handful. i'm still gauging where i'm coming into the process at with mine.
  2. thanks all for the followup! i'm not seasoned by any means with electrical which is why i'm tryin to not shoot myself in the foot-- dont have a buru buddy now that i'm living down here in oly. i bought this car with the body in progress, int/ext/wiring, and limited info. no better time to learn, but tryna be as careful as possible effing around troubleshooting i'll be taking a look into the wiring soon, i'm waiting to get some of my manuals back from a friend. until then i'll be studying stuff online. thanks for the heads up on that one tomrhere. i'm getting a better idea with how to proceed here. still reading down the thread. i'm presuming that the dash harness was switched in mine cause everything is working fine except for these particulars. i suppose now it's a matter of splicing wire, or something.
  3. hey. i haven't been around here for awhile, but i've just bought a new rig/project. it's pretty tight, an 85 wagon body with a 94 wagon turbo dropped in. real fast. i've never had a fast car like this before problem is it's got a few issues with the lights wiring. this is what i've got (and don't): -parking light switch works as would be expected. -light switch on blinker arm brings the headlights on but no tail lights or running lights -brights work as normal. -no brake lights under any circumstances. when the car is off and i tap the brake pedal, the door chime is triggered, (ding dong, ding dong when the pedal is depressed) -no dash lights (this could be a bulb) this seems like it could be a somewhat straightforward switcharound with the wires, but i know rarely is anything like this straightforward in the actual sense.. does anyone who knows these wires have an inkling of insight for me to move forward with? when i drive i can turn on the parking lights and the headlights to make do, but still no brake light. thanks, joe
  4. this is really good info. thanks buds! i'll crack that open when i have time and see what i can see. this is a picture from when the weber was gettin put on, before i owned it http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/139592-just-picked-up-my-first-dual-range-suby/page-2 not sure yet on what's sealing that up currently but i'll know soon. can i just stick some jb weld down there or is there a better solution?
  5. forgot to say i have gases in the cooling system for sure. before i was staying on top of it i would let it run low and get gurgling from the core. but since then i've burped it and keep the coolant topped off at the reservoir. thats why i suspected head stuff originally. i know that the carb isn't attached that well. just after i bought it i noticed that a few of the nuts were loose connecting it to the the adapter (or connecting the adapter to the intake, or all of the nuts were loose.). since then i took some ether to it and sprayed around to find leaks, torqued it down some (but not at all in a job well done sort of way). what i'm wondering now, is it possible that as the carb sucked in coolant, the radiator was drawing in air through the reservoir (which was not being kept topped up) and introducing bubbles into the cooling system? it's a far and optimistic reach, especially since i still have overheating issues. but it would be nice for it to only be the carb gasket instead of carb and heads.
  6. yeah. i'm thinking heads too. but do you think it's cracked if it still gets up and goes whenever i need? i suspect it's been an issue since winter even but that the temps weren't an issue in the colder weather. i've put at least 5k miles on since it began to drink coolant noticeably. would anyone think torquing the heads at this late stage is a good idea or would that make a testy situation worse? what about blue devil for a quick fix? i don't really have anywhere to pull the engine or do any other sort of serious work and taking it to a garage is pretty much off the table.
  7. hey guys. i've been having some issues for a while now, and i haven't had any money to address them so the car has been doing it's good part to hold itself together for me in the meanwhile, but now seems like the time to really take a look at them. i have issues with running hot, burning a lot of oil and occasionally coolant, though at this point they are not mixing with each other in either reservoir. when i start up i have straight drops of water coming out the tailpipe and after it's hot it turns into sweet steam. i've had to start running the blower on 4 to keep it from running too hot while i'm driving, but once the heater is blowing the temperature stays right where i want it to. i also don't always have to blow the heater, but it really helps when it's hot out or for going up hills. sometimes in fact it seems to be running just fine, tho this is certainly the exception rather than the norm as time goes on. gaskets? i took a trip a few days ago from seattle over the curtain and drove around eastern wa for a good five hundred miles at least and over a few passes with no catastrophic results so far. this car is tough! i kept her filled with oil and coolant and left the blower on. when i take a moderate left at highway speeds i also get a plume of white smoke out the back that lasts a couple seconds. i figure that this indicates what side the leak is on, but that's as far as i've got. it's never gone into the red on the thermo but it gets a good 2/3 of the way up the gauge if i don't turn on the heater and that makes me sweat. car is an 87 gl 5 sp weberized i want to know if this fits any picture of any particular pattern of wear. thanks for your help!
  8. i'm in seattle! wonder if anyone else is in the city proper
  9. dam nice all around! i've never checked how my weber is jetted but always mean to.. it was bought used and installed by the previous owner. i get abt 16 city mpg (up and down hills in seattle) and 24-25 highway. it's tuned in about as good as i can get it without diggin into those jets, and notwithstanding some other (vaccuum) issue entirely. the best measure i ever got was 26 hiway driving 75mph in the rain with a couple of big guys for passengers. still dont quite get that one.
  10. man i'd love to get 29 city with my weber..
  11. thanks for the info. i got it plugged up, and i had replaced the fuel filter when i bought it. there's just one FF right? just up from the gas tank under the car eh?
  12. right. here's the picture. seems like attachments aren't working
  13. hey guys, thanks for being here! i bought my gl with a chop job of a weber conversion, i been smelling raw gas every now and then and i noticed yesterday that the line pictured on the right is just gurgling fuel out and onto the ground.. these are on the right side of the engine bay. is it some sort of fuel takeup line, or aspirator for the old carb?? maybe i know now why i'm getting such crap mpgs. can i just plug it or should i run it soewhere? thanks again
  14. o hey? is that from down in the wheel well or in the bay by the top of the strut? i've read into that a little, but i can't find consistent information on the front strut adjuster. thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...