Ratpick

You could replace needles as described by tacotravis, but I'd suggest leaving them in place and using slits. There's chance to damage/ destroy movement (guts of gauge) pulling pointers. "Stickers" that go over your best bet. I work at a gauge restoration shop, and modern gauges like yours are tricky to mess with and don't offer much, if any, parts or service support. We don't even touch modern Japanese gauges.

Haven't even messed with this yet, but found some good unbiased filter testing: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/airfilter/airtest1.htm Which does support Gloyale's comments. I have some other old intake tubes and think I can make a hybrid intake of sorts, and use my carb eo sticker.

I've heard that argument before about intake, but just can't jump on board til I prove it to myself. I took acceleration times and will make a comparison. I bought this intake, and looks like a nice combination of decent china quality and cheesy riceroni style. Also, it did not include CARB sticker! Ugh. Still waiting on reply about that

Yeah, what he said. Also, recheck all your line connections and make sure no drippy drip. As good n smart as I think I am, I was stumped for a few minutes during my brake bleeding on my recent work. It was just staying spongy. One of the hard lines I had apart needed to be just a lil tighter.

I agree with Twitch. Gopher it. Don't be afraid of the 2.5 head gasket scares. Swap to a 2.2 or 1.8? Won't it become a traffic hazard by not getting out of it's own way?

Yeah! I just went out and tightened up sway bar end of links, and it was quiet. I thought for sure it was tight after running up with the impact, but not so much. So main problem was me being an idiot. But maybe I'll see if I can bore out that end link sleeve for larger bolt or shim the existing one up to hole diameter or something so it's not a recurring issue. Thanks

Check/ test coil, wires and spark plugs. Check out injectors and plugs there. Likely something may be cracked or have bad connection that swells with heat to "cure" itself. It's different animal, but, I chased a random misfire problem on my Civic for a while that was poor connection of plugs on the injectors. Just a little tidbit to think about. Any other signs of head gasket problems on this car?

I put a Tribeca front sway bar and some new eBay sourced Perrin end links on my '98 Fozzter. I thought these links were listed for 98 type chassis, but they were too wide to go in control arm bracket. I cut them down to fit. Seemed like it all lined up and fit pretty well, but once driving you can hear them pop loose as it flexes. I crammed some washers in between end link and bracket and tightened down. Seemed good for a minute but then making noise again. Is it just nature of these links? Should I try to get torqued down more? Wanna trade end links? What do you think?

Before I blow money on something that doesn't fit or won't really pass smog, I wanted to ask. I know there's some of you that have to smog test their car on here. I think injen is the only other one I found that list specifically for this vehicle and carb exempt. From the pic it doesn't really look like it's made to go on a MAF, but often these are generic pics. http://m.ebay.com/itm?itemId=221228102829 I know it's not much work to just swap the intake back to stock once every two years. So maybe open to other options. But I like the idea of my car just staying how it is and being legal.

Just to chime in- I just did my 98 foz w pads from Subaru. They were like $68 or so and I paid wholesale cuz I work at an automotive type place. I didn't feel like running the risk of disappointment that happened a few times over on my Civic. Aftermarket pads and rotors gave me constant warpage/ vibration problems on that car, until I bought pads and rotors from Honda. Then all bueno. I considered some of the performance oriented pads from Hawk or EBC but figured my occasional spirited driving wouldn't warrant such hardware. Anyway, somewhat needless to say, the Subaru pads set in nicely, are quiet and feel good.

Also, in case anyone's curious, complete knuckle with drum setup is 32.6 lbs while complete knuckle with disc setup is 35.8 lbs. ...oh wait, just realized I didn't have the pads in the pile on the scale, so disc setup is a little more than that.

Where are you on this project SubaruJunkie? I have mine all apart waiting on new bearings to get pressed in the unknown-mileage disc knuckles. Installed other parts I had, struts and sway bar. Disconnecting the e-brake cables is indeed most pita part. Where they come through floor is just behind center console, under carpet. Center console, rear seat bottom and both front seats have to come out to give enough slack to lift carpet up. (The Legacy parts car just got cut, way quicker!) I'm not exactly sure on legacy rear seat, but on Forester it's held by the two obvious bolts on front side and then one hook in the middle, where the center of seat has to get pressed down and the front rotated up. Legacy is probably same or similar. Maybe hook on either side. The e-brake cables are about 3-4" longer on Legacy than Forester. Connection to brakes is different so definitely must be changed. (Krikey, I had some pics but it's saying too big to upload. Maybe I'll get them here later...)

