Dania02525

Thanks, I reached out to him, but it looks like he hasn't been online since 25 Feb, so I'll wait to hear back. In the mean time, I'm talking with RetroRoo about a bit more specifics on how he does the swaps. Denver is certainly an easier ride from Texas than Oregon, but I'm really most concerned with who's going to do a bang up job on it. Whoever does it, I'll definately request that they update the project on the board here (preferably with photos) so all of you can ride along with me as the car comes together :-)

The paint needs to be done- eventually. I'm not super picky on it, and I was considering an easy to paint color like a gunmetal mettalic or something anyway. Its probably something that could be sprayed pretty easily and still come out good enough for me. My other option is Mexico- they can do a nice job there for pretty cheap if I go that route. I'm mostly concerned with the mechanicals, wiring, and the interior stuff. How do you guys get the HVAC doors working? My cables are all old and cracked and I can't change where the air comes out reliably. If it can be done by someone, great- but if not, that is something I'd probably get a bunch of servos and convert to a fully electrical setup myself.

Thanks for the tip, I'll definately consider him- Is he on the board here? How is it for performance/handling? how to expect the axles to hold up with the lift? any shaking or odd noises?

Why do you want that off? do you not want heat?

Although the brat in your profile pic looks like its having fun, I'm thinking something a little tamer ;-)

I was not aware of RetroRoo- I'll definately give him a call about it- Thanks for the tip!

I totally understand this. I've got a solid, straight brat without rust but which is worn from the years and is showing its age in lack of technology. Considering the depreciation I would lose out on when buying a $25k toyota, I think its perfectly reasonable to spend $5-8k on putting my brat together. Also, I prefer to stay away from banks and credit, and prefer to stay away from required emissions tests and associated BS with 25 year and newer cars.

I'm thinking about having someone do a full ej swap, with 5sp trans, power steering, wiring, etc in my 82 brat. If I had the space or time, I would do it myself, but unfortunately I do not. So I come to you, experts of USMB. I know some of you are capable, so could you do it for me? I'm considering doing this instead of dropping a sizable downpayment on a new or newish tacoma, but those trucks really aren't exactly what I want. I want a fully restored brat. I'm in texas, but if I decide to do it and find the right person to do it, I can bring the car anywhere in the lower 48 to you, and leave it with you for as long as you need it. Here's what I would want: EJ swap + wiring 5 sp power steering pugs and 2-4" lift Interior and paint, if you know someone. (I've got some spare interior parts) If you do it, you can have a clean ea81 with new weber carb and whatever other parts from the brat you don't use. I know this isn't the proper forum for it, but I want to make sure this gets seen by the real experts on here. If there are any questions about what I'm looking for, post them on here. If you've got an idea of what the cost of something like this would be (you do the work and find the parts needed) please PM me. Thanks!!!!

I want that front brush guard!

Perhaps these were answered someplace, but I wasn't able to find enough. I'm considering going from the small valve EA81 heads to the larger valve ones, via machine shop work at RAM performance. I trust them to do an awesome job since thier engines keep planes in the air, but I'm just wondering if this is worth it to do. Obviously it will flow better, but it it really worth $700? I'll also be doing a FI conversion from an 88 ea82 car, so I know thats where the majority of the power increase will come from for my currenly single barrel carter setup. Anyone done just the valves and have an idea of how much the increased flow matters? Edit: I should mention that Ron at Ram performance plans on doing a 5 angle valve job, and including new SS valves and new brass guides.

The EMPI one looks beefier? than the one I recieved from Oreilly. Better boot material too. It is apparently new as well and came with an axle nut unlike the one from Oreilly's.

This. Its true that if our engines were operating at 100% efficiency already, thermodynamics would make it impossible to extract any additional energy from a lower potential energy substance- like water. The problem with this is that our engines don't operate anywhere near 100% efficiency, and there are as mentioned by ferox a myriad of factors going into that level of efficiency. A car engine is not a perfect heat engine- its operation and power output is not precisely dependent on its total energy input, but also the speed of the reaction. Something that could speed up this reaction itself or facilitate this reaction happening faster could increase its power without adding any additional sources of energy to the system (think catalyst). The real question is whether the amount of whatever you put into this system is enough to meaningfully affect the efficiency. If you consider how much O2 is used by an engine, as well as how much elemental H is used (that in the fuel), I think you would need massively more than what's being produced here. There could be some other mechanism at work here however. The hotspots produced from leaning out the engine could perhaps be offset by some localized water vapor conducting the heat away better than the CO2 exhaust. Or the elemental H2 is acting as an ignition primer for the fuel vapor in the combustion chamber. The problem with this idea is that you need 4x more H2 in a given area to reach the same flammability as gasoline vapor, which means you would need to be producing 4x more H2 than total gasoline vapor delivered by volume- alot!!! Edit: yes, there are engines running on h2, but they use extremly high pressure tanks to carry enough fuel to go anywhere. This is because much of the thermal energy that makes our engines turn is a result of the C-H bonds, and the burning of C rather than the burning of H. You also need lots of volume of H2 to reach the levels it needs to burn.

