ztrain727

Will do. Thanks!

Yeah did my best to clean it up. Turns smooth so I'm not worried. Can anyone help with these connectors? Having trouble finding the cam/crank sensor plugs. '93 engine, '97 intake manifold. Also this little white plug next to the throttle body is shaped a bit different on the '93 so they don't connect. Should I splice them?

Much appreciated Grossgary - I didn't know that about H6 pulleys. Everything I've read just says the EZ30 is bomber and doesn't need much done. I'll order some bearings and a new belt. The tensioner seems good since the belt is nice and snug. I ordered the PS suction hose OEM from an ebay seller. It won't be here before my next travel dates, so fingers crossed the serpentine belt holds out. I'll change the radiator hose ASAP however - parts store got it overnight. Also got to flush the PS ATF fluid. It's brown and bubbling. Pretty nasty.

Thanks Grossgary! Didn't see your response there. I think the previous shop disabled my CEL light, so I'll probably just run it as is. Happy to have a non-interference! You guys ever see rusty intake valves? I noticed this when I popped the intake manifold today. One in particular looked pretty nasty. Cleaned it up a little with a paper towel taped to a screwdriver. Engine turns nice and smooth, compression feels good. Got the new motor mounted up. Torque converter stayed put it seems. Gonna get at the timing components and front end stuff tomorrow.

Greetings - Been neglecting the H6 PS whine for a bit working on my other vehicles engine swap. Finally changed the o-ring and sealed the suction mating surface with a tiny bit of ultra gray as recommended elsewhere. Seems worse than ever. The suction hose has hardened and cracked and is leaking. In a pinch, can I use generic ATF hose for the suction hose? I'm worried the serpentine belt might blow if I make another long drive (2+ hrs to nearest dealership). Smells like burning rubber after driving. Even worse, I noticed the top radiator hose has somehow rubbed on the PS pump pulley and is almost worn through. How the hell did that happen? I can't see any way they would touch. So glad I caught it before a major overheat.

Yeah, the clean one is the old engine, which was half full of coolant. Didn't catch a whiff, but I wonder if someone replaced the baffle plate. Anyway... The new engine came with all the accessories (AC/alt/PS) which is nice, but it means I've got to break it all apart to do the oil pump/timing pulleys. I'm wondering if it's maybe just easier to mount it up in the car. The thought of trying to break the cam/crank bolts while it slides around on a crate seems problematic.

Good eye Forester! I didn't notice, and I'm looking at the real deal, not a photo. Since my old engine's pan is in good shape, I'm swapping them. I was surprised to see how different the coloring was on the baffle plates.

Glad it's normal. Not gonna touch the rear main seal. Do you guys loctite the separator plate screws? I was going to use a dot of blue, but it seems like the fact that one comes factory with thread locker means the others don't need it. How about the oil pan? A lot easier to do now than in the car, but it seems most people say look elsewhere for leaks.

Looks like this old gal is definitely losing oil. Looks like the seal on the back of one of the heads is leaking? Not sure where the rest is coming from... any ideas?

Thanks guys! No dice at the yard where I got the motor. They scrap exhaust parts. But I'll give the U-pull a shot on Friday and I'd say there's a good chance I'll find something. If not, I'll definitely take you up on that AdventureSubaru. I really appreciate it! If I weren't under some time pressure, I'd probably opt to just go that route in the first place. In the meantime, I'm going to reseal the separator plate, oil pump, cams, water pump and hopefully drop that puppy in tomorrow. Thanks for all the help guys! I'd be lost without you!

Thanks guys! Ordered all new coolant hoses from RockAuto. $50 for peace of mind. Only reason for not getting a complete gasket set is I already have a lot of them. Can someone shed some light on what exhaust headers are compatible with the '93 EJ22? It sounds like 90-94 EJ22 manifold and cat are one piece, but since I have a 97 exhaust system with a removable Y-pipe, could I use EJ25 headers/Y-pipe? Since my Y-pipe bolts near the cat are totally seized up though, maybe there's an easier option...

Thanks for the tip! I'll throw them an offer. Worst they can do is refuse it. The parts I ordered are: Water pump gasket OEM Crank/cam seals OEM Oil pump o-ring OEM metal separator plate w/ hardware NGK V power plugs Parts I will re-use, less than 10k miles: Valve cover gaskets/hardware Timing pulleys/belt/tensioner Water pump OEM thermostat Anything else worth replacing? One concern is the coolant hoses are swollen from oil contamination in the coolant. Are they compromised or can I just clamp them down good? As always, many thanks

Took a trip down to the u pull yard. Only ej22's were in cars with no other apparent damage. Some had already been pulled. Called another yard that I've used in the past. They have a '93 with 167k for $400, already pulled. Said it was running good. Might be hard to beat. Not a lot of Subarus in the desert.

