AKIRA

We somewhat got it, it's an issue with the circut for connecting a trailers lighting up to your car. I was looking at the fuses (I was going to pull the one for the brake lights and see if that made the issue go away) when I saw the one for the trailer lighting. I pulled it and everything is back to normal. I assume something in it has shorted and is backfeeding power to the passenger side turn signals. We have the fuse pulled for now, so he can drive it normally, we'll have to troubleshoot it more when I have time off.

OK, these are some things we'll check. Would the turn signal switch cause the lights to stay on with the car off though? I saw that the switch on the top of the column was off, but I'll switch it back and forth a few times to see what it does.

Hi, this is regarding my fathers car, a 2005 Subaru Baja AT Turbo, about 110K miles. At one point, his passenger side turn signal lights came on and stayed on (solid, not flashing). They are on even when you take the keys out of the car. To be specific, it's the front and rear pass. side turn signal lights, and the front pass. side parking light (which is affected because it would normally flash along with the turn signals), so 3 lights. On the dash the pass. side turn signal indicator (the green arrow) is lit up and always on too. The Drivers side turn signal lights work fine, they flash normally. But, when you push the hazard switch in, the drivers side turn signal lights come on and stay on like the pass side. There is no relay click when you do this, only the click of the switch when you push it in. Using the drivers turn signals and the keyless entry unit, we were able to track down 3 modules that make clicking noises & cause lights to flash, two when you use the drivers side turn signals (one with a black plug under the drivers dash, mounted to the steering shaft, and a larger one, on the left side of the drivers side foot well up under the dash. It has a white plug). The third one is the keyless entry/security module, it's behind the glove box. We unplugged all three modules to no effect, the pass. side lights mentioned are still lit up solid. Is there another relay that we couldn't find (and if so, where is it?) or is there possibly a problem with the hazard switch? Thank You.

Hello, my Step-mothers car is a 98 forester and it has a problem with tires on the right-rear wheel. three times now a new tire put on the right rear side has become this within a few months: http://img120.imageshack.us/img120/9995/tirevx4.jpg Thanks to ImageShack for Free Image Hosting it vibrates in the back when driving, obviously. (when I borrowed it I assumed a wheel was out of balance) now Walmart (where she bought the tires) have said the treads are separating and replaced them each time. any ideas on what is causing this? thank you.

well that didn't work. I am just going to take it to them, it's only going to cost $60 since I have the parts.

well I have the whole thing apart, and now I need that special socket I am going to try to make one, I will take 2 1/4" bars (like allen keys) and weld them to something and try it.

Hi again, I went to get my 84 4WD Brat inspected, and one of the things needed (along with front rotors) is that it needs the right rear wheel bearing replaced. I was told by the woman who owns the dealership (not the mechanic) that she "thinks" the bearing has to be pressed in and it may have to be done at the dealership. my haynes manual says specifically that the front ones need a mechanic to replace, and it doesn't really mention the rear other than regreasing them. so, can I replace the rear wheel bearing myself? I already have the large baring and two seals. mainly, does it require some pressing that only a mechanic could in their shop? I know her and she is very nice, if anything she is just mistaken, not trying to get me to take it to her so she can charge me for it. so, can I do it? thanks in advance.

ok, I got back from the drive. the fan works. I do however, want to wire in the other fan so that it will run in parallel with the working one. I am going to go to an autoparts store and get some plugs and heavier guage wire so I won't have to alter the stock harness in any way. thanks for your help.

ok, I got some crazy conflicting readings, and traced a wire that goes to an ac relay plug that, when connected, makes the plug that the fan plugs into have continuity across it's two contacts - so the fan won't run. I unplugged it, and now when I jump the wire off of the temp switch to the neg terminal, the fan now runs. I pinched the connector with pliers to make it hold better, and I am going to go get gas in it (it's low) to see if the fan runs when the car heats up. what do you guys think of connecting it so that both fans run with each other? (paralleling the one fan with the other)

I left my multimeter at work, but I was able to borrow my dads. I am going to check it out, but I have a quick question, this is what it looks like right?

ok, I found the switch, the wire has a loose fit, I stuck a jumper wire into it (the wires connector end) and grounded it at several points (including the batteries neg. terminal) nothing happened, it may have made a small spark once when I rubbed it on the neg. terminal, but no fans came on. ------------------- "You said "your fans don't come on", so I take it that you have AC. Do the fans come on when the AC is turned on? AC relay sends power to the DS fan, and grounds the PS fan bypassing the radiator switch, (if I've traced the wires of the harness out correctly). AC relay is the single relay closest to the PS fender in this pic. http://s29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...derthehood.jpg" ------------------- I did have ac, but all the freon leaked out before I bought it, and I removed the compressor when the bearings on it went out. the fans do not run with the ac turned on - there is no compressor. do you think that having no ac compressor is messing this up?

while in the drivethrough line at arbys (it was 5-10 minutes, the place has a high turnover rate so no one knows what they are doing) my car began to overheat, and it shot some water out through the overflow hose. I found out that neither of my radiators fans are working (and my car doesn't have a clutched engine mounted fan) I jumped both of the fans to the battery and they work fine, I just need to know where the fans temp sensor is located in an 84 ea81 brat. if it is bad, should I be able to just jumper across it to make the fans run constantly, for the time being? thank you. oh hey, good to be back, I haven't dropped by in awhile, I have been pretty busy with college and an intenship.

ok, I was able to get to cvs and buy a new battery for her remote, I did the lock/unlock, and it works fine now. thanks.

