91 loyale in Syr

Is there any way to find out the correct part number? Is there one place thats better than another-say napa over autozone?

So I replaced my right front axle today. Wasnt too difficult with all the posts on this board but I noticed that the inner joint(one with pin) felt a little sloppy when I was putting it on. Im not used to these so I thought it must be normal and the pin must tighten up the slack. WRONG!-I put it all back together and again noticed it felt a bit loose/clunky when i was messing with my hub. Sure enough when i tried to test drive it there was a loud clunk and a noise which sounded like the tranny "stubb" turning inside the new axle joint. I was so upsetthat I didnt even bother to look at anything but I called Autozone to recheck the part number and they said it was the one it called for. They said the 90 model had a different part number and told me to bring down my original axle and see if it looked to be the same size but I cant tell!! ANY ADVICE ANYONE?????----Thanx in advance!

Ive searched past posts about cv joints because I think mine is bad. Most of the posts say you can tell on turns. What if Im getting the clunk-clunk -clunk upon accel going straight? At first it almost sounded like it was coming from right under the shifter but as I was driving it seemed to move more to the right front. It doesnt happen if I put my foot on the clutch and coast(trying to listen)and it also goes away at higher speeds. What Im trying to figure out is could it be an inner joint or something else? Im not too familiar with inner joints, drive shafts, half shafts and such. This is a 4wd 91 loyale. Ive only had experience with fwd saab shafts.Thanks in advance!!!! PS any good suby mechs in central NY??????

Ive searched past posts about cv joints because I think mine is bad. Most of the posts say you can tell on turns. What if Im getting the clunk-clunk -clunk upon accel going straight? At first it almost sounded like it was coming from right under the shifter but as I was driving it seemed to move more to the right front. It doesnt happen if I put my foot on the clutch and coast(trying to listen)and it also goes away at higher speeds. What Im trying to figure out is could it be an inner joint or something else? Im not too familiar with inner joints, drive shafts, half shafts and such. This is a 4wd 91 loyale. Ive only had experience with fwd saab shafts.Thanks in advance!!!! PS any good suby mechs in central NY??????

Are these seal kits readily available at auto zone or napa?

My 91 loyale has the oil leaks coming from the front. Not sure which seals are leaking but Im under the impression that if I go in there I should do them all. I brought it to the local independent shop and they said they would replace the waterpump(appears to be leaking) the cam and crank seals and both timing belts for $475. He said the timing belts get compromised when they get oil on them. I have a lot of mechanical experience and could probably do it myself if I had a garage, there wasnt snow on the driveway and it wasnt 15 degrees outside. I looked inside and it looks pretty tight in there. Is this job done from the top or bottom? Is this a good price to have someone else do it? Any advice/thoughts on the subject would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Well the snow storm has arrived in Syracuse and I was out driving around and I have 2 problems. 1-The wipers suck!! I replaced the wipers with winter blades when I bought it about 2 months ago. I also lubed the "hinged" part of the arm to see if that would help at all. No matter what I do it doesnt make a difference- they are terrible. Perhaps I need the whole arm? Could the sprins be weak? Ive tried bending them a little but it hasnt helped. 2-The defroster is TERRIBLE!!. I try to let it warm up for at least 5- 10 minutes but it doesnt put a dent in it. When i get in theonly thing defrosted is the first 2-3inches above the vents on the windsheild. The side windows take at least 20 minutes and the rear(wagon) windows seem like they have an everlasting glaze on them. If i stop after the first 10 minutes of driving and come back in 5-10 minutes the whole thing is frosted over again and I have to start the process all over. Ive started to drive with a second set of keys so I can leave it running constantly. This is the only way it becomes and stays defrosted after about 30 minutes. Ive tried changing the vent setting but it didnt seem to help. Im under the impression Im supposed to keep them on vent so as not to recirculate air but Im not sure. It is always set on defroster and full warm though. Any thoughts or advice would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance!!!

Hi everyone-Over the last couple weeks Ive noticed that when i use the intermittent wipers they seem to "hesitate" at the beginning of the cycle. They'll climb an inch or so- pause for a second or 2, than continue on their way. Sometimes it will happen twice in the beginning of each cycle. It doesnt happen every time. It doesnt happen at any other wiper speed, they all work fine though they seem to be a little slower than they used to be. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.....

Hi Everyone- Well i made it thru my brake job last week and now Ive gone thru a quart of oil in the last week. It thought it was coming from the pan but it appears to be dripping from the timing chain cover (oil pump, crank, cam seals???)which I havent removed yet. After reading the post a couple before mine Im concerned with stripping stuff and am thinking I might be better off bringing it to a good mechanic with a shop instead of doing it on my back in the driveway, in the snow and 20 degree weather. If anyone knows a good place to bring it in the central new york/syracuse area i would much appreciate it. Thanks and Happy Holidays!

Believe it or not its on both sides, thats why it appears to be factory........

Hello Everyone- This is my first post- Just bought a 91 Loyale 4wd wagon yesterday. It needs front brake rotors. When i went to replace them today I noticed that one of the 4 bolts holding the rotor to the hub is larger than the other 3. The hub is actually threaded for this larger bolt while the other 3 hub "holes" are not. My problem is that the new rotors I bought have 4 threaded holes that are all the same size. The larger bolt doesnt fit the new rotors. I thought I might have the wrong rotors but every part store I call says they are the correct ones for the vehicle. Even the local dealers dont have a clue- Does anyone know anything about this, do I have to switch to a smaller bolt (the size of the other 3?) Any help wouold be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!