Mid way through pulling the engine. Didn't get out there til afternoon today, but made some good progress. Everything is free except a few bell housing bolts, the Y-pipe and the intake manifold. A few questions: What are your feelings on pulling the intake manifold? It's easy enough, and gets some clutter out of the way, but maybe I should leave it on and swap it anyway since it got nice and hot too. I couldn't break the Y-pipe, even with a 24" breaker bar and penetrating oil. Since I already broke the engine mount bolts, the only reason I see to break it is if I end up with a dual port exhaust engine. Could I just separate the pipes instead where those sort of 'hose clamp' type connectors are? I want to have a backup plan for when I pull the other engine since I suspect these bolts tend to seize pretty good. I can't for the life of me figure out how to get that bell housing bolt near the passenger CV axle!? Doesn't seem to be any clearance from any angle, except maybe a tiny slit top left. Also, are these bolts normal for the exhaust header? Strange... The top 14mm starter bolt took some aluminum with it. Not too concerned since this engine is getting scrapped, but I hope the same doesn't happen again. And last but not least, take a look at that oil! Yummy! Somethin ain't right :/ haha

Aweomse! That's the clarification I'm looking for! Will follow up once things start coming apart, hopefully Friday.

Haha that's awesome you carry a spare timing belt! Nothing like a roadside fix... I think your advice is sound. I'd preferably go for a non-interference, but realistically I'll get whatever has the lowest miles/best indicators otherwise at the yard. What's the deal with EGR and the older ej's? As a novice, it gets confusing. I've read some conflicting information, but maybe I just don't get it.

Awesome! Thanks guys! I'll check the pulleys by hand and at least compare the water pumps on the two engines and replace the gasket. Don't know what year ej22 is going in yet. Thanks for that guide AdventureSubaru! I found some others but nothing that detailed. Again, most of this I've done with the head gasket job, so I'm hoping it will go quickly. Sounds like the biggest concern is keeping the torque converter in place. Fingers crossed...

Thanks grossgary! You've been so helpful over the years with this vehicle. Not sure the brand of pulleys/belt as I bought it with them. It has the old style hydraulic tensioner. Still looks pretty good - no rust, popped pretty hard when I last pulled the pin. How about the water pump? Seems more likely to suffer from an overheat since it's part of the cooling system. If I should replace, OEM or aftermarket? Let me guess.... OEM

Spring has arrived so I'm finally set up for the job! Drove the old gal into the middle of the desert where I acquired a little land, after draining about 2 litres of coolant sludge from the oil. Still runs smooth though! I had one other question. I believe all the timing pulleys/belt/water pump have less than 15k miles, but they went through that bad overheat. Do you think they're compromised? I'd prefer to save the $130, but not if it means more problems. I do plan to pull the engine before I head to the salvage yard and trade it for a core. I really don't have anywhere to store another engine, and I just want to be done with this one. Should I keep a set of spare parts? I was thinking of keeping an extra PS pump, maybe alternator, AC compressor, starter. It sounds like my '97 2.2 intake manifold should work with 92-98 ej22's? I have single port exhaust but no big deal to pull whatever I need there. I've gotta say, 100,000 miles sounds lovely right now!

Thanks for the extremely informative replies everyone. I did the HGs after the last overheat so I have new valve cover gaskets, cam seals, water pump, thermostat, timing belt in the current engine and will swap them to the new motor. What about the head gaskets? I have an extra pair, but better to just leave them alone on 2.2?

Thanks everyone! The current engine is also a 2.2. There's a u pull yard 2 hrs away with a bunch of 95-98 legacy's - they want $225 plus the core. I'll probably make a trip down there and try to find one with low miles. The issue then is there's no way to know how it runs vs the other yard garuntees their parts and they are already pulled. I'm glad everyone is on the same page here. I think I've gotta scrap the motor too and move on so this is the little kick I needed. How long does it take you guys to pull one of these motors? I've heard a good mechanic can do it in 3 hrs, was hoping I could do it in a long day. I've done the head gaskets and didn't find it too bad. Not sure what I need to remove to pull the engine.

Hey folks - You all have been a huge help in the past with this motor. I replaced the head gaskets after doing a DIY resurface and drove cross country, but the problem returned. I did not vacuum test the heads or do a leak down test. Coolant is leaking into the oil (nearly 2 liters after sitting a couple months) and oil in the coolant. This engine overheated to a stall one year ago, and I assume it was overheated before I owned it, hence the new HG when I bought it. Am I wasting my time with this motor? Better to do a swap? The only ones nearby have 200k plus miles and they want $550 whereas this one has 140k but it's had a rough life. I would think maybe a leakdown test might be a good starting point. Given that it's losing coolant even when not pressurized, it must be pretty major. Thanks as always

Great. I will make a few calls to local u-pull yards. Anyone have any ideas for getting the yoke out? I've read of other vehicle owners using a come-along through the u-joint. Should I remove the tailhousing? I guess the real question is, if the yoke is really stuck in there, am I looking at a new transmission anyway?

That's what I feared but the suggestions of the other members gave me hope that it may have just been the drive shaft. I don't recall the wheels locking up, no skid marks, no tranny fluid under the car. If I removed the 4 bolts to the rear diff, plugged in the 2wd fuse and could get it to shift into drive with the cable, I would have my answer quickly. Does it usually take some tugging to free the yoke? Should I remove the dust cover?

The yoke spins smoothly in the trans with no noticeable play, but I cannot remove it from the trans. It begins to slide out, maybe a couple inches, and then hangs up. Can anyone comment on the compatibility of driveshafts and/or transmissions for an '04 Legacy Outback LL Bean Edition H6. I understand the 3.0 and 2.5 are the same, and this run was from 2000-2004 I believe. @msmithmmx If you have a shift cable for this model, I would definitely be interested. Mine is pretty mashed. Thanks for the help as always!