Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


jonathan909 last won the day on January 4

jonathan909 had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

46 Excellent

About jonathan909

  • Rank
    USMB is life!

Profile Information

  • Location
    Calgary AB
  • Referral
    ej25 phase i vs phase ii via google
  • Biography
    Engineer, amateur wrenchpuller
  • Vehicles
    95&98 Legacy 2.2, 99 Legacy 2.5, 01 Forester

Recent Profile Visitors

161 profile views
  1. I just don't think U-Haul does those things up here, but it's worth looking into. One complication is that the car is (predictably) dead, but we should be able to winch it onto a trailer like that with a comealong.
  2. I'm struggling a little with this - just need a one-time hack that'll work "well enough".
  3. Yeah, it just strikes me that if there were a problem with the clutch work, it would have shown up a lot sooner than 30K miles. I'm always extremely suspicious of "coincidental" failures - if you have two problems at the same time they're probably related. But that's an awful lot of time and distance for the two to be related problems; more likely "unfortunately neighboring".
  4. Easy to phrase ambiguously. In case I wasn't clear, I meant "New problem with the transmission unrelated to the clutch change."
  5. Just guessing, but it sounds to me like a new transmission problem unrelated to the clutch change.
  6. I need to move this car 70km, and the flatbed quotes I'm getting are too high, given the circumstances, so I'm considering DIY. First, the information out there (apparently from Subaru) is that flat towing is okay for a car with a manual transmission. Does anyone have facts that contradict this? Second, how to attach my A-frame tow bar? The adapters I have attach via a single bolt (on each side) to/through the bumper/frame - fine for towing old Detroit iron like my Ramblers and Dakota with big steel bolted-on bumpers. But how about the WRX? Taking the bumper off to get at the frame seems like a terrible idea - the parts guy at the local dealer told me that the clips that hold it on are worth more than the bumper itself. So has anyone fabbed an adapter that bolts to the front tiedowns, then reaches down and forward to clear the bumper and connect to the tow bar? Or does someone manufacture towing adapters like this? Am I even thinking in the right direction? Btw, if we go the DIY route, we do have a 2005 Legacy GT handy that we can use as a model. Is that close enough to the 2010 WRX?
  7. First I've heard of it. Are they application-specific?
  8. A little story, if I may. When I bought our first Subaru seven or so years ago, I knew it was overheating and that I'd be jumping into a head gasket job right away. So I started asking questions (on another forum) and found a lot of help, including the same admonition to stick with the OEM thermostat. I asked why, and to the forum's credit I got useful technical answers about its hysteresis characteristics and aperture size - stuff engineer-type geeks like. So I headed on down to the dealer and told the parts jockey that I needed a thermostat. He said "Be right back" and immediately turned to fetch it. I tried to stop him - after all, I hadn't told him which model, year, engine, or temperature I wanted. He replied "We only have one." That was the moment I decided I liked Subarus - a lot.
  9. Okay, then no downside to having one on a motor with an AT.
  10. So why not just always have it there? Why in one case and not the other?
  11. I don't understand. It's just a guard that doesn't contact anything.
  12. I've been meaning to ask about this. Why one and not the other?
  13. Both EJ25S (SOHC), right? If so, yes, but when you do these swaps you generally just trade blocks and keep the intake manifold with the car. That way you avoid any sensor disparities. Oh - does this one mean a change of cam sprocket?
  14. Of course - the difference in both quality and price between OEM and "the aftermarket" is a given. What I was saying is that massive price disparities exist among parts of equivalent OEM quality - that in the stated example, going to the dealer means paying three times as much for the same Mitsuboshi belt. That's all. Not recommending anyone "cheap out"; to the contrary, pointing out that the high-quality/low-price combination exists, so don't get taken. Myself, I like Terry Pratchett's version of that old adage: Make a man a fire, and he'll be warm for a day. Set a man on fire and he'll be warm for the rest of his life.
  15. We don't have to get contentious - what you're calling "a treatise" I'd call "a proffered opinion". We do this because the OP may not be aware that such a huge disparity in parts pricing exists, and thus may not know to ask.