AnotherGL10guy

I agree with Vegablade. You could even get a coil insert style deal, not the best setup but great for a couple size bigger tires. an inch or so suspension plus bigger better tires will make a WORLD of difference you would be surprised where those cars will go with good tires. and with the way things are tucked in under the car a skid would make for a fun Baja! Find some used tires, do some trading or whatever u can. good luck!

looking good man I cant believe what you have done! Keep up the great killer work and keep us posted! I want to see this running SOON please. with video! 300+ hp please! and get 20k miles outta her!

AK Ill try that. I think now its a HLA Lifter on Pass side head. I may have missed one of those oil galley veins that suply oil to the lifter/cam.. its not major noise just when cold.car runs OK now, has plenty of power and is quite "Quik" really LOL. soon (2 months MAX) EJ22 here we come. going to build a decent mild Hi-Comp dual port SOHC OBD2 ej22. hope for about 150 reliable HP, no more no less. more in torque

i want.

any news? this is NICE! wanted to ask you, when you stopped off in Oregon, was the VW lover guys name Brigham by chance? bigger guy, curly hair? would be a trip if so!

sweet Brat man, very very nice work so far! and never worry too much about the old Joints, i just whack'em off as hard as I can. Bearings can be a Biatch in these oldies tho! good luck!

nice ride! dude, it aint hard to make other subie rads fit in.

so do people read this once and never come back? feeling a bit left out LOL. kiding. OK on a serious note, does anyone have any initial or further thoughts after watching the vid and hearing that clacking sound? and on another note, if you saw my other PROBLEM thread, maybe you can help with my other problem as well.... When its cold the ECS light does not come on with the ignition key on and the car will not start due to the pump not coming on. installed a new fuel pump RELAY, tore the Brain (ECS) out and apart, all looks fine. when I put a heat gun to the ECS or the pump itself, the light will flicker on and car will eventually start. Its a very odd issue. So question is, if the Fuel Pump is bad, will that cause the ECS light to not come one with the rest of the dummy lights when I turn the ignition ON? When I plug the green check plug together its the same deal unless something is warmed up. Its very cold out last few days, car does fine unless the temp drops below 30 or so. thanks a bunch for any help guys and gals!

holy crapola i never seen anything like that where someone writes a sentence this long with no periods is that normal if so how and i knew a guy once who tried it and ddint work out i also tried it and it did work out but from amile away it was fine. hehe

yep he said it. if you know for sure its coming from BEHIND the covers then those are the options. if its below that it could be the oil pump or filter mount. if you have leaks there i would imagine the whole engine needs re-sealed and your rear main also likely has a leak. big or small you wont know untill tear down. the good part, these motors are super easy to pull, to seal maybe not so much but not bad..

I thoughtn it would run like really bad if the belts slipped a notch?? it runs great. also I just put brand new timing belts, tensioners and rebuilt the heads complete. the thing doesnt leak or burn a drop of oil. ILL CHECK this tho Miles Fox thank you. EDIT**** Miles, timing is OK, all is good there. ANYTHING ELSE GUYS????

yeah sorry about that bad audio, but you can hear it through all that racket best toward the end of the video. It really sounds like a "" Diesel Engine "" to me, mind you this dissipates after driving awhile. even with the issues and bad compression reading it runs great down the road! (could be my test meter) oh and Im sorry, I looked at the bottle and the oil I used in the car is 10w-40 Royal Purple. not sure why I thought it was 5-30, maybe thats whats in my Jeep...my bad. I really want to run about 11-12 psi boost, set timing to about 22 BTDC, run 92 octane and have a fun healthy motor till I swap the EJ in.

very very imformative thread, this is KILLER!!! I was seriously thinking about building a bad rump roast EA82 turbo when I do my EJ swap. just take my time. GOAL:: To have 150-175 RELIABLE hp from my EA82T. Not greedy. Just run a modded TD04, TMIC, 12-14psi boost, and NOT blow head gaskets. I already re-sealed this motor and upped the boost by 2psi without issues so far (except the motor sucking already). FP Head Gaskets are holding up so far at the over torqued 65 lb ft. I have a question though. when I tore into this motor, I could swear I saw flat top pistons. I do not remember seeing any dish or valve reliefs at all. I could be wrong but if I am not is this normal? I saw in one of your pics the stock pistons had a dish machined in them pretty big. pretty sure mine were just flat........hmmm. cool thread anyways and thanks!

I also want to say that I did perform a Compression Test on all 4 Cylinders and the result was not good. I do have a very old crappy tester and its a push in style and the valve has a slight leak so I cant say for sure till i get it into my shop at school, but I read #1- 110psi #2- 85psi #3- 125psi #4- 110psi this is at full Opp temp. Also did the oil test to test rings and it did not change. when I rebuilt this engine the heads were cracked both pretty good between the valves but when I performed a pressure test all was fine. I replaced every seal and gasket the kit cam with (LOTS!) and never did test Compression until yesterday. so who knows. the more I retard the timing the better the sound gets (until its warm of course) but it runs like crap. runs awesome when set at 20-25 BTDC but has a bad knock untill driven for awhile.

