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brat69

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About brat69

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  • Location
    denver, co
  • Referral
    nasioc
  • Vehicles
    1981 brat
  1. brat69

    81 Brat Compatibility

    thank you leeroy!
  2. I was at the junk yard yesterday getting some parts for a civic and ran across two 1983 loyale gl's one a hatch and one a wagon, mostly intact. I wanted to grab the steering wheel/column for my brat but wasn't sure of compatibility of the parts. So what years and models are interchange able with my particular 1981 brat 1.8 with ea81? I'm looking for tailgate handle, tail light cover, steering wheel+column, fuse box, radio.
  3. We were too excited to take note of idle speeds when it engine would continue to run. We'll take note of it next time. Might take a look at the carb to see if it needs a cleaning/rebuilding. The air cleaner was filled with a bunch of gunk and some loose debris.
  4. I will take a look. Its getting power. Not sure if the filter or the lines are clogged. But once this is fixed there are a few gremlins to be smashed. Turn signal switch, hazard switch, we don't even know where they go, the horn/steering wheel, marker lights, tail gate handle, steering knuckle(currently a 3wd or 1wd brat), few tiny bits of rust, resealing the windshield. im hoping to be able to drive it and not be towed around it, for once.
  5. It lives! The problem with the coil not getting power was a dirty/loose connection at the fuse and/or a cut in the line grounding out. Cleaned and patched it up and cleared things up just a bit. Replaced the ignition control module because it didn't have any resistance to the disty body and took out the 3 ball bearings. Now we can start it and shut it off at will, for the most part! The engine runs for a good 30 seconds before dying. The idle sounds alright and seems to be running fine but then it just shuts off like it runs out of gas. When I turn the key over to the start position we do not hear the fuel pump priming. But how are we able to get the car started? If its running off of vacuum then wouldn't it just continue to keep sucking? Suggestions?
  6. I think we have to take the dash apart to figure out why we are not getting power to the coil. Took a look at the ignition module to see where the bb's go and found a few odd things. When we took off the reluctor, we found a total of 3 bb's and the spacers that go beneath the pick up coil and control unit were just laying around. And the reluctor had a few small chips out of it. Whats weird is that the spacers are found on the turbo charged breakerless systems but our disty is the "late hitachi system." In the Haynes manual, it shows a single piece spacer. I don't know if its brass too or if it really makes a difference. But while the disty was slightly taken apart we did a resistance test. And it failed. Could a bad pick up coil and unit be our problem? This wouldn't be part of the reason why the coil isn't getting power right?
  7. Thank you. We will hook it up after work and see what happens. My brother took off the disty cap and rotor. He noticed that there were two ball bearings. Where are these things from or did we drop them in by accident? Anyone have a wiring harness for sale!?
  8. This is true. I believe it is the internal ignition module. I took off the disty rotor and tested it for shaft play; there was none. We dont remember but, I think we moved the Black wire to the "ig" spot on the switch. The car would turn on then turn off. Then we left and it stopped working, then we ended up moving to something else then along the way, I found a blown fuse (the fourth one from the bottom 25amps). There are 4 wires coming from the ignition harness black, blue, white, and black/yellow. We know that the white goes to the battery and that the black/yellow goes to the starter. The other two, we have no idea, so if you have an idea, please let us know! edit: ran the test again, and now we are not getting any power to the coil. or we have a "power problem"
  9. I don't ever recall seeing a resistor, though in the Haynes manual it shows one in the diagrams. We picked one up and are trying to figure out how to wire it in. We tested the wires going into the coil(2 from disty, 2 from ig?) and the test light does not go on with the tool grounded. But if I hook up the test light to the battery + one of the wires will light up from the ig. There is a blue wire in the round harness that goes to the metal chunk that is constantly hot. Okay, how do do we go about testing the switch?
  10. So do you believe its a combination of all these problems or just one or the other? Do you know where the ballast resistor is located? How can you test the ignition switch?
  11. So My brother and I have been trying to get my Brat running It's a 1981 4wd EA81 with the dual range. We can start the car but when you let go of the ignition switch the motor just dies. Before we swapped some of the ignition wires around the car would start and run but you could not turn the motor off. The brat would run until it ran out of gas. We have a orange spark coming from the coil. "At the risk of repeating myself.... Put a test light on coil -. It should light up and pulse w/cranking. Light but no pulse = bad module No light on coil - or + = power problem No light on coil -,but,lights on coil + = bad coil It is almost impossible to prevent an EA81 dizzy from turning." fasdfasdfasdf We ran these tests and were not able to get any readings, from any of the leads. I used a tested ground above the coil and ran the test with the ignition switch in the off, on, and acc positions.
  12. brat69

