subaru-ha-ha

gumbie stuff is ok but the quality of the materials is lower and the specs they are machined to is looser- thats why they cost less money..... I can say this with 100 percent certainty: Fuji makes a damn good product.

On a bench grinder or what? ... youre talking the top of the valve itself?? or the bottom of the bucket? because grinding the top would require taking the heads off, no? I kind of just want the right shims... The guy who built my motor ground the valves to get the correct clearance but the motor only has 5k and some of the valves were more than .1 out.... which is alot right? I mean I drive the thing pretty hard but i thought they were designed to go 80 k without adjustment. Anyway, just hoping someone might have the right size shims and be willing to trade. The top of the valve hits the bottom of the bucket right? and the valves are heat treated to be hard on the outside and soft on the inside right? so, wouldn't grinding the top of the valve ruin the friction surface and cause mushrooming and premature wear? but wouldn't the mushrooming cause the valves to be shorter, thereby causing more valve lash rather than less??? someone help!! Please for the love of god and everything holy- i wont be able to sleep at night unless my valves are within factory spec....

Heloooo out there guys. My name is Chris. Had a valve cover gasket leak and decided to check valve lash.. Found some of them to be .1mm out of spec Factory spec for the ej 25 dohc motor is: .2mm +/- .02 mm (intake), .25mm +/- .02 mm (exhaust) ..... I know when the motor gets hot everything expands and there is almost 0 lash, so if the valves are too tight to begin with, they might expand to the point where the valve doesn't close all the way, which will affect (effect?) compression.... Sorry I love to pontificate I have a bunch of shims that i pulled from my car and was wondering if anyone would be interested in trading. These things are 8 bucks from the factory plus shipping and i am a dangwallet. Shims I have: Shims I need: 1- 2.45mm 1- 2.23mm 2- 2.49mm 1- 2.35mm 3- 2.52mm 1- 2.26mm 1- 2.53mm 2- 2.54mm 1- 2.55mm 1- 2.56mm 1- 2.60mm 1- 2.61mm I live in chico, CA and would prefer a local trade.... My calipers are spot on ( ive checked them against others) sooo it would be cool if i could measure your pucks to make sure im getting the correct ones. However, if you are out of the area, im still into it, but hope you are as anal as me. Thanks all, please spred the word if you know anyone.

Disconnected both switches and still had the problem. Disconnected the door lock timer and the problem stopped, but it looks like the timer had already been replaced with a generic unit.... which means something else is causing the timer to go bad? Or just a cheap unit? will replace with another and see if that is my fix. thank you all for your input.

Tx going out to disconnect the lock switches now.

I left the key fob home and thought that fixed the problem but the locks started going berserk again today. The car starts and runs great, but there is a poltergeist in the locks... Saw the info about the lock timer... Is mine in the same location? Mine is a 97 outback. Tomorrow i will disconnect both lock switches... might be the passenger side cause my mom was messin with it just before they went crazy. She thinks its hilarious.. Me not so much.

Just got a legacy on the cheap and was feeling pretty proud of myself for rebuilding the motor. Drove it from chico to the bay and the doors began to lock and unlock themselves at random.. Any suggestions as to a fix? Still new to these cars and would be happy to provide any info I can... Its a 97 with a ej25. Has stock alarm with the key-fob with four buttons. East coast car so alot of the grounds have corrosion.

Heloo out there in subaru land. My name is chris g. new to subies but already in love. Just rebuilt the ej 25 in my 97 outback. seems like its going to be a great car. Anyway, bless you all for contributing to this knowledge base and hope to help/ and be helped.