I see what uniberp is saying. 99% of the time I won't be driving in a manner that the slight extra rear brake power will make a bit of difference. I admit, it's mostly just for flossin, representin, ballin, pimpin, you know. I just can't roll with my new 17" and see some brake drums behind there. But the reasonable part of me is pained by wanting to take off perfectly good brakes. Oh and btw my new garbage disposal is bitchin. Put a whole pigeon thru there.

I'm in the middle of this on my 98 Forester. It looks like the parking brake cables need to be swapped too. Which looks like the most PITA part. They connect up under center console? I have everything from an Outback to use. The master cylinder is same between drum and disc cars? The only change will be proportioning valve? (Well kind of in the middle, taken some apart and grabbed junkyard calipers, now replacing garbage disposal in kitchen...)

Thanks. But I was kind of hoping to find where this has been covered, so I can put together correct combo of resistors and switch. But simply cutting power to duty C solenoid will achieve full-four wheel drive? I'm getting close...

I didn't realize some 1st gen Foresters came with rear drums. The 98 Forester L I just bought does. I haven't sold my wrecked 97 outback yet that has rear disc, all this should just plug-n-play-swap between the two cars right? Change rear hub/knuckle/chunk w everything it holds and slap hoses on. Proportioning valve too. What about e-brake cables? Those are probably different. What about abs? Both cars are abs, will they act funky or dangerous under abs engagement? One actuated stronger than other or something? I'm just trying to see if anything I'm forgetting or need to go buy in advance, other than some brake fluid and braided stainless lines for the one I'm keeping. Which I'd have to get for a disc equipped car. I'll let you know...

...there goes that pic

This was one of the first cars I looked at. He had somebody do head gasket job on that yummy Dohc 2.5, and only 128,000 mom miles on the rest of it. I had to grab it. My baby momma can't really drive standard anyway, and now that I know these Nissan-esque auto-trans can get some shift-kit action I caved and forgot about the joy of clean heel-toeing it into corners. Had to grab it. It doesn't look like much now, but just you kids wait.... Bwahahahaha! (That's just pic from his ad, but it makes it look great)

I know I saw a thread about this a while back, but can't find it now. If I remember it was a fairly simple hack into tcu or something and then you'd install a switch that would engage "full time four wheel drive" for off-roading and such. Just trying to do my research. (Will this mod be usable on-road, or tear stuff up?) Sorry if this thread is somewhat unnecessary but search function and scrolling through random pages just isn't working.

Omg thanks guys. I think I may be getting an auto again :/ and don't want it to completely suck. One thing I wanted in my Outback before was just the ability to hold it in gear and not shift. Like on certain on-ramp maneuvers, for example, I remember I'd stand on it and downshift, then lift a little as steering around someone not knowing onramps are for accelerating and it already up shifted, then have to coerce it to downshift again. Seems like this would be an easy hack if one knew what they were doing.

Ok so I'm currently searching for my next used Subie. I'm pretty settled that I want a Forester in the '03 up body style. But, I keep seeing Outback wagons around 2000-2002 for good prices. Is it just because these seem to be the ugliest years? I know someone here will be all "I love the way my 01 outback looks!" But, sorry, I don't. Can't get into that body. Something about it just too generic and lame. But, I will probably lift and do some silly off-roady stuff to whatever I get. I've never seen one of these years modded like that. Anybody? What about that multi-link rear suspension? Does it mind being lifted inch or two? Any pics of of one with off road tube bumpers? Help me like this bodystyle, or just reassure me to keep looking for the Forester I really want.

This motor survived! I yanked the "frame" out enough with my truck to get away from motor, put cam gears and belt back on and it fired up! This interference ej25 totally survived having timing gears smashed. And then cranked right after. Only thing I can figure is, since I think it had dropped to idle before I found the guardrail that the hit pretty much stopped the motor where it was when belt got pinched, and valves where all enough closed that when I cranked on it nothing hit. I heard from a Subie mechanic that these are technically interference motor, but not by that much. It was exciting.

My supra had some Tijuana hack job sunroof installed. I removed the whole thing and riveted a piece of sheet aluminum over hole w a little silicone to seal. Maybe your friend doesn't want to be as ghetto as me, but there's options. Also, the roof is a good place to lose 50 lbs.

Superu you're hijacking thread with that beautiful legacy! Dig that bumper man.

Thanks, that seems clear enough. And I dig the suparu name. I used to be into my Supra, now it's all about Subaru, if you say em drunk enough they sound the same.