    Brat Electrical Q's

    tested resistance on the coil and got 1.9 on primary and none on the secondary. i think we fried the coil by grounding it somehow. we are still not getting power to the coil. does anybody have pictures of the fuse box? or can tell me what each fuse is for? we dont know why he would cut the lines and replace a few glass fuses for the modern type. anyone know for sure what this is? someone said the icu. there is a wire that goes from this thing to the fan. the other wire is grounded to the frame then connects to itself. maybe wire 1 connects to the mystery box? is 2 half of a fusible link? how many wire should there be going to the ignition switch? we have 4 coming from the harness b, bw, w, blue
  13. brat69

    Brat Electrical Q's

    tried again last night, no start, no spark. we did an coil test from a ground to coil + and got no light. then test light from battery - (with the battery - not connected) and got a weak light from coil +. we have no hot wire to the coil. can we make a line to go from the ignition switch straight to the coil +, or will we fry something in the process? to my understanding, the coil is grounded by the strap but i don't think it is a good ground. if we make a ground, would it connect to the coil - ? from battery + to coil +- the test light goes on. this makes me think that both sides of the coil are grounded. haha, we have no idea what to do now. probably gonna redo the taped fuses with actual holders. can we just make a new harness for the ignition switch itself? if we did it would have to go to the coil, resistor, icu, and voltage regulator, right? the box with the round connector comming from it is the voltage regulator? if so what is the smaller box next to it? in the round connecter there is one hot wire that i tested. is this box not sending a signal to the coil?
  14. brat69

    Brat Electrical Q's

    Brat starts and runs, sorta! Still need help making sure where the wires go on the ignition switch. Currently we have it plugged in as IG(nition)->Black A(ccessories)->Blue R(egulator/rectifier)->White(this goes to battery) S(tarter)->Black/Yellow(this goes to starter) With this set up we can get the car to run but not idle. It will run as long as we keep the key turned. What we are unsure of, is there supposed to be a line that comes from the regulator/rectifier? There is another spade on the switch "B". How is the ICU supposed to be hooked up in the engine bay? There are two spades on it but we only have one wire plugged to it. We have a weak orange spark from the coil to the disty but when i try it from the plugs to the frame i get purple. On 1 and 4 we are getting intermittent spark to no spark at all.
  15. brat69

    Brat Electrical Q's

    No, I didn't! I still think they are swapped around. Because when we turn the key over to acc or the on position, the motor likes to turn over a bit.Anyone know what wires go to which spades on the ignition? We know that the black/yellow goes to the starter or "s" position. On the back of the tumbler there are "ig","acc","b","s", and "r" but there are only 4 visible wires. We made some progress, sort of. We got the car running by placing the Green splice onto the + side of the coil but the motor would not stop until it ran out of gas. We tested the spark, while the green wire was connected, and were able to get a weak orange spark. Took off the green wire off the coil, no spark, no start. While we were using a test light we touched the + side of the coil while I was cranking it and it started. Took off what I think is the noise suppressor, cleaned and tested the resistance of it and got no reading. Found this thread and still don't know if I need it or not. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/136409-what-is-this-little-capacitor-looking-thing/ Any help on what to test or what goes where will be greatly appreciated! Also this is the California model!
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