SORRY for the bad quality, phone is all i had. you can really hear it towards the last 1/3 or so of the vid when I go back down close and hit the throttle a few times. THE CAR SOUNDS LIKE CRAP IN THE VID BECAUSE THE BELTS MAYBE, BUT IN PERSON ITS ACTUALLY VERY SOUND BESIDES THIS COLD ONLY ISSUE. SOUNDS LIKE A FAST WOODPECKER OR A DIESEL ENGINE, ITS VERY SLIGHT BUT YOU CAN HEAR IT. my timing is set to 15 BTDC, if i go more retarded on it it lessens the knock, if I set it at 15 or higher advanced it get more. engine has 92 octane fuel in it now. Vac Advance does work and is hooked up. WHAT IS IT? AND JUST FOR YOUR ENJOYMENT!!

haha Yes I know. I was just making fun, Bubs is my FAV Character ever!! heres a good point. I drove down to Seattle for work and onmy way home i filled up with mid grade (89oc) from some crap hole station DT, while driving home I got to about south Everett and it started popping so bad I thought I was going to break down, it would come and go. If I revved it waaay up and pegged it it would clear up sometimes then 5 minutes later happen again. I blew my headlights revving it up to 6k, found out my alt. was over blasting everything.... Also my fuel tank purge was not working. threw some 92 oc fuel in, replaced alt. and opened up the purge and it was OK after that. point being, I always ran 87 oc b4 this trip, never really thought about the turbo needing hi-octane ratings. I advanced the timing to aboutn 25 BTDC, ran 92 for the last 2 months and it has been fine, till this little trip to the hills and I started hearing this noise. Oh and the oil is really expensive oil so maybe Ill just add some Lucas white bottle to thicken it up?? Ill try and get a vid for ya. thanks for the input!! yes i did thats why I posted that comment LOL. all in fun!

NICE!! so is it a 4x4? I know the DL usually are not, but it has a 5MT? thats strange for an 83 right? thought they were 4 speeds. but if it has the 1.6L I could see that being an option?? anyone?

Bellingham huh? Let me know if you need some help!

you either dont read b4 you post, or cant read, or dont care. LOL

yes this is correct. 25 is stock recommended timing on this turbo MPFI flapper engine. I was wondering if any of you might know where I should run my timing for the mods I have. ALSO I run 92 octane in it ALWAYS. right now its at 15 BTDC. seems to have the best power all the way through at this setting. Maybe i should run lower Octane gas? to retard the timing thats towards the 0 mark or?? Yes i still run vacume advance. The Engine has been romped by the PO and was bought with both head gaskets SHOT. I inspected and re-built the entire engine but main bearings. does not burn a drop of oil! thanks so much!

Hello again. Fixed the last problem(thank you).....now this! its my girlfriends car I built for her since she has always wanted one and UNTIL I Can afford an EJ22 please dont tell me to swap, I know, I know...... This just started happening, ran great and still does but when its cold the engine seems to be making a very slight Knocking noise, maybe a lifter, maybe timing is off? heres the specs... wrx intercooler 2 row Rad with dual electric fans, new coolant and thermo. 10psi big header and exhaust straight through, no CAT. 225-70-14 tires and 4 inch lift. (never see's much off-road) 5-30 Royal Purple Oil deleted ALL smog stuff Knock Sensor is GONE but I have never heard it ping or knock at all...problem? most everything else is stock except all the re arranged Vacume and EGR blocked off. She drives it like a Grandma, shifts at about 3500 rpm, I keep telling her to shift higher like 4000 but, we will get there! the engine and car have very low miles, the engine is super sound and runs so very quiet, no ticking of any kind other than noise from Injectors! Until now, NOW THIS... This started after a trip to the hills and a long day of running non stop and about 150 miles. she never got hot once and ran fine. next day I go out to start it (very cold out) and its a slight knocking sound when we get on it only, not noticed at idle. This is the 4th day, I only notice it when its first start then it dies off. Engine has plenty of power and runs fine. I am just worried is all! Timing is set at about 15*btdc and was set at 20 before this. Could the change be why? maybe I screwed something up? its hard to explain but it also struggles when cranking it to start, after it rotates a few times, almost like pre-ignition, like "jiga-jiga-jiga-jiga-jiga UUUURG- jiga jiga- VAroooom", and idles great after that! Like a car Hicup when cranking it over to start it. no back fire or anything, just a hard spot. I think its timing related, it only does it sometimes. so sorry for the long azz story. Whats your take? Got any clues? am I wrecking her moooter as we drive it? whats the timing for an EA82 turbo with a few mods and 10psi boost? Should I have the timing MORE or less Numerical BTDC? And is Advancing the timing mean going DOWN or UP Numerically in the BTDC range? Woooot should I do to the moooter? thanks so much again!

