jonpaul03

Thank you! I like having the control with the manual choke more than the electric choke. The Flowmaster definitely sounds more aggressive and a bit louder than stock, but overall it sounds pretty good. The clip I have is with the BRAT sitting in the garage, so it echoes more. The sound in the clip isn't completely accurate.

I finished the exhaust this weekend! I decided to go with the FlowMaster HP-2 Series muffler. I also decided to take the tailpipe out of the driver side instead of running it under the CV and out the back.

And.........I also replaced the gauges. I went with the BRAT gauges with a tachometer. I had to run a new wire to the coil, but it works flawlessly! Plus, they are way more sexy.

Once the choke was figured out I decided to put the BRAT on ramped and block up the back... I pressure washed the hell outta it and scraped the stuff with edges. I rust-reformed it all and still in the process of undercoating it. I am gonna leave it on the ramps so we can fab an exhaust. Any recommendations on a muffler to replace the pre-muffler under the driveshaft? I think I am gonna run one new age muffler rather than a pre-muffler and a muffler. Ideas?

It has been a while since I have posted on here. I was having issues with the electric choke on the Weber Carb since I last posted. I ended up replacing the electric choke with a manual choke and now I have control!!! The Weber seems to be operating properly now with the new choke and the placement of the vacuum hoses.

Does anyone have any experience with a Weber offroad carb on the BRATs? Do they typically dump fuel into the primary? Is there an exact way to route the vacuum lines considering the stock carb required more vacuum connections?

I will keep that in mind. So far I havent had any luck finding new ones.

Thank you

I ran into another issue... My EGR Valve tube that runs from the cylinder head to the intake manifold is garbage... Do you know if you have a tube in storage? I would definitely be interested if you have this part!! Thanks.

Yes...a 78' BRAT. She is almost complete.

I spoke with you earlier this year about some cylinder heads, but I found some in FL. Thanks for the offer though. I am also looking for a good pair of the black plastic triangle vent trim pieces. Would you happen to have any in storage? Thanks again.

I finally got the motor dropped back in! Unfortunately I found that my voltage regulator has crapped out. I have a new one on order and should be able to fire it up this week sometime. Anyways...here are a few pics of the motor back in its home.

The Alternator and a few other odds and ends have been installed. Now its just up to the weather to cooperate. The new EGR Valve tube is on its way and she will be complete!

The new Clutch kit is installed and the Air injection tubing is repaired and installed. We had to braze the flared end back together and it fits perfectly. Just waiting for a full day of nice weather to drop the motor back in.

I have all of those parts...what I am looking for is the small oil seal that goes into the shaft after the pilot bearing is fitted. Do the new clutch kits have the seal that presses into the flywheel as a redesign for the original, small, old, crappy oil seal?

Saw that...was hoping the member would go active on the site again and still be able to answer questions. There is always hope!

Good Afternoon. I am repacing my pilot bearing in my 78 BRAT and I do not have the part number for the oil seal that goes between the pilot bearing and the flywheel. Do you think it is one of your books? Thanks

Very Cool

I dont have the part number for the individual seal, but the pilot bearing fromTimken looks like is has a seal built in. I might give it a try. - Thanks for the great comments on my BRAT! As soon as I get the oil seal on the pilot bearing figured out I can just about put the motor back in and finish it up.

I went to replace my clutch and ordered a clutch kit through rockauto.com. When I went to put the new clutch in I realized there is an oil seal in front of the pilot bearing as well (the book says so too). Does anyone know why all of the clutch kits dont come with an oil seal? Do I have to order the Timken pilot bearing in order to achieve that affect or do I just install the pilot bearing the clutch kit comes with and forget about the seal?

Anybody?? I have semi-repaired one of the pieces i have. They are pitted from paint stripper or something and I have worked my way from 100 grit sandpaper to over 1500 grit sandpaper...its lookin alright, but i would rather have original tectured plastics.

I have a couple driver side fenders, but there is a reason I didnt use them...they are kinda rough...one has been hit, and the other is rusted right where the fender comes to a triangle closest to the windshield.

Thanks...to be honest I have put 6 coats of dupli-color gloss black engine enamel and six coats of clear engine enamel on each black part. So far I like it except it has will crack away where I tighten bolts. I am willing to repaint in the future, but I just wanted to see how it works for now. I have all of the other parts done, but I wont be installing them until I find the tubes I need and get the motor back into the BRAT. The heads are treated with a protective coating and will eventually look like the rest of the motor once it is running. I cleaned the mounting surfaces and had enough. The oil pan gasket I received with the rebuild kit shrunk so I am waiting on my new gasket to arrive and then that will be installed. I had one broken oil pan bolt in the block, but I was able to extract it without breaking out my tap and die set (luckily). My new clutch kit will be arriving tomorrow and I can get the flywheel and clutch intalled. Those damn tubes are the only thing holding me back now!!!!!

Well...I ended up getting the nice pair of rebuilt heads from the folks in Sarasota, FL and got them installed... Now that they are installed I am only looking for a couple more pieces. I am looking for the Air Injection tubing (Spider) and the EGR valve pipe that runs from the head to the intake manifold. Here are a few pics of where its at now....

Thank you for the heads up. They are the only thing keeping me from completing the rebuild...one of the bubble flare broke on the spider and the EGR valve tube was corroded so bad that I had to cut it and put a breaker bar on the compression fitting to get it off of the intake manifold. I will have re-engineer a solution if I cant find the correct tubes.