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Stevo F

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Stevo F last won the day on January 14

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About Stevo F

  • Rank
    USMB is life!
  • Birthday 05/13/1963

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Culpeper, Virginia
  • Occupation
    Accountant
  • Referral
    Online search for Subaru forums
  • Biography
    I am married and the father of 3 boys and I own a 2014 Impreza sedan, 1998 Legacy GT sedan, 1998 Legacy L wagon, and a 2003 Forester XS (1997 Legacy GT-RIP)
  • Vehicles
    '14 Impreza, (2) '98 Legacy's, '03 Forester XS

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  1. Does this kit look like a good one? https://www.amazon.com/AISIN-TKF-009-Engine-Timing-Water/dp/B0171KSFV2
  2. As for new timing belt kits/ water pumps- what the recommendations for good quality parts- I've always sworn by Gates, but I hear their quality has slipped recently.
  3. Thank you all for the advice. The previous owner told me that they did the complete timing belt/ tensioner/ water pump at 92K miles when the headgaskets were done (it has 103K miles now). I'm thinking when I get it over to my mechanic to make sure he looks over the timing belt assembly as well makes sure there are no leaky crank or cam seals while he's in there. Not sure it woulds be worth replacing any of it when there's hopefully 90K miles left before it needs another timing belt. I will definitely try filling the engine from the upper hose next time. I had no issues with trapped air at all when changing coolant on my 2003 Forester (also replaced heater hoses and thermostat at the time) as well as my EJ22 '97 GT
  4. I set out to replace the coolant in our '98 GT today. I drained the system, filled back up with distilled water, repeated and then filled with concentrated coolant. I was having more trouble than with my other 2nd gen Legacy's in bleeding the air out of the system (my '98 wagon with an EJ22 usually also takes some effort to bleed the system as well).. Raced the motor a few times, opened the valve on the top of the radiator to burp the system, etc... Finally got good heat from it and the temp went from slightly above normal back to normal. Thought all was good until the temp went back up and the heat went cool again. Added more coolant and repeated the steps to rid the air from the system. I never had one that gave me this much trouble. When I shut it off, I then heard the sound of fluid pouring out on the ground and saw lots of coolant coming from the front of the engine. Soooo, I'm guessing there was enough pressure buildup in the cooling system to cause the water pump to blow a seal? Any other thoughts? I'm assuming the worst that it needs a new water pump, at this point. Here's a video of the leak:
  5. You're correct that the FB series engines had the widespread oil consumption issues.The first FB engines were used in 2011, I believe. My '03 has been using a quart every 1500 miles or so. Just replaced the PCV valve- hoping that was it. I am running the recommended 5W-30 oil.
  6. The car is now home. It turned out one of the slide pins on the passenger's side front brake caliper had locked up and subsequently the brakes overheated o the point of smoking, so I went up and replaced the entire caliper and brake line with the one form the '97. I've warmed it up on two different cold mornings and the steam I saw before is nowhere to be found. Everything else is normal- engine temp and coolant level is still full. No sign of any leaks at all. Since the coolant has been in there 3 years, I plan to replace it anyway, so maybe I'll find something else then, but no signs of anything leaking from anywhere at this point.
  7. I tried finding Philips Crystal Vision Plus, but found Philips Crystal Vision Ultra- however a lot of Amazon reviews said these weren't any brighter than OEM and don't last long, so the Ultra's don't sound that great. If the "Plus" are brighter and longer lasting, I'd love to find a set of 9003's for my Forester.
  8. Actually I had no idea what the separator plate looks like- I don't think the mechanic was familiar with the term either. Actually the flex plate/ flywheel is still installed on the engine, so you can't tell what type is installed right now anyway.
  9. I asked the mechanic who had pulled the engine what type of separator plate was installed (since the engine was a swap, maybe it had been replaced by the metal one). He said there wasn't one at all- hmmm... maybe that's where the oil leak was coming from.
  10. My 2003 Forester XS with 225K miles has a bit of tap/ light knock when the engine is warm that I only hear under load/ acceleration. When starting up it has quite a bit of clatter which I assume is piston slap. It's been there since I bought it in October, or at least I noticed it since I changed the oil right after buying it. I don't remember it when we test droive it ewhich makes me think there might have been some pretty thick oil in there.
  11. I'm looking at a '99 Outback- E25D with bad headgaskets. Car looks rust free and clean, 180K miles. Customer brought it in for service and decided not to fix it and give it to the shop so they are selling it for $500. They say the steering rack leaks a bit, needs a CVT boot/ axle and will need a wheel bearing eventually. Trying to work out a deal with the shop to swap my engine in. I've read somewhere where you should use the EJ25D flywheel on the EJ22? As for my engine, pretty sure it has EGR (looks like it has an EGR valve) and did not throw a CEL in the '97 Legacy GT either.
  12. My mechanic just pulled the '95 EJ22 out of the '97 GT where it had been swapped since the GT had run into an embankment, so the EJ22 needs another new home. Per the previous owner, the engine only has about 100K miles on it. I found a clean '99 Outback that needs headgaskets that I'd like to have this engine swapped into. How easy is this swap? I've read where EJ22's (especially '95's with dual port exhaust) directly swap into '97- '98 Outbacks/ GT's that came with EJ25D's, but is this also true for a '99?
  13. Actually it's not overheating at all and the coolant level really hasn't even dropped. We're having to part out our '97 GT so I'll likely use the radiator from that assuming my son can drive the car the distance back home at some point.
  14. I went out and checked out the car. No sign of leaks, transmission fluid full, no burnt smell, drove it around his neighborhood and drove fine. Upon returning I did notice a little bit of steam wafting up from the driver's side of the radiator. I couldn't see a leak or where it was coming from, but I'm sure this was the "smoke" my son saw when it was 20 degrees out. I told him to drive it for a couple of short drives and if everything else is OK, drive it back home and swap cars so I can look at the radiator. I'm hoping the radiator I have out of a '96 Outback will work in his car, or else we may be parting out our '97 GT in the next couple of weeks so that one should work. The only other thing that I looked at was the recently replaced A/C compressor (thinking it may have locked up when he was driving it). The compressor clutch was fine but the compressor didn't kick in except for a few seconds when I turned on A/C or defrost. Something for the mechanic who installed the compressor last summer to look at I guess.
  15. I doubt my son would know the difference between the burnt smell of oil vs. rubber belts vs. brake shoes. Interestingly, the front driver's side brakes were just removed to replace an axle, so I will be checking for anything seized with the brakes. I believe he said he did see some smoke though.Hopefully I'll find out more in the morning when I stop over there, but I'll have limited time to do anything as I'll be going to the office afterwards.
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