shoebee2

14.2 to 14.5 v across posts at high idle is what I have always used.

Supporting the engine from the top is the BEST, but not only way. I've done it both ways. From the top use your cherry picker on a grapple point in the rear center. That also helps with reinstall like stat d above.

You either have a seriously bad battery, assuming it is really fully charged. Seems to me that if the battery were fully charged and you could drain in in 15 seconds you'd see smoke or smell ozon. You likely have a starter that is grounding internally, a really badly damages set of windings or brushes inside the starter. Draining a fully charged battery in that short of time is distributing a lot of amps through wiring not build to handle it. I have a 750 cca battery in my 97 lob. At 750 cca@12v discharge in 15 sec your looking at an an equivalent of 200v in heat. That'd fry your battery and anything close to it. Cold start You should be looking for is about a 300 and up amperage draw on the intial surge followed by a roughly 125 amp steady reading. (engine being cranked over and disabled where it will not start as you said yours won't start.) Use your voltmeter and ch can starter draw.

I was at the local youpullit yard looking for a purge solinoid. The lob wreck looked pretty good underneath so While I was at it I pulled the front and rear o2, cam and crank sensors and the coolest sensors because.......well........because they all looked pretty near new. They charged me 10 bucks for the the both o2 sensors. 5 dollars each for all of them actually. Now if I knew for sure I needed an o2 I'd still roll the dice with. 5 dollar wrecking yard part before I'd spend $80.00 on a new one. That's 75.00 worth of beer or only 5.00 worth of ah spoob.

This one is driving me nuts. I have been chasing a rough idle and intermittent stall problem The car would run fine while cold. Good power, no hesitation, steady idle. No cel's. Once at operating temp, temp gauge 1/2 way and stable, it would give the out of gas behavior. No codes. Just acted like it out of gas. Feathering the peddle a bit would bring the rpm up but still sputtering. pull over put it in park and idle is fine, revs up like normal. Put it in drive and hit gas either hard or soft and it dies. Let it cool down and limp it home. Drives just fine while cold so Im thinking it’s the tcs. Replaced tcs and cleaned maf while I was at it. That seemed to do it. I drove for about 3 miles and the sputtering started again. Same symptoms. No Codes! Let it cool down limp home. I cleaned throttle body, IAC valve, checked everywhere for vac leaks. Cleaned pvc valve. Ran it several times trying to get a code but none present or logged. Took it for a test drive and it ran fine. Drove 30 miles and no problems. Sweeeet. Stopped at gas station filler er up and started sputtering and died. Same behavior. I remember when I first noticed a rough idle the fuel tank was ¾ full and only began acting normally AFTER I had less than ½ a tank. Charcoal canister or purge valve seems likely but both parts are expensive. Anyone have this happen can verify for me? s​

I think Fairtax4me was using sarcasm. But then if you pulled as many engines as he has.....maybe not. Agree on finding the leak and just fixing it.

Ewww

Holy crap! Plasti-dip! Never thought of it. After watching a few YouTube videos though it looks like that will work really well. Sense the wheels are the two tone gold/silver limited ones it will take a little more work. But great idea!

The 98 lob limited has the alloy wheels. Before I bought it it had sat in a field for a few years sunk in the mud up to the axles. The wheels are horribly corroded, gold coating flaking off and electrolysis pitting all over. Generally icky looking. This car is the child units and I'm not buying new wheels, painting seems like a bad idea. The home DIY powder coating products look good but never tried one. Seems like a guy could get an old range from goodwill for the cooking...... Anyone try it?

Great choice. Very good automobile. But Be careful! Damn things breed when your not looking. You,say it'll only be this one......but it won't. I was young and naive once. Now? There's 4 of em and THEY JUST KEEP COMING.

Good forum thread with pictures n arrows over at nasic. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=192583&page=4

Thanks for the replies. Which wifi adaptor do you use? I've looked into this for some time. My problem is I used to be a heavy mechanic and worked in dealerships mostly so a but spoiled. There's no way I'm even going to spend 500 on a scanner. There are open source options though. Openxc -distribution page here (http://openxcplatform.com ) is a really active software set that has Subaru support already. Unfortunately not for anything pre 05 as far as I can determine. From reading the boards I looks like you CAN get the codes from older models as long as they follow the specs which all cars sold in us market post '96 are supposed to. You would have to cross reference the codes read and create a definition file and include in the .config.xml file. That's a possibility. I found this on eBay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/LAUNCH-X431-CRP123-OBD2-Diagnostic-Tool-Auto-Scanner-Engine-Transmission-ABS-SRS-/152003494554 That looks like it just might be the ticket. Looks to be a blatant ripoff of the older snap-on. This is the one I think I'm going to get. Looks like it does everything I want/need for a decent price. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002PYBZJO/ It's pc based but I have at least 10 laptops in various stages of disassembly and or modification so that's not a problem. Here is a partial listing of Subaru specific codes and functions you can view and manipulate using the software. Again as with openxc there are a few .config modifications necessary for older ecu cars. List of Subaru specific codes and systems you can access. http://www.palmerperformance.com/support/supported_vehicles/generic_pids.php Addition: Using the palmerperformance software you can graph performance curves, power bands, turbo boost and fuel bands etc etc. woot! Daddy gets a new toy,

I went to buy an inexpensive odb2 scanner. Inexpensive is relative and the one that works with my kids cars, the subarus, will not work with my Mercedes or the wife's Chrysler. So I am looking at getting an ODB TO USB link. They are inexpensive and support almost all vehicles via plugins. I e used the Detroit Diesel/Alison suit which is pc based. Understand that that is a full,feature seve al 1000$ product but something a bit less feature rich might be just the ticket. Amazon has has the ScanTool for 39.00. Not bad if it works. https://www.amazon.com/ScanTool-425801-OBDLink-USB-Professional/dp/B005ZWM0R4#customerReviews Do any of you use something like that? Advice, opinions?

As the nternals wear microscopic particles begin to collect in the fluid. This is normal and why you are advised to change the fluid every 33k or so. If you don't change fluid that particulate matter builds up causing accelerated ware. Once you e passed a certain percentage of particulate matter to fluid, and have begun to see signs of criticize ware, the additive particulate matter begins to act as a binding additive. To give you an example, you can buy fluid additives for high mileage transmissions to give you a few 1000 extra miles before it dies. Typically these fluids have pecan dust added to increase the frictional coefficient of the fluid. Friction is what allows the plates to bind to their viscous clutches. More grip, longer life for worn plates. Sooooooo to make a long story even longer...... You put brand new fluid in that has no particulate matter in suspension, you have just lost a lot of friction for worn parts. If you do change the fluid, and I would probably do so for two reasons, add a high mileage binder to replace the particulate matter your loosing with the fluid change. The reason I would change the fluid, and this is just my opinion and I don't know squat. Trans fluid and a viscous count. Just like eng oil and every other libricant. As it ages that count begins to break down. It doesn't break down completely but it does loose efficiency. It flows faster, gets thinner and is more prone to sledging under load and temperature. Some of the galleys and passages are excreamely small inside the valve body and depend on a specific viscous property for both flow AND pressure. The other reason I mentioned but it's important to know that once a synthetic, dex 3 is synthetic...all trains fluids are, begins to break down it will separate out paraffin (we say sludge). That will clog those very small passage ways. Not completely right away but partially making the entire situation worse due to starvation and cooling problems. Using an additive is better. Additives are no corrosive while increasing viscosity and fiction. Old metal and rubber particulate is adding grip but is also very corrosive.

Better unhappy than stranded! Unless it's my wife. If she's unhappy I want her stranded