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Goldenhands57

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  • Location
    Carson New Mexico
  • Vehicles
    88 DL automatic wagon.

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  1. The left belt is the one that usually fails..a bit more of a p.i.a. to deal with than the passenger side. Drivers side belt drives the, cam, distributor, and oil pump. If it breaks you have a walk or cell phone call to get resucued. Not to worry.. the EA82 is non interferance..you will not trash the engine in case of belt breakage. One other suggestion when you replace the belts is also buy the "micky mouse" gasket for the oil pump. Remove the pump and install the new gasket. This will prevent air sucking in the oil pump which is one reason the EA82 has a reputation for clattering valvetrains. The gasket is not expensive and it is a breeze to replace when doing belts. Buy a new water pump also..spend the extra for a quality one. If these cars have a weakness under the hood it is no reserve on cooling. Ask anyone in Arizona or such area's (I live in New Mexico). EA82's will die quickly if overheated.
  2. Any codes flashing on the ECU? Is the idle steady at high RPM or wandering/sputtering/cutting in and out? IAC is the first suspect on these engines, they get stuck...gotta keep them clean to work correctly. Vacuum leaks also as mentioned. MAF sensors also do very funky things to the injection rate on both SPFI or MPFI, and the old school Subaru MAF is not the best system out there for durability. You can try cleaning the hot wire but be very careful not to damage them. Aerosol cleaner from the big box auto parts store will work; for a while. If that resolves the issue be looking to buy a known good MAF cause the one you have in there now is on borrowed time.
  3. Yup.. MAF sensor is my first thought. Been there...done that. ECU doesn't see the MAF very well in Sooby's so we end up jamming in all kinds of stuff. Basics need to be confiremed first but in the end the MAF usually solves this problem. Ask how I know! BTW.. good USED MAF's for your car are pricy... be sure to sit down before you check the price of a new or "overhauled" one.
  4. I have the exact same year and make. My DL is a wagon. The A/C system has a switch in it that protects the compressor if the charge pressure is too low. The switch I mention is in the high pressure side of the system in the Subaru design. Make sure your R-134 is to pressure spec. To charge the system after evacuating the system it is required to over-ride the low pressure switch. Simply jumping directly to the positive of the battery will do the trick. Do not drive the compressor for a long time by direct jumping to the battery because you could overheat the compressor if there is not enough oil to protect the seals. Do not jump the wires on the small circut board you mention! No need to do that. It is also possible the magnetic sensor on the clutch is not close enough to the clutch. The "three fingers" should be around 2mm from the A/C pickup sensor. The fact that somtimes you do have compressor and then it "clicks off" indicates to me that the refrigerant charge is too low or the switch to detect the pressure is defective. The system is trying to protect itself as designed.
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