I can definitely have the fabric manufactured, I'll just have to research some snap in railings for it. I'll use my 2nd Gen as a template and keep everyone updated

Since this thread is back from the dead- I thought I might ask here- I work for a cover manufacturer, so I could probably have a really pro looking soft tonneau cover made for the 2nd gen ones. I'm not sure what to do for attachements or railing, so if anyone has any idea, let me know. I'd love to make it as simple as possible- as close to bolt on as can be. I have access to weathermax fabric, which is marine rated and stands up in use as sail covers, so I think it would last quite well as a tonneau cover. If there is interest on the forum, I can measure my car and make a prototype..

*she Fixed that for ya :-)

I was thinking to do this, but that oil pump surface is to really tight tolerances, and uses a really thin paper gasket. I also need a clutch anyway....

^^The EA82 has a fan clutch, and my ea81 has an electric fan^^ One trick you can do with the 14mm hex is to take a spare 14mm bolt- put two nuts on it super tight together, and put the head into the plug you need to take out. you can then use a regular socket going over both nuts on the bolt. Probably would be better to have the right tool though ;-)

This is beautiful. I would love to do a cad model of this and open source it on the form for anyone to 3d print. Looks like it would have like nothing on the low end with the carbs being so close to the valves- thats like strictly high RPM resonance. With the CAD model, it could be determined what the resonance peak would be for a given airflow, and the pipe could be tuned to optimize it for certain rpm set ups.

22mm for crank pulley bolt, 19mm for ball joint bolt (I think) as well as wheel nuts , and a quite large one- I think its 32mm for the axle nuts. You'll need a small like 1/8" punch to knock the roll pin from the axle also. I've found an 8mm hex key needed for some things here and there as well. The 13mm will also go for the main skid plate under the engine, while the side skit plates are 10mm. Ratcheting wrenches are a lifesaver for this car, I have found. You do not need wrenches for the 19mm and 22mm, 32mm sizes, since you won't be able to get them in there anyway. Also, and this is a little odd, but I use a 5.5mm socket with tiny 1/4 bar (not ratchet) to hold the valve adjusters with a 12mm on the locking nut to adjust my valves. I've heard subaru makes a magic tool for this though lol. You would of course need a shim guage set too Thats for an ea81- if you have an ea82, it will probably be different. If you have a hydro lifter ea81, you won't need the valve adjustment things edit: it isn't a 5.5mm for the valve adjuster, its actually some odd SAE size- like 7/32 or something

I thought I would post this for anyone searching on what the worst thing that could happen while changing your oil pump. Mine was siezed in there, and I tried all the tricks to get it to move- left the oil filter on, tried to break it free and nothing, no movement at all. kept at it until it broke, leaving half of the oil pump inside the block and aluminum shards everywhere. I had to chisel it out of there, which in retrospect was probably not the brightest thing to do on an aluminum block, but what else to do- I had to get the pieces out of there. Needless to say, I ended up with some nicks in the block in addition to the corrosion spots already there. I did my best to clean them up, removing the high spots without taking too much aluminum off. I then put a skim coat of permatex ultra copper RTV on both sides of the gasket, and put it together. After a day to dry, it leaks :-(. I guess I'm pulling the engine now, hopefully the machine shop can resurface it without having to fully take the engine apart but I'm not sure :-/ Cleaned up, but still ugly: Skim coat of RTV- a hail mary that didn't work :-( Moral of the story: DONT MESS YOUR BLOCK UP!

I've got the carter weber 1bbl on mine- all of the feedback mechanisms jammed up and stopped working, so I broke off the 'altitude adjuster' which is the round plastic thing on the top right of the carb which actuates the top flapper. I just unplugged everything else from it. Bend the pieces in there in such a way that it does not "lock" itself in position, and attach an aftermarket choke cable to the thing that used to be hooked to the temperature/thermo spring inside the plastic housing (the gold looking part, not the silver one that gives you high idle). (I broke my housing to get it out- just make sure you don't get plastic pieces in the carb). I used a throttle lock kit from a 4x4 store, but you could probably get a choke cable from a tractor store or something too. Now I have a manual choke, which pulls on the altitude adjuster flapper of the carb. I even put a little throttle sping on it to pull it to the full open position, so when I pull on the cable, it closes it. It is a major hack, but the car idles great, starts in the cooler weather, and the mixture can be adjusted at will. I've found that it pings if the flapper is 100% open, so I run it just a tad closed. I realize that this is super redneck, but the weber carb kit is not without its problems- like the coolant leak problems, the clearance issues, etc etc. Also, the weber is $400, plus we would need to change the intake manufold to use it.

I'm actually down in Texas, but I grew up in NY on the CT border. My father had a car dealership and had TONS of these things, and over the years, they have completely disappeared. On the whole road trip, the time driving it around in new england up to VT, and around down here in Texas I have yet to see another one. I think all the brats left in the US are on this forum!

Sadly some idiot sideswiped my boat 10 miles from home :-( at least I was able to get the car out of her way.

nice one!, I towed a boat back and loaded the car on the way back. It did ok, but I had to do 35mph up all the mountains between New York and Austin, and there are alot! check out mine on the way back:

Daily driver here- fixing the Ac, already fixed the radio, what else do you need?? Its certainly not the slowest car I ever driven, plus its cool and earns respect. It may sound crazy for most to think an 82 would make a good daily driver, but if you have the money to put it together right and you watch your guages, its a fine car to drive everyday. Remember, we aren't talking about an MG or something, this is a japanese made car.