ballitch

The 98 EJ22 is an interference engine, if crank is moving and cams aren't, then you more than likely have bent a few valves. No big deal, buy some new ones online, grab some valve grinding compound, and some valve lapping suction cup things. Easy, just takes some time. Or find a set of decent used heads and swap them in, you'll need new HG's, cam seals, and valve cover seals though. ~Josh~

Screw the stock stuff and go straight to an aftermarket header. Equal length or un-equal length, it's your choice. Don't you just love the low end grunt the frankenstein puts out? ~Josh~

You're going to have to sort out the piston situation if you plan on putting any head on that block that has a chamber volume over 40cc's. The EJ22T has pistons that have -28cc's of dish, the wrx has -12cc's, the Sti has -22, and the N/A EJ22 has -12. If you were to swap on DOHC EJ25 heads(46.6cc chamber volume), your compression ratio would be 7.5:1, horrible, in my opinion. Swap on SOHC EJ25 heads(50-51cc),7.1:1, eesh. Basically, if you want to swap on a set of heads that don't breathe through a straw like the EJ22 heads(41cc) do, you might want to think about replacing your pistons. You could throw in a set of N/A EJ22 pistons, then use DOHC EJ25 heads, that would be simple., and would get you to about 9:1 compression ratio. As long as you don't mind getting your hands dirty. ~Josh~

You might want to look into finding a wiring harness from an H-6 outback. Hopefully someone will correct me if i'm wrong, if the EZ30D/R/whatever is maf based then awesome. If you can run an EJ25 off an EJ18 ecu and injectors and fuel maps you can run an EG33 off an EZ30 ecu as well. At least I would think so. If its map based I don;t think it will work, since the fuel and timing tables would be calibrated for a 3.0 liter motor, not a 3.3 liter motor. You will obviously need to make sure that the EZ30 ecu is hooked up to your TCU. IIRC there are something like 13 wires that need to be hooked up between the ECU and the TCU. Other than that, you could go standalone EM. IIRC, the hydra can operate 6 cylinders. These are the things that came to mind if I were in your shoes. ~Josh~

I only have a stock EJ22 in mine, but the way I took care of wheels spin is 5 lug swap and wrx rims and tires. You WILL break your tranny. My EA82 trans. lasted about 3 years before it walked out the door screaming. I need to keep up with this site more often, frankenmotor brat within 30 miles of me and I didnt even know it.....shame. ~Josh~

As mentioned, it is easiest to grab the crossmember with lines, rack, and all that jazz. Bonus info: If you ever do an EJ swap, the EJ power steering pump bolts up to the EA lines. ~Josh~

Want more info, have had my fan hooked up to a toggle switch for 3 years. And I tried the pull a part yards, pulled all the speed selectors and brought them all back. ....maybe it was the power feed to the speed selcetor switch...:-\ ~Josh~

I'm obviously biased, but I think you should just do it the "old fashioned" way, and strip a harness, or buy one that has been stripped. Say hello to triple digit hp levels. ~Josh~

I feel like I missed the memo... Board Member: ballitch Engine: OBD1 EJ22 harness, MY96' Impreza engine Chassis: 1986 GL wagon Tranny: Stock D/R 5 speed. Other: 5 lug swap, using xt6 knuckles, along with the normal 5 lug rear stuff. 02-03 WRX rims and tires, 02 WRX struts and springs. Gr-2's in the rear w/ honda accord springs. (horrible, I know) ~Josh~

You use the pres. plate, disc, and T/O bearing. My swap has 20-ish,000 mi. on it and it never slips. Did you already sort out the top passenger side motor to tranny bolt/stud? I used 2 engine studs and welded them together, after i mocked them up and cut them to the right size of course. ~Josh~

I think you can use the front axles off an impreza, I used XT6 axles with the EA82 tranny side DOJ swapped onto it. ~Josh~

My crank angle sensor wasnt plugged in one time, it took me almost 2 hours to track that down.....of course my dad came right out and pointed to it in 10 seconds. when i stripped down my harness i collected all the power wires, soldered them together, and connected it to the ign, switch on the steering column. used a tester to find the wire that was on while the key was in acc, AND On positions. then i wired the "always hot" wire to the battery with a fuse. next, i collected ALL the gorunds and soldered them together and grounded it to the chassis. worked great for me. Oh, i left the fuel pump relay and the ign relay from the legacy harness, and grounded it, so the ecu thinks its sending a signal to the fuel pump. ~Josh~

