NotAWRX

Thanks for the heads up! With that in mind I have no problem protecting my investment and holding off until spring or summer to take the car. It's a bummer NY uses such aggressive chemicals, but safety comes first. On the plus side, the extended stay in the garage will give me time to continue to get some quick fixes and maintance needs done. And about how often should I start the car to let it run? I'm a little hesitant to let any of my vehicles sit for too long.

Thanks, will do! And here a few pics of my 76'. I'm still not sure why it says GF on the back as I was under the assumption that the GF wasn't available as a 4 door sedan and had a different front end. Either way, I am very happy with the car and cannot wait for a nice day to take it out for a bit. http://s76.photobucket.com/user/1976DL/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20141123_145030_zpse08559d8.jpg.html?filters[user]=142180068&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=2http://s76.photobucket.com/user/1976DL/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20141123_145015_zps7a442b39.jpg.html?sort=3&o=1 http://s76.photobucket.com/user/1976DL/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20141122_182519_zpsd4dfb0eb.jpg.html?sort=3&o=2

Hello again everyone! I have some free time coming up and I wanted to tackle the Hazard light issue. They do not work at all and was wondering if anyone had a similar issue and could point me in the right direction?

Hey Everyone! I wanted to post an update regarding the fuses. Spot #1 is closest to the passanger compartment and as the numbers ascend the spots move away from the passanger compartment. #1) High Beams - 10 amp #2) Low Beams - 10 amp #3) Turn Signals [According to the Haynes Manual this fuse also handles: Backup Lights, Cooling Fan, and Thermoswitch, whatever that is] (I also found that anything from 10 to 30 amp fuses work. But I felt that 15 amps would be the safer route to go) - 15 amp #4) Side Marker, License, Tail, and other Various Lights - 10 amp #5) Radio, Washer Spray, Wipers, and Heater (I'm still not sure if mine works...) - 15 amp #6) Ignition/Start Switch and Horn - 10 amp #7) Key/Warning Buzzer and Door Switch [According to throw Haynes Manual this fuse also covers Hazards (mine do not work), Map Light, Cigarette Lighter, Clock, and Stop Switch] - 25 amp #8) Light Switch - 25 amp ***There are a few things that I think should be noted. For starters as either routine maintenance or as a step in trying to solve a potential fuse issue the connector prongs should be cleaned and adjusted, just as bertmann73 noted. I used a fine grit sandpaper and thoroughly went over each prong. Secondly, having a manual is great, and I think the Haynes Manuals are very good (I also use one of my 1994 Mazda Miata), but they seem to leave a lot to be desired in the way of fuse amperage. My experience was that what the fuse slot did was correct, just not the fuse amperage. I hope this helps! I'll be sure to double check my work over the next couple of days and post any changes to my findings here. And thank you all again for the help and pointing me in the right direction!

I'm having trouble uploading my picture. As soon as I figure out what the problem is I'll upload my picture and begin to take more detailed pictures.

Will do! I have only taken one picture so far, but the car was featured in an article (http://bringatrailer.com/2010/12/15/clean-and-weird-1976-subaru-gf-sedan/). It pretty much hasn't changed since the article was written. It does need a little bit of work, but not much to make it a show quality car. Give me a few minutes to figure out how to post the picture.

Of the car as a whole or of just the fuse box/engine bay?

Hey all! I wanted to up date you all the progress of my repair. -Interior Light: No change, haven't gotten to it yet. -Fuel Filter: I finally noticed the arrow and correctly installed the fuel filter. -Fuses: Here is where things get interesting. The help that I got from my fellow old Subaru owners definitely set me in the right direction, though with some slight variation. So, my high and low beams, horn, dash lights, radio, wipers, and washer fluid sprayers now work. Unfortunately, my turn signals and hazard lights still don't work and I'm not sure if my reverse, brake, or license plate lights work or if my cigarette outlet and rear defroster works. Here are the specifics so far: Spot #1 is closest to the passanger compartment and as the numbers ascend the spots move away from the passanger compartment. #1) Headlights - 10 amp #2) Headlights - 10 amp #3)????? #4)????? #5) Ignition, Start, Fuel Pump - 15 amp #6) ????? #7) Radio, Washer Spray, Wipers and Heater - 25 amp #8) Light Switch - 25 amp

Thanks Psychotic Subathusiast! I was using an old Chilton repair book that was accurate for model years up to 1974, which I thought were similar enough, so I'm not surprised I ran into some issues. And I will be sure to check the fuse box ground as well. I'll also check the filter again. If I don't find an arrow on the filter its going back to NAPA. Lastly, how do I remove the dome/map light in the car? Is it simply a matter of unscrewing it? The last thing I want to do is break something in this car as I know some parts a rather scarce.

No worries! I appreciate you taking the time to talk to me!

Thank you so much! And when you say top to bottom, is #1 closest to the passanger compartment or farthest from the passanger compartment? And just to confirm: I'll need five 15 amp fuses and two 25 amp fuses?

Hello all! I've got a 1976 DL 4-Door Sedan with the 3-Speed Auto that is giving me some trouble. I just purchased the car, replaced the fuel filter only to find out that the cold seemed to have killed the battery. I just replaced the battery but can't seem to get the high beams, turn signals, radio, heat, and fan blowers to work. And, to be honest, I'm sure I'm forgetting something. I think it might have something to do with the fuses. The only issue with that is the metal fuse box top with the correct fuse layout is missing. Does anyone have one for sale or that they can post a picture of or tell me what fuses go where? I purchased brand new 10, 15, 20, 25, and 30 amp glass fuses in anticipation of needing some. Another concern I have is with the NAPA fuel filter I got. It isn't see through, but does have a "+" sign on one side. I'm not sure what this means, but is the "+" supposed to be pointed toward the passanger compartment or away from it? Lastly, according to the previous owner, the interior map light bulb is out. Does anyone know what type of bulb I would need? I really appreciate any help I can get with this. All of it is very new to me and my biggest concern is that I might mess something up.

Yes please! How much? And shoot me a message whenever you get the shipping price. Thanks!

Thanks guys! And Scooner I'm located in Cortlandt Manor, NY which is about 10 minutes from Peekskill, NY and 40 minutes outside New York City. Can you send me some pictures of the wheels?

Hello all! I've been searching far and wide for a spare wheel that will mount in the stock location inside the engine bay on my 1976 DL/GF. I haven't been able to find an exact replacement, but have found a 13x5 steel wheel from a Loyale. I was wondering if this would fit in the engine bay and can be used if I get a flat? I know that my DL/GF has 13 inch wheels and wears 155/80-13 tires, but I do not know the actually width of the rim. This car is very new to me, I've only had for about a week, but would like to begin the process of getting the car show ready. So, if anyone has that information or any tips that will be a huge help!

Hello All. I have a 1976 DL/GF 1600. I'm looking for: 1) Fuse Box Cover 2) Dash Clock 3) Leather Steering Wheel 4) Chrome Trim From "Landau Roof Option"- The interesting thing about my car is, for whatever reason, it looks like the dealer was going to put the Landau Roof on my car, then stopped after adding the chrome pieces by the rear window vent that wraps around to the trunk. Unfortunately, at some point in my cars nearly 40 year life the chrome trim on the driver's side has disappeared.

Also looking for a spare wheel.

Do you have a working clock?