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toni1595

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About toni1595

  • Birthday 03/13/1959

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Bangor
  • Occupation
    Maintenance
  • Ezboard Name
    toni1595
  • Vehicles
    1995 Legacy

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  1. That's one thing that I failed to mention, the AT temp light is blinking. IIRC it was blinking 16 times when it's started. I'll try the fuse, I had forgotten about that one. But I would prefer this to have the 4wd working, if given the choice that is.... Not sure how long they ran this with the binding, but I think he might have said a few months. They were running it into the ground I think, some idiot like me thinks that I can save it from the crusher. Of course I've had such longevity from these that I know it will run for a while yet. The engine sounds really good to me. If I can get the bugs out of it, should make a good car to fall back on when one of the others is out of commission. I do have another option on the power steering, there's one at the junkyard for $35.00, could go that way.
  2. Thanks Fairtax, I didn't realize that the kit that Rock Auto sells was w/o all of the parts, I guess I'll have to remove this from "my cart" and look around more. So drain and refill the tranny 3 times and that's it? I have read about some solenoid called a "duty C solenoid" that is supposed to cure this, are you saying that this isn't necessary? That will be a big help right there.... Also I've read about some clutch packs that can be replaced too, sounds very labor intensive to me. I'm not real up on this "torque bind", but I know when I test drove it, it felt like it was binding, like it was trying to go into 4wd or something. And my son in law said that it was wearing tires, I believe on the front prior to them taking it off the road. Is that one of the symptoms? Toni
  3. Hey all, if you've been following this at all, I have acquired my younger daughter's 1995 Legacy. I figured I'd make this a 3rd vehicle, as a backup. This is what I knew going in: It does have some rust, but I know how to deal with that. It had a severe oil leak at the rear of the engine....as you may know, I found that the notorious separator plate was leaking. So I pulled the motor and replaced the plate, while in there, I replaced all of the seals that I could find as well , rear main, any covers that were exposed, etc. I also was aware of a buggered up end on the crankshaft/timing gear because I had repaired this a few years back and I wasn't sure how it would hold up, well it didn't, so I took a TIG welder and rebuilt the woodruff keyway, ground, filed and sandpapered it back to size with a Dremel and also Loctited this on,so now it "should" stay put. I hope. (This design leaves something to be desired) OK, I knew that I needed to change the rear struts as this was bottoming out on bumps, so I bought struts from Rock Auto, but then I learned that the springs are what really lifts this up. So far I haven't been able to find a viable set of springs, except at the dealer, and at $86.00/ea. prepaid, I'm still looking...... I haven't gotten to this because now the weather has turned too cold and I don't have a garage. I'll get back to it next Spring, but I want to prepare as much as I can prior to that. I also found after test driving that the power steering pump is leaking (this helps explain where some of the oil that was on top of the engine was coming from) and it also has the infamous "torque bind", at least that's what it acts like to me anyways based on what I've read here. My questions are: 1) Can the power steering pump be removed without disconnecting the hoses, so I can rebuild it where it's warm? 2) What is the best route to take when addressing this "torque bind" issue? (I know the tires are all relatively the same size.) Sorry for the long story, but I wanted to let you know what was going on with this project. Thanks, Toni
  4. $86.00/ each for the springs at my nearest dealer. That's pretty pricey in my opinion... I'll keep looking around I guess. Toni
  5. Thanks for you quick replies. Imdew, not sure what these are, I got them from Rock Auto. This car is a 1995 Legacy 4wd sedan. How much and what are the condition of these springs that you have? I'd be concerned about the $$$$'s for shipping too, as they would be fairly heavy. heartlesss, thanks for that info. I took a look around and it seemed to evade me. Yes I do have some offset wrenches at my disposal. Fairtax4me, I didn't realize that these were for European models, that kind of makes sense. I'll check my local Subaru dealer and also online too. I'm a little surprised that the struts don't have the springs as a unit from Rock Auto like some others that I've purchased in the past. Toni.