Another idea is to swap in a N/A 5 speed D/R tranny out of an 86-89(i think they made it in 89) GL wagon or 4wd sedan. unless you really want the awd, but i think D/R is better offroad. that way you can use your 23 spline axles you have. of course you wouls have to swap in the D/R tranny, but it might be worth considering. ~Josh~

for wrx front brakes you only need the rotor, the caliper, and the caliper bracket....bolts right up to the stock legacy backing plate. as for the rears, you need the 11.4'' rotor, a 02' or 03' wrx rear calipers(and pads) and the rear caliper brackets off the same car the 11.4'' rotors came from. and you have to trim/remove the backing plate/dust shield. ~Josh~

was the oil red, did it have a weird grease smell to it, if it was slightly red or any other color but motor oil color it was atf. grab 4-6 qts. of mobil 1 syn. atf, and refill. dont worry, the mobil 1 syn atf is compatible with ALL atf's. and dont forget to change your oil...the motor oil that is. ~Josh~

that block and those heads are MADE for a race car, you can rev the crap out of it with no problem and race all day on it. its not the whp that makes it good, its the fact that it wont grenade on you if you take it to the track for a day. way too much money though, jesus that thing is expensive. and IIRC the crank has a 84mm stroke...compared to the stock 79mm. ~Josh~

the crappy thing is it could be the rear main seal, which requires the engine being pulled. however, the HG set for that motor is cheap on ebay right now, you even get the cam seals. grab a rear main seal and the hg set off ebay soon, that way they get to you by the time your vacation is coming up. rent or buy an engine hoist and stand ($40 for the stand at harbor freight, money WELL spent) grab a new thermostat while your at it, it wont hurt. ~Josh~

dont you have to strip a wire harness down to do this swap? you should think about this for a second.....if you have to strip a harness down for this swap, wouldnt you want more than 90-100hp at the crank? im thinking in the neighborhood of 110-140 hp at the crank, i.e. an EJ swap. my ej22 is awesome under 2k rpms on the trail. i would suggest you do a comparison on the spfi swap vs. the ej swap. ya the ej swap is harder, and more involved as far as wiring and fitting the ej motor under your hood is concerned. i would just hate to see you spend the time and the money to do the spfi swap when you realize the ej swap isnt that different, harder, but well worth the money and time it takes to do it. but i am biased...... ~Josh~

if you switch to regular legacy struts you will gain some negative camber, right now it looks like you have about 4-5 degrees of positive. are you using the outback springs also? if so, cut about 1.5''-2.0'' off of them and stick them on the regular legacy struts, or just grab some legacy struts and springs then call it done. ~Josh~

thank god you got hit by a new car......that way you know they have full coverage. jesus, what the hell happened, i mean, come on, its the ONLY damn thing on the road that has 2 WHEELS!!!! ~Josh~

if at all possible, try to use the stock EJ exhaust, the EA one is kinda small for that motor, only thing is you will have to hack/fab up the EJ exhaust to the EA B-section exhaust. now that i said that....i'll go do it.... ~Josh~

i had 2- 10'' subs in my 86 wagon a year or two back. if you haul crap in the cargo area, forget facing the subs to the rear hatch, sure you get more dB's but it wont matter if you put a 2x4 through your sub. i angled the front of the box so it sat at approximately the same angle as the rear seat. since you have 2- 12'' subs you looking for a number around 5.5-6.0 cu. ft. thats pretty big, and you wont have too much cargo area left. have your ports come out the top of the box, the amps and cap. can be mounted on the back. or mount one amp on each side of the box. up above the wheel well arches. if your gonna throw about 750-1000 wats through this you might want to consider 4 ga. wire. its more $$ but it will be worth it. and you might want to seriously consider getting the GM alternator upgrade for you car. i went through 1 alt. a year with my 2-10's. i had no cap. and only 8 ga. wire. plus my headlights dimmed like a mo-fo when i turned it up. ~Josh~

thats how i got my 1990, but it rusty as crap and had a busted window(that i replaced) it runs great for a car with 245k miles. the shifter bushings are gone and need replacing, and the clutch slipping makes it near impossible to drive. but i got it for $250 and the clutch held out for a year before it started to slip, then it got worse of course. but mines a wagon. you could just rebuild the motor for $300-$400 and call it good, or you could pick up a used ej25 for a little bit more and throw that in there. ~Josh~

i ran your CR and got about 9.8:1 with the phase I ej25 heads. with the 50 cc phase II heads it goes down to 9.3:1. i know the phase I is supposed to have a 9.6:1 CR, but i think some of my numbers are off, thanks to ejcalcs. but you can bet that the new heads and dohc gasket will reduce your CR by about 0.5 so your looking at about 9.1:1 - 9.2:1 or so is a safe bet. which isnt too high for turbo. but not the ideal CR for turbo. ~Josh~

any EJ22 made after 1997-1998ish will have an interference engine. whether or not its valve to piston, or valve to valve interference i dont know for sure. ~Josh~