pginter96

You raise a good point. Yeah, right now with the plethora of things wrong with my poor baby, I think that running slightly rough sometimes is the least of my worries... As long as it runs another month or so I'll be fine Well, it's still good to know. Knowledge is power, right? Thanks for the help!

I'll see what I can do... The EJ25 overheated on me again today and I'm still finishing the 2.2. I just don't want to put money into something that won't make it another thousand miles... A while back I pulled some plug wires off of an EJ22 in the junkyard, measured them and the resistance was in spec. Putting the intake/ignition system together on that tonight and was disappointed to find that the coil-end was a different size. A good lesson learned from the old plug wires from the 22, one wire had 5k ohms resistance (below spec) and the one right next to it had 21k ohms resistance (way above spec). I'm imagining that's what the 25's look like. Big question is though... Wouldn't I see a misfire? Or even a consistent fault? There's been no CEL and it's been driving no worse than normal...

It ran fine yesterday and today, so I can't duplicate the concern. There's no good way to test a MAFS so it'll just have to work until I can get to the junkyard Friday. I'll pick up a "new" MAFS and hope that works...

yes, all spark plugs, wires, and coil are original. car has never overheated as boiling over, I always shut it down before then. The temp gauge has reached 3/4 of the way up 3 times in the past month or so, all after slightly revving (Under 3000) at idle. EDIT: also, no dummy light or codes, so i dont think its a misfire, or at least a consistant one

Took my car for a drive today, I live in the buffalo area thats all over the news so the cars been sitting for a few days. I usually let the engine warm up before I drive it but today I was in a hurry so just started up and drove it. As Im driving it, since I pull out of the driveway and for a solid 10 minutes after it feels as if the engine is bogging down, almost stalling so it bucks if I accelerate from 25+ Holds in gear for a little bit (a few seconds at 3000 rpm), but might just be because Im putting my foot down, it always does that. After it bogs the revs jump up, like its bucking but speeding up. The surging feels almost like tranny slip. I know it has a bit of tranny slip, I live on a steep hill and really have to give it to 'er to make it up with any sort of speed. Any tranny slip ive experienced before occurs above 4500 and lasts half a second at most. Todays occurances were at 3000. The bogging feels like the timing isnt advancing. (As i put my foot further down it bogs harder) I dont think its a trans issue as it happens in all gears. It went away mostly as the engine warmed up though. Didnt go away, but got much much better. After the engine was warm when I got home, I revved it up under the hood, with my hand pushing the throttle linkage. The engine would stutter, feel like its about to shake itself out of the car, then rev normally. I cant rev it long at idle 'cause it overheats with its leaky head gaskets. Could the head gaskets be doing this? (Probably a stupid question) All of the ignition componants are origional to my knowledge, and its pushing 85k. I was just reading on another thread last night about how ignition coils go easily on these due to heatsoak issues. Also on the same thread how upstream O2 sensors could have a similar affect to my symptoms If this is an engine problem I couldnt care less as long as it runs, its almost swap time anyways. Im worried about trans issues. I have not had the trans serviced and there are no records. I was told not to have a flush done for the first time above 80k, as it could loosen debris and cause failure sooner. Help! Please and thank you!

Thanks for the advice! So far my list is: -DAYCO Timing componant kit $160 >timing belt >tensioner and adjusting arm >3 idlers >water pump >cam and crank seals -FEL-PRO Valve cover gaskets and grommets $23 -FEL-PRO Intake Manifold gaskets $10 -FEL-PRO Exhaust manifold gaskets $5 -Timing belt cover (center section, donor vehicle hit a deer and the cover got smashed into the pulleys) $(depends on the junkyard) -Harmonic Balancer -Oil Seperator plate -UEL Headers, custom fabricated $240 -NGK plug wires -some form of high-end(ish) spark plugs (E3, Bosch, NGK,...) -maybe some minor exhaust work depending on what stays together when i take my current headers off

Probably not a bad idea. Saves me money and trouble of having heads sent out to be resurfaced (yes i read how to do it myself but dont have the space/tools/confidence to do so) What about the oil seperator? They leak on all of these engines... Anyone make aftermarket metal ones or do i have to go to the dealer?

What should I do/mark timing-wise when I take the heads off? Ill be doing the timing belt once the new head gaskets are in. Also, what should I look for to check the condition of the tensioners? And will spraying brake clean harm anything? Thanks, yall Edit: any good/bad brands for belts and tensioners I should be aware of?

Im running a Magnaflow 14832 and very happy with it. Its heavy and expensive, but provides a great sound without being obnoxious. Youll need an adapter as the inlet size is 2.25, I used a 2" to 2.25" and the 2" (OD) end slipped right over the stock 1.75. when you put your muffler on, whatever it is, DONT CHEAP OUT; WELD THE THING!!!!!! Dont clamp it! just sayin'... learned that the hard way... As for performance/milage boost from the magnaflow I cant say, as Im running UEL headers and have a leaking cat flange combined with a thermostat stuck partially closed and leaky head gaskets, so MPGs are already kinda in the toilet to start with for me...

Any advice on how to remove the harmonic balancer without an impact? Im currently using a chain wrench to hold the pulley with one hand while using a breaker bar on the bolt with the other hand, but thats pretty cumbersome and I cant get enough torque on it. As the engine is on a stand, it just spins the motor if I dont hold the pulley. Is the bolt reverse thread? Should I just break down and finally get an air compressor or battery impact?

