newhampshiresouthpaw

I had it all back together by 9am there was quite a bit of residue on that crank and the mark was there on that back tab. It fired right up. Not exactly sure why the nice little arrow kept controlling my brain~ So, hash on crank up in line with the hash below the crank sensor on the block, key way down, cams hash marks up with the notches on the timing cover. Like I said, I didn't have this problem with the 2.2 (twice!) Brain cramp with the arrow~ Was really excited to have the rest of the day to tackle the brake line in my Ford woodstruck. Thank you EVERYONE.

Sooo...this morning I put the crank @ 3 o'clock, keyway straight down and cam marks @ 45 degrees (prior advice from above) and the belt marks with the cover notches. I had worse response from the engine. The good news is, I'm getting faster at reinstalling the bottom sprocket and pulley I actually have the day off~ and will next do it crank hash up, keyway down, cam hash marks up. As I FACE the engine, should the left cam be free? I recall Haynes for 2.2 saying LH sprocket being free, but that's actually on the right side as you face the engine. I hope the tensioner can take one more press. I didn't check here for replies @ daylight...I guess I didn't expect this much help~ so thanks to all. I will let you know what finally worked. And you're right. It is a sickness! I am my father's daughter and I'm tired of working to pay for what I can do myself. Love being outdoors anyway~

i'll try that tonight after work. I didn't have this trouble when I did two other timing belts in 2.2's. Yesterday, I double checked the position of cylinder 1 and realized it was not all the way up...I hadn't read your reply at that point. So, when i saw that, I thought I was all set, based on prior experience. Put the belt back on, cam marks @ top, and arrow on the crank was @ crank sensor mark...it all jived with everything I had previously read and watched. Left cam pulley free, and right tensioned with mark @ top. The result was crank, crank, foomph foomph...foomph. Seemed close, and definitely more normal sounding compression at least, but didn't fire. I think I recall reading someone mention that right cam mark (as I'm facing the engine) should be straight down.

Car wouldn't start after parking it for a 1/2 hour on a slight hill. Had it towed home. I determined the timing belt had failed by removing the right cover and placing a mark on the belt...started the engine and it did not move. Took it apart, lined up my marks but forgot about the #1 cylinder thing~ redid it...using a gun cleaning rod dropped down into cylinger #1 and putting a mark on it in line with the edge of the body to detect the upstroke. When it was out the farthest, the arrow on the crank sprocket was right where it should be. I cranked the right hand side clockwise to bring the mark up. The left cam pulley is freed. I positioned the belt using all the marks, installed the tensioner and bottom pulley, pulled the pin and nothing moved out of position. I put the crank pulley and bolt back on...(runs better with it on) and it wouldn't start. Is it possible that even though it seemed cylinder 1 piston was all the way up that it was actually up on the exhaust stroke? Am I not understanding this? Also, I think I need to clear some codes, because I questioned that the MAF may have failed too...and I remembered I had another Subaru that would run with the (bad) MAF sensor unplugged. It wouldn't run well, but it ran. In unplugging it, maybe I threw up some codes, and because the car is so old, I don't think there is a port to plug in my diagnostic tool. Could it be the crank sensor? Car aaaaaaaaaaaalmost wants to fire. I changed the filter as I hadn't since I got the car. Key on, fuel shoots out. This is my third timing belt change and I can't help but think there may be something else wrong.

ty~ Also, I should mention how my son took off the original filter housing/filter @ the throttle body, and the one on the side and replaced them with a circular performance filter in front of the now replaced MAF. The larger intake pipe clamped onto the throttle body may not be tight enough. My oldest son just informed me that those performance filters need to be on a cleaning schedule and oiled and not sure if his brother has...~ Also, his new performance intake it didn't come with the right coupling part, so the filter is just duct taped on...I'm hoping you're right that the IAC is just finally totally stuck and likely because his modifications aren't quite right lol~ I was shocked to hear the price of that part, so thanks again. My parents are having a 50th anniversary in 2 weeks for which I'm planning a surprise party...I'm already not sleeping thinking about how I'm going to manage that and so just didn't need to be thinking about a car problem especially since this ended up being a repair year to get stickers on all 4 just this past March :/