this is an amazing trip! nice brat, nice work and thanks for sharing!

well it wasnt quite as cold this morning but still pretty darn bitter and it decided to start right up. Not 100% sure but it may have been just the relay not wanting to "click" on in the cold. strange but I wont know for sure for a couple days.

you guys are great for replying thanks so much!! 175ya, I would think that could be, and I did take out the ECS (ECU) and un-screwed the cover from it to look inside, it looks very clean and I did not see any bad connections. Although this does not mean the plugs make good connection. I have tried wiggling all the plugs, wires and connections i can find related while having the KEY ON waiting for this ECS lite to pop on, NOTHING... only thing that seems to make any difference it warming it up a tiny bit. Gloyale, (its a 86 GL10 turbo wagon, ECU is under the steering column and relays are mounted above the ECU)..... I have had the motor and trans out 3 times in the short time i have had the car, I have also re-arranged all said Grounds. Maybe this could be a problem. but because its cold? odd to me. It has run great and started fine every mornin except just recently when the temp dropped from 50 to 20 in a matter of a days time. as soon as it started being so cold in the mornin this starting happening. on another note, I went to the parts store today and bought a so called fuel pump relay ($20.63 out the door) and put it in to see if it does the trick in the morning. with the way the ECS lite works tho i dont see how it can be this. Hope I didnt burn 20 bucks for nothing. if i turn the key on after it is running during the day and all is well, the ECS lite is on (car not running just key is ON)... I then UNPLUG the relay and nothing different happens, lite stays on, car will not run without it plugged in. Same story for morning when the car will not start....Turn key ON, unplug the relay, nothing, plug it back in, nothing. I would thing a connection but I have tried almost everything (except the grounds Gloyale Mentions!!!!)... I will give that a shot tomorrow in class. I am a student at BTC for the Master Auto tech Program! Also, does anyone know if I can just BYPASS all this crap and run a toggle to the pump? maybe just flip it on when I start the car? or run it to an ignition Acc wire and toggle for safety?? I have done thius in the past but not with a FI turbo car, only on old 81-83 2 door Carby's.. I really thank you all for any further info and thoughts. ANYTHING helps at this point. Thanks! Ryan

Hello, thanks in advance for any input. I tried searching relentlessly and found NOTHING. sorry in advance for the long rump roast story. I NEED HELP!!! I have an 86 turbo wagon, MPFI turbo with intercooler, boost control, lift and lotsa small mods. That said the fuel system and ECU are stock... first off, the car has been rebuilt almost COMPLETEly, and for the last year has driven and run VERY nice for the ol EA82Turbo! runs stock boost, and has been gently driven, not abused. car is super clean and has under 120k miles. STORY, PROBLEM and QUESTIONS........ Its has been very cold lately and I have found my car does not like to wake up early on cold mornings. Ill go to start it and.... nothing (crank no start issue). no fuel pump... I plug in the ECS green plug to trigger Ignition Switch and fuel pump relay while key is ON, and the ECS light starts to flutter/blink after about 5 minutes of warming up the ECS (under dash). I use a 12v heater thing bought from Harbor Freight to blow warm air on the ECS then it will start to blink the ECS light faster, then all the sudden it will start working and the fuel pump relay will start clicking and pump will work and car starts and runs fine all day, till the next morning that is!! I have been having this issue for 2-3 weeks now and figured out the ECS wants to be warm my mistake one day. Without warming it up the car will NOT start. I can drain the battery trying (good strong charging system and Batt) to crank it and, NOTHING. I turn key on and off, hit fuel pump with screw driver, all that stuff LOL. as soon as I start to warm up that ECS I see the ECS trouble light start to blink on. Mind you, its OFF before this and should come ON with ignition key in the ON position and does not untill warmed up.. This problem happen with the green plug connected or not, either way. Its just that plugged in I can sit there with the key on and listen for things to start working. The ECS light flickers the same as I warm it up either way. Is this a Common ECS problem for these cars? I really dont think its the relay, seems to be the ECS. or maybe it is the relay? I buggered with the relay and found it seems to be fine. REALLY seems to be the ECS brain. I tested the leads to the pump while it was having the issue and it gets no power to pump even while cranking. I also tested the pump on a cold morning and it fires fine. I hope I was clear enough for some answers and help. Possible Solutions..... Bypass ECS and run a toggle to fuel relay and pump? fix Computer? if any other please help. How? where? why? thanks again to the awesome Subaru community!!