Ive been having similar issues on my 97. All calipers are brand new, master cylender is fine and so is the booster. I bled the brakes 3 times and still had a squishy feeling pedal. Its done this since i bought the car. The only thing ive been told that actually makes sense is that its by design. With dual piston front calipers (with tiny pistons) and small rears, the calipers have to travel outwards more to provide proper braking force, especially the front dual pistons. Are your other cars dual pistons? They put them on the 2.5 cars, the 2.2 had single piston front and drum rear. It could just be a different feeling from that. Otherwise, i dont know what to say. As long as you checked for rust in the slide pins and the pads/clips where the pads go (easy ways is to check for even wear on inner and outer pads, if inside pad is worn more than outside that means something somewhere is ceased) ALSO check the brake hoses, too. If the fluid gets contaminated or the hoses age, the rubber swells to the point where it can stretch when you push the pedal, creating that soft feeling and no leaks will be noticed, cause there arent any. Its a fairly rare occurance, but it does happen. Hope this helps.

Got a pair of seats, put the drivers side in tonight. All went smoothly apart from having to use my origional seat belt buckle (and being too tired to notice until after the seat was bolted in place) and the WRX seat has an airbag inside it. I had to cut before the connector, so i simply covered and isolated the two wires. (If anyone can tell me how to disconnect that connector, i would really appreciate it! I always have bad luck with connectors and that one has me stumped.)

Awesome, thanks. I like the bolsters on them, my car was owned by a... Large-ish person before and my 135 lb self is sliding all over the seat when i go around corners

found a pair of 02 bugeye wrx hatches in my local junkyard, with good seats. First time ive seen a WRX of any kind there. Anyways, title says it all. Will they fit?

Hey, im doing the same thing! Albeit on a much slower timescale... Just make sure both engines have EGR or both engines dont have EGR. Otherwise your exhaust manifold will be the only difference. Use the flywheel from the 2.5

Hmm... Ok. Well I might go look at the car later this week, check for an EGR valve and see how far gone the underside of the car is. Thanks for the advice

A few hours ago a 98 Legacy outback went up for sale on craigslist, $500. 5 speed, 2.5 with blown head gaskets. Ive always wanted a 5 speed. Since i have a motor and that needs a motor, im comsidering looking at it... The only thing im worried about is if there are further differences between engines with auto/manual trans? I know with automatics the only difference between the ej22e and the ej25d is the flexplate (use the 2.5 flexplate) Can anyone give me some advice? Thanks. -note- this is new york. The only rust on this is bubbling around the rear wheel arches and a rust hole in the bottom of the drivers door. Pretty typical and ive seen a lot worse. (Mine's a lot worse, apart from the rusty door) If I do the engine swap how much could I sell it for? Im thinking around $2500, or at least ask that

I got to thinking... Should I just leave the thermostat as is? I havent had any more issues with the cooling system air locking lately. By what im told, the faulty thermostat is preventing the car from overheating because of the leaking head gaskets. The coolant gauge not going above 1/3 has been the same since I bought the car almost a year ago, I just blamed that on the freakin' cold winter. I guess I would rather have a car that runs a little rich as opposed to a constantly overheating engine that runs the risk of warping stuff... Yep, Ive been eyeing up a beautiful set of single port UEL headers on Ebay. Im running UEL headers on my 2.5 and love them, only have contact issues on the crossmember under the engine, a problem the single ports wont have. All I have to worry about is if there is still a flange left on the cat. Some call it rust, I call it automatic weight reduction! http://www.ebay.com/itm/subaru-2-2L-single-port-UEL-exhaust-headers-mild-steel-/221545425318?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1997%7CMake%3ASubaru%7CModel%3ALegacy%7CSubmodel%3AL%7CEngine+-+Liter_Display%3A2.2L&hash=item339522e9a6&vxp=mtr

So if theres no other differences, I should go for the california belt? Both are $59.37. Are there any differences between the 1997/1998 engines? Well due to my cooling system airlocking from time to time, Ill probably abort the head work. I dont want to be waiting on parts if/when my head gaskets finally go, and i have no idea how long head work would take. Im sure Id be happier with a stock engine than with no engine.

Ok so looking at timing belts, there are two available for this engine. A "California" spec one and a "federal" spec one. Parts numbers are different according to AllData, and the guy at the parts counter of my subaru dealer had the same results, but doesn't know the difference. Like I've previously stated, I can't do a vin check because there is no vin on my engine, just a smooth space where it should be.

Yes

Heater worked fine the rest of the day. I drove around on lunch and on the half hour drive home with no abnormal things happening. Coolant is at normal level. I picked up an OEM thermostat and some new coolant today to solve the guage issue, and ill be installing that and flushing and/or bleeding the system over the weekend. If that doesnt change anything, i better get my other engine ready for a swap! I am eager, however im also nervous. 97 EJ22E into a 97 EJ25D car, apparently it should be plug-n-play. Apparently. Worried about wiring and the electronics side of things.

Good thing I'm building an EJ22E... I just need this to last a few more months

I'll stop this afternoon and order it from the dealer. Well, I know what I'm doing this weekend...

There are bubbles in the overflow tank when the engine runs/revs. I'll try not to jump to conclusions and have a coolant flush, since it's never been done on that car to my knowledge. See if that makes a difference.