nvrquit

Battery rebounded overnight and static VDC reading with the DMM is now 12.71 +VDC. Flashing corner lamps and dash illumination lights were still occurring and a puzzle. Ignition system now worked and ATM is operable (Park interlock no longer an issue) and vehicle would start, run without hesitation at idle (in garage) and no dash warning (read that as idiot) lights displayed (though the Airbag light was displayed for a longer time than ever previously encountered, but it did go out). Hmmmm.... Battery is the original, with some corrosion present around positive terminal & clamp so, I disconnected and cleaned both + & - clamps, terminals and battery top with the standard baking soda/water mix and then a good fresh water rinse. Dried all components, cleaned clamp & teminals (posts) with a standard post/clamp tool and reconnected appropriately. Now here's why I know I should have a factory or Haynes manual. Directly in front of the battery, there's yellow decal/label on the front cross member. Guess what the text indicates regarding battery being disconnected (besides the usual radio/ECS reset deal)? The remote entry system upon reconnecting of the battery will flash the corner lamps as if the system was in "panic mode"(not all remote entry systems have such a mode) and how to reset the system to alleviate this condition ! Can anyone give me a "Duh"? Halleluiah! Following the nice instructions on the pretty little decal/label and a 20 minute road test later, things seem to be back to normal. Of course the battery will still require a spec-grav test of all cells and perhaps a night on the charger (slow rate). Replacement of said battery may be needed (well, it is the original battery after all). BTW ShawnW, all switches were checked for operational non-involvement (in other words, to make sure any/all were not the cause of any unrelated but possible confusion factor). In my past life (actually still current life, just a different stage ), I wrenched a bit before getting into the parts end of the trade. Then I got the brainy idea of going back to school... electronics. Friendly jacek: not necessarily "frying" any component, but a partial scramming or such of an EEPROM has been known to occur(though rare these days) on a varying high>low>high voltage fluctuation. Since I don't know the specifics of the AECS component composition(read that as schematic), I didn't know if this was a possible likely scenario. 1 Lucky Texan: You nailed it. I posted this response to a screen I already had open this AM before your post was present, so I never saw you response until post-post occurred( ). Are you lucky because you're in Texas or is there another reason? Just joshing with you! Thanks to all for their reply!

Here's one for the class to ponder..... Used our 96 OBW to ferry the wife to work and return home today. No problems starting, at any lights or stop signs(in other words, stopping and starting). Pulled back into garage and shut down was normal. Go to leave to pick-up wife later the same day(not unusual) and nothing at first, no dash lights, no radio(it was left on previously), no starter solenoid clicking... nada. Turn key back to Off position and then to ACC, nothing. Turn key to On, dash lights at first, then dim to nothing. No output from radio the entire time. Return key to Off position and now a constant ticking at a constant interval from under the dash area. Pop the hood and pull Main Fuse/Relay Box cover and began pulling the 45A main fuses starting with SBF #3(no change to sound), then SBF #4...Bingo, ticking sound stops. Hmmm...... Checked the battery and uh-oh, the plates are exposed and a static voltage reading is 12.74 VDC. Cleaned battery posts & cable clamps, then re-attached. Topped off all cells with distilled water(taking nearly a full quart to accomplish, not good at all) and rechecked static VDC with DMM; +12.51 VDC. Ooohhh, this is not good. Re-install SBF #4, and not only does clicking re-occur, but now the corner lamps flash as if the emergency flashers are activated... and they weren't. Hmmmm, remove interior fuse box cover and then ignition switch fuse... no effect on clicking from under dash area and corner lamps continue to flash. Track down ticking sound to Automotive Electronic Control System unit(JA64000 DX9 on label). Oh yeah, the ATM interlock in Park will not disengage either(gotta be the AECS). Waited approximately one hour and re-examined. Now the dash lights, but AECS still ticking and corner lights still flash when SBF #4 is installed(which it must be for system operation). Though, now the radio will play and dash lights are back. It's too bad I don't have factory or even Haynes manual for the current OBW's we own(96 & 99), as diagnosis would be a bit easier with some system info. It's too bad the battery charger was somehow lost when we moved last year, as I'd slow charge the battery and spec-grav the cells, to see if the battery is shot(most likely is) and I'm also wondering if the AECS might have been affected by a varying voltage level(I've seen EEPROM's scrambled in a similar manner). I'll try a battery swap-out with the 99 OBW and see what that effects. Anyone got a suggestion that's worthwhile? Thanks for any feedback!