  6. Hey all, According to some of the posts that I've read, I guess I should be replacing the springs as well as the struts in this 1995 Legacy. I bought the struts earlier this year, but have not installed them yet. The main reason was to help lift the rear end of this car up. I'm reading that in order to do that, you must replace the springs too. However when I look up the springs in Rock Auto, it lists a bunch of odd descriptions like, Legacy II, MKII, (BD and BG). What does all this stuff mean? Will these springs still fit a regular Legacy sedan? And by the way, how the heck do you get to the top of the strut mount? Is it hiding under the plastic somewhere? Thanks, Toni.
  7. OK, I have the engine all back in and seems to be running fine. Actually haven't worked on this for a few weeks, but I seem to have developed another problem since I started removing the engine, torque bind. At least that's what I think it is anyways. I can feel a definite binding in the rear when I'm driving it. Question is, will it clear itself or will I need to intervene? I thought I read somewhere that a battery that is low will cause this too, is that true? I know when I first started it, it would barely turn over from sitting so long, but it did start. Also, I intend to change the rear struts because the back end will bottom out when you go over a good bump. My question is, should I change the springs as well as the struts? I already have purchased the struts, but not the springs..... And does anyone here know how to access the tops of the strut mounts? They must be under the seat cushions I guess??? Just sitting here in the rain and gloom in the Great State of Maine. Thanks
  8. I'm sorry Shawn, but that can't be the correct torque value. I believe you are referring to the drive plate to crank end, I think that is about right for that. These are the bolts that are connecting the drive plate to the torque converter and they are only 8mm, so at that torque, I would fear breaking them off. I didn't detect any movement in the crank when I had it tore down, so I'm keeping my fingers crossed. I have resealed the oil pump already the last time this crapped out, in fact I did all of the oil seals on the front section of the motor. Hopefully that will hold up. On the bolt torque, I did finally get an answer from the local Subaru dealer, they are saying it's 18 ft/lbs, so I'm a little high I guess at 35. Toni.
  9. Well I had the engine out, repaired the crankshaft nose where the woodruff keyway was chewed out (TIG welded the worn area and dremeled it back to a good keyway again), loctited the crank gear this time, resealed all of the possible oil leak covers, replaced the rear main seal and harmonic balancer, installed the new timing belt and water pump and now have the engine back in. My question now is: what is the torque value for the 4 bolts that hold the drive plate to the torque converter? I do have an All Data subscription and it doesn't say. I emailed them and they couldn't give me an answer either. Does anyone on this forum know what this may be? They are only 8mm I think, so it would most likely be in the 30-40 ft.lb range I suspect. I know this has gone on for a while, but it seemed to rain every weekend up here and this has really only been a part time project. Thanks
  10. Attaching photos

  11. Well I have the motor out and trying to decide whether to replace the rear main seal or not...It does look like it has some oil or grease spots around the seal face, but I can't say if it's really leaking or not. Would be real easy to do with this out though and I do have quite a bit of experience replacing oil seals as I have been in the maintenance field for most of my working life. So do I or don't I? This does have 254K on the odometer, so it has some time on it. Also what is the other small cover that's across from the separator plate? Does this have a gasket too? And which hole does the pre-loctited screw go into? I'll probably notice it when I remove the plastic one I guess. Thanks
  12. Well that don't sound all that bad then.....I check these spots carefully when I clean the top of this up and see if I can see anything that looks new. Thanks
  13. Well I'm finally getting to this engine pull. I do have one question. There appears to be some amount of oil on the top of the engine block itself. I can't see where it would have come from except for maybe the gaskets on the head. Does that sound plausible or is there some other reason that the oil is sitting there? It seems to be on both sides on the top, of course it is mixed in with a bunch of dirt and debris, which I am planning on cleaning up some. Has anyone seen this type of thing before? Should I consider replacing the head gaskets? Thanks
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