Tat2Brat

Thanks but I've done all the math and all those would make my XT still sit higher than it did originally unless i get coil springs that are 4 inches high effectively cutting the upward travel of even the shortest lowering strut down to unawesome numbers. The reason for that is the front wheel drive version of the xt4 sat lower than the xt6 FWD or 4WD. All those options you mentioned would work but for strut travel,price of future replacement struts (vw rabbit strut inserts are gonna cost half as much as almost any strut for a subaru application plus I have upgrade options of the insert, like bilsteins) , and having the added benefit of feeling like I accomplished something. I think I will try my way first. Possibly wasting tons of money and time. Appreciate your input though. That is what I asked for. Cheers

Gloyale this is a FWD XT4 not a XT6 and even if they did have the struts I needed for my original equipment it would no longer apply since its now 5 lugged the bottom strut mount is different Volkswagen super beatle strut inserts have been fitted in EA81/EA82 OE struts put a gland nut on top where you cut it open and viola! it wont go anywhere, and Koni yellow race inserts are made to slide into old sealed struts look them up and see how they work if you care to

trying to drop my xt a little lower, but first some background. 5 lug swap done on my xt4 fwd. Has impreza everything with a reemed out EA82T control arm to fit EJ ball joint. things i didnt realize but now do: -FWD xt4 has the lowest strut subaru ever made (that I know of) so theres no replacement struts and this makes it harder to lower for various reasons. - impreza struts make it sit wayyy up high. I knew it was gonna make it sit higher but danggggg lowering springs arent gonna make up the difference. i need shorter struts. -I'm not as smart as i think i am -I absolutely do not want coilovers unless they are super awesome ones and thats not in my budget. So hows about this? as you can see the plan so far would be to: -get strut inserts (such as koni yellows) for the original super short FWD ea82t struts -Prep original strut for cartridge insert -Custom fab an EJ bottom strut to steering knuckle mount for the ea82t strut housing -weld mount onto strut house 1/2 inch up from bottom (giving me half inch drop with losing any strut travel....Maybe? might be thinking about it wrong) still plenty room for the axle -snag some lowering springs from the local custom coil spring shop dropping it another 1 and a half inches MAXIMUM anything more would be bad for my strut inserts -throw my new custom strut assemblies on my XT! also i was thinking of setting the custom bottom strut mount holes at an angle, the top hole farther out than the bottom correcting for camber. Things I'm worried about - Bottom spring perch hitting top of the tire (I sorta quickly measured it today before work and i think it will be ok) - Everything else about this theoretical project/my non theoretical life I could just get a 4x4 XT or XT6 but i'd rather work with what i have (should of bought the 4x4 version to start with) oh well thats why its a project i suppose Let's hear your thoughts on this thanks dudes stay sharp!

Hello, So I'm doing a 5 lug swap on a 1986 subaru XT turbo FWD. I'm almost 100 percent on going with some aftermarket struts and some custom coil springs. I would like to find some cheap springs to chop and size up so i can best estimate how long my springs need to be to put my vehicle as close to the ground as i would like. I can then take this cut spring to my custom spring maker for reference. Heres where my questions come in A) when the spec sheet seen here http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/71926-spring-specs/ says diameter 130mm is that inner or outer diameter? any alternative springs that fit and are cheap and easy to find? Not alot of 99+ year legacys around the scrap yards here and almost zero imprezas dont feel like driving 100 miles for springs im gonna cut up C) anybody have 99'+ legacy or 93'+ impreza front coil springs I can get for cheap? haha

yeah both sides have them removed Thanks for the info. I have a few different ea81s so hopefully i dont have to throw one of those together!

I have an 84 brat with an ea81 under the hood. Just got a new exhaust. the exhaust flange studs were stripped out. I told him he would have to tap to the next size up. He tapped the block and removed the spacers. Is having the exhaust directly against the heads gonna cause me problems down the road? the exhaust looks and sounds great besides my concerns

Gonna prime my 83 brat soon. The plan so far.... 1) sand it and repair rust (already done) 2) acetone it clean, possibly isopropyl alcohol after that 3) prime it! 4) body filler appropriate places 5) more primer I was just gonna use the epoxy primers they have now a days cause they are pretty great but then i was looking at my brat and sanding the rust off and thinking it would be great to have the acidic part of self etching primer to get any of the surface rust that might be hiding in gaps or wherever (so hard to get it all) can I body fill over the self etch? or should i just stick to the epoxy? I googled it of course but there is alot of different opinions out there thought i'd ask you knowledgeable folks

Nice ! yeah the parts brat had a canopy on it for its whole life, so the bed is great but the rest is a rust bucket. Then my good brat is rust free except a bit on the bed and a sizeable spot under the rear bumper from where it looks like an old owner backed into something and never repaired it. Now i just need a friend that can weld.

About time to do the body work on my 83 brat. None of the rust is threatening important structural areas so thats good. I was wondering If i cut big pieces out of my parts brat, can they just be welded in to my good brat by a professional? Hopefully saving me lots of money? I can't weld and this is my first experience into auto body stuffs. So i dont know if this is a viable option or if there is something obvious that im missing that wont allow this to work. thanks for any advice in advance

oh and here is this bit of info Here's how your factory oil pressure gauge should behave on a healthy engine with a properly-sealed oil pump: Startup: should go to around 45psi at idle, and go as high as 60psi when the revs climb. Warmed up: Should go to 45psi and pretty much stay there when the revs are up, maybe go a little higher if you get on it. Warmed up idle: Should sit just above the 0 mark, most likely in the 20psi range. Sure these gauges aren't completely accurate, but they're much better than any domestic gauges I've seen...

I'd get a new oil sending unit before anything. See what that does and go from there. Also not sure but i think an oil pump either works or it doesn't. If your gauge goes up when in gear I would assume your pump works. You can always make sure by taking it out and inspecting. Never bad to replace the O rings and gasket while your at it. Just don't pry on it cause it will crack or break.

Gitt's spring company in auburn will make you any coil spring you want

http://i1371.photobucket.com/albums/ag300/ironmaiden861/0520141746a_zps18a8b941.jpg Ahhhhh Will this work? 1/2 in. tube from air filter to pass. side valve cover 1/2 in. from driver side valve cover to pcv valve with 1/4 in. from that to pass. side Thinking i might have to go with 3/8 in. instead of 1/4

so I got the appropriate pcv setup now but something seems strange I was kinda under the assumption that clean air goes in passenger side valve cover and gets the blow by gasses and out the drivers side cover to pcv When i disconnect the hoses off the valve covers both are blowing but shouldnt the passegner side be drawing air in?