To all that have been following our 96 & 99 OBW saga's, here's an update. The 99 OBW has now had it's second reman. 4EAT installed. The 2nd reman. 4EAT is not 100% in porper operation either, with rough up & downshifts when driven outside of the "granny" cruise around town mode(and few times even when driven in that manner). To add to this, now the 99 OBW has a very demonstrative torque bind shudder that was never present with the original or 1st reman 4EAT. Just what the heck goes here?!? Notified the dealer and they seem as frustrated as I, to which I can understand. Agreed to a future date on which both I and their lead mech. can be in the car together while road testing. Thing is, there is no descernable pattern to the rough shifting, as it isn't always present(even in agressive driving modes). On a happier note(if a $900-plus repair bill can be such!?!), the 96 OBW has had the torque bind issue addressed and to date all things appear to be okay. In all, these two Subies have been extremely disappointing, in comparison to our past Subie ownership. To wit, I have taken the time to compose a letter to SOA. This will be sent to multiple sources at SOA, via reg.\cert. USPS, with delivery notification. I do this as I've found that only telephoning in instances such as this have had very little affect. I'll post the results of both the letter(s) and the continuing 99 OBw saga. Later.....

Again, thanks for the feedback from those that have posted! Clutchbob, Yeah, wrench turning wasn't bad for a living. It just turned out that not only did physical issues become a concern(the back and others, which I can truly trace to football and hockey from younger days), but it also became a "love/hate" thing. I really loved the actual doing but I hated being limited to the "just a job" ness of it. In the early days, I wrenched WERA bikes for two different riders. Tough going with production two-strokers(Yamaha RD400 twins) against the guys that could afford a TZ250(any mod) factory bike. Very narrow margin in more than one way. Top that off with a kid rider(not that I was that much older in physical age) that didn't listen to recommendations and....., well it gets old very quickly. I just couldn't wrench a machine to only the "that's good enough" standard that almost every place dictated and by that time the taste for going my own way(as in my own business) had vanished. No sympathy required for me, just the way it worked out and I'll live with that as a fact of life. Now, as an ET with my AST, A+ and network certs, it doesn't bother me to "just make it work" when it comes to PC and other electronic components. Perhaps I'll finish out for the BA someday, who knows. On the 4EAT front, I'll be scheduling with the dealer on Monday for when to have the 99 OBW in for the 2nd replacement. When I do that, I'll run down(or try) the particulars that the dealer feels are the faults with the current 4EAT(1st replacement reman) and the original 4EAT. I'll post whatever they divulge. Until that time, later....

Again, thanks to all for the feedback! Now, to the good( ) stuff..... Well, I just got off the phone with the local dealership. Yet another reman. 4EAT is going into the 99 OBW to replace the first reman. 4EAT that replaced the original tranny. I'll post the continuing saga. With the research on this board and others, we've concluded that we'll have the torque bind issue resolved by going with the upgrade(steel sleeved) components. Unfortunately, this will not be under warranty. Perhaps a few nice registered letter to select individuals at SOA, detailing our past Subbie loyalty and recent travails will cause a break in our favor. Can't hurt to try!

Thanks to all for the fellow commiseration, must be that "misery loves...." thing. I would still appreciate any feedback on the 2001 through 2004 Legacy and OBW series. I've researched the commercial periodicals but I've found that it's always better to get the straight poop from actual owners. This way you get a more "real world" feel for what the vehicle's tendencies may be in all aspects. Thanks again for any feedback!

I've just registered on this site after lurking for a bit. Nice amount of info to be found here. I've always owned at least one Sube, starting with my new 1980 4WD blue wagon up to our 96 & 99 OBW's. Though we are currently in a bit of quandry, as it seems that what was Subaru rugged reliability has gone the way of the wind. The 99 OBW has had it's 4EAT replaced under Gold Plus coverage and the 96 OBW has just had the oil pump replaced, has the infamous torque bind biting at it's heels and an ignition hesitation that sometimes leads to total shutdown/stall that no dealer can determine what's the cause of(codes are indeterminate, so the dealers all say). The repairs were performed at 48K & 42K miles respectively. The real topper is the replacement 4EAT in the 99 OBW is now starting to show signs that it too is not in healthy condition, just some 6.5K miles later. Sorry that this post seems to be a bit "whinny" (and no cheese to go with this, thank you), but after 6 Sube's ending with a terrific 94 Legacy AWD wagon, the last three have been very disappointing. The 95 Legacy AWD sedan was very sound mechanically, but no dealer(three different places) could correct a water leak in/around the RR door. Now the two OBW's saga currently. What's the real word on the 2001 thru 2004 OBW, Legacy & Forester series? I ask as I know that the popular review rags don't always have the deeper info on reliabilty. Thanks for any feedback! BTW, my background was in motorcycles(AMI grad and wrench for years), then automotive until going back to school for electronics.