I will try that, but I have to wait until tomorrow, since the battery in her remote is dead. Thank you.

It is my stepmothers 99 forester automatic, ej25 shoc. after replacing the drivers side headgasget, we hook everything up except the radiator hoses, and connect the battery. when the battery is connected - no matter what key position (it doesn't even have to be in the ignition) the front turn signals, brake lights and instrument cluster lights (as in the light bulbs that backlight everything in the car, not the warning lights themselves) flash over and over. they flash at half the rate of a normal turn signal flash, they flash for one minute, then stop for ten seconds, then flash for another minute, and repeat. we have checked our electrical connections, and we are clueless as what this could be.

ok, well I think I will do a 2.5 inch from the cat back, just copying my exhaust (its some kind of custom dual setup, but the same diameter as stock). if I want to later I may remake the front part as well. good to hear about the radiator, I thought it was some kind of mod to get it to flow better, but it sounds like it is just to get a hose to fit on it.

no no no, I mean cat back from the ej22 exhaust, as in I would use the ej22 exhaust from the engine to the catalytic converter, then make up the rest. when I mentioned the stock was not adaquate - I messed up a little, I meant stock size (pipe diameter). basically I was asking what diameter I should make the exhaust pipe, I know more flow than stock would be better, but I don't want a large system that would rob all the low-end torque.

first the radiator. I was told that I could use the stock ea81 radiator, but that I should have the outlets inlarged, I called local radiator shops and was told that they don't do that, one even agrued with me that it wasn't possible. I have access to an ea82 radiator, would it be adaquate? how difficult would it be to fit it? any other options on that? the exhaust. I am going to make the exhaust cat-back, because I was told that the stock was not adaquate, what diameter should I use? EDIT: firefox messed up the spacing again

ok, well I removed the 3 things that I asked about, and none of them had anything important to it, except the cruise had a wire to the speed sensor on the engine comp. Now I have another question, there are 3 wires on the kennedy sheet that I can't find 1. a black/white wire that is supposed to go to the "Alt light" on the vanagon I can find no reference to an alternator light 2. a white/green wire that is supposed to go to the "coolant temp guage" same thing, no reference 3. a green/white wire that is supposed to go to the "oil pressure light" again, no reference any advice on how to find theses wires? thanks EDIT: firefox for some reason takes out the the spots where I hit return

wait what is the "speed sensor bracket and magnet."

I have my ej22 wiring harness (93 automatic) and I removed the turnsignals and the headlights, along with the 2 plugs for the automatic transmission. now I need some help, there are three boxes, and I am not sure if anything important comes out of them (or what they are exactly), here are some pics 1. the first one, it has some wires that went to the auto trans plugs. I am not sure what it does, can anyone identify it and tell me if anything nessecary comes out of it? 2. the next one is labeled "CRuiSE CoNT uNiT" so it is the cruise control, it also has what looks like 2 relays on the side of it, is anything here that I should save? I don't think so, but it is safer to ask 3. this one starts out from the plastic braket that holds the 2 large plugs that are bolted together, all of the wires from the plug with the lesser amount of wires go to some of 3 things: a box labeled "NIPPON ABS LTD" - which I think may be the control for the antilock brake system, and then some generic looking plus, some of which are wired to the abs box. there is a bracket that holds 2 things, a 12 volt relay and a weird looking thing. pics below the plug in my hand is the one which leads to all of the things I mentioned in point 3, the other plug is on the right and the one on the left both run through that plastic bracket in the middle the plug runs to this side box, which is labeled "NIPPON ABS LTD" here is the label these are the 8 plugs, they run to the main plug, the abs box and the 2 things on the bracket here is the bracket, the part on the left is a relay, I am not sure what the thing on the right is. so I am asking: what is the box in the pics for number 1? anything important come out of it? does anything important hook to the cruise control box in number 2? or the relays next to it? is the box in number 3 the abs computer? and if so, is anything running to and from it needed? what about the plugs? and the relay with the weird thing to the right of it? if any of these sound like a dumb question then sorry. thanks for any help you can give.

not sure, my 93 harness has 2

I picked up the wiring harness on friday and holy crap, that looks like alot. does anyone have any tips for me when I try to cut this down? I plan to bu ythat little guide that kennedy engineering has for the wiring. I do have another problem, I tried to get the adaptor plate from ryan and he will be out of stock on them for six weeks, I tried allied armament, but they don't seem to sell them anymore. does anyone know where I can get an adaptor plate now? I am going to need it sooner that six weeks.

thank you

ok, some new questions. what diameter are the "nipples" on the legacy radiator? I am going to take my brat's radiator to be boiled out & cleaned, I might as well get it modified like matty B while I am at it. also, what did you guys do with the power steering pump? since my brat doesn't have power steering, I don't need it, but the stock belt won't fit without it. were you able to find a belt that fits properly without the pump, or did you leave the pump there? also if you used the pump, the pump is lubricated by power steering fluid right? so I would have to hook the pump's out into the in and let it just cycle like that?