I've got a 99 Legacy L, 30 year edition, 2.2, manual that my son's been using since he got his license. Ran the car without a MAF sensor for at least 6 months (bad idle and all car wouldn't run at all with the bad MAF plugged in, but could keep it running with it unplugged) Finally replaced the MAF, and an O2 sensor...and so all codes gone except the car still idles poorly at start up then stalls after engine was warm...dirty Idle Control Valve per suggestion of my mechanic and he tapped on it slightly which must have freed it up a bit because there was instant noticeable recovery and the engine would no longer stall...So we've been running the car with this better bad idling for about a month. This morning, he starts it up...it idles poorly, yet stays running...and then it stalled. He took the Impreza to school, and I kept looking the car over...oil was VERY LOW, but not out~ I'm hoping that the reason the car will not run at all now is because that idle control valve finally failed altogether. A seized engine wouldn't crank at all right? It cranks as I'm trying to start it, and then gives a kapoof out the tailpipe which was the same symptom the car gave when the BAD MAF sensor was plugged in. I think it's worth a $40 junkyard part to try to fix it~ New part ranges from $177 - $423 between 3 auto parts stores.

This is my 97 Outback...except it's got a 2.5, it's auto and has over 230,000 miles on it! It's the mule. I take it exploring logging road in search of ponds and streams in the Great North Woods My white 96 wagon (the Goose) has the 2.2 with manual t., but I'm pretty excited about the little 93 Impreza I just got with the 1.8L.

I've been hooked since 1999. Talked my dad into trying one and he now has three! I just picked up my 4th! So altogether, we've got a variety pack lol. I figure they're better than money in the bank these days~ plus, when one needs some attention, I have a spare! When the one my son drives needs attention, he has a spare~ point A to point B. Somewhere I have a pic of my green Outback with two canoes on the roof lol! Enjoy it!

My '93 Impreza seats needed some attention. Since I only paid $600 for the car last week, I suppose I could have gotten some seats from the junkyard~ but I'm really wanting to make it "mine" for as little money as possible and I had the black Cordura on hand~ I reused the center stripe panels from the old seats and the welt to tie it in with the rest of the med. gray interior.Rear struts goin' in tomorrow. Having my mechanic do that. I thought about tackling them since I was successful at doing the timing belt/pulleys/drill/tap/helicoil for the tensioner bolt... :/ but a few people have suggested to just let him do it. Still waiting on the cats for the '99 Sedan which had cats until my son got a "custom exhaust"...97Outback still going strong with over 230,000.

You can remove just lock from the inside~it's held in with an e ring (e clip) if I remember. I will confess, I puttered on that door swap all day that day...removing everything except the glass in the "new" and salvaging everything from the old and installing it~ I'll post pics of the reupholstery work I'm doing for the Impreza. The headliner is loaded with punctures. Pretty sure he gave his goats rides

Thanks Tom & ?. A couple weekends I picked up a door for my '99 Sedan and it came off a 97 wagon, so I was hoping for the same luck with Impreza. Had to swap the wire harness and all as the 97 didn't have power door lock switch. I hate those little pastic clippy thingies~ all my black wire ties were passez, so I just anchored with electrical tape. Today, was able to reupholster the back of the back seat for the impreza...starting to breakdown the bottom of the seat. I reused the center stripe accent, reused welt, made new headrest welt out of the old slate vinyl and the black is Cordura

Just got a sweet deal on a '93 Impreza, front wheel drive 1.8L. Need driver door handle. Any resource info would be great~ I'm hoping the door handles stayed the same into '96...

The morning of the day I purchased it, the door handle broke on the driver side before I picked it up :/ Any resources? I have a few junkyards in my state, and was wondering how long before the doors changed on Impreza sedans/hatchbacks. Any info very much appreciated!