Jump to content

bakedpotatoechips99

Members
  • Content count

    42
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

4 Neutral

About bakedpotatoechips99

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Kingston New York
  • Referral
    Google
  • Biography
    Subaru Owner, auto mechanic.
  • Vehicles
    1995 Legacy L AWD auto, 2003 Forester XS MT
  1. Hello, It may very well just be the plastic debris/dust/etc cover for the flywheel and torque converter, that got bent and fell into the flywheel torque converter housing/bell housing of the transmission and engine. I am not too familiar with the 2010 models. Technically, most likely the noise will go away over time, and you could forget about it, but a loose piece of plastic subjected to friction from a rotating flywheel and torque converter is quite possibly a hazard of sorts. So, I would put some effort into trying to locate and remove the loose plastic if possible, but I would not remove the transmission to do so. Taking a flashlight flexible tiny extending flashlight and a telescoping flexible tiny mirror might be of some assistance to get a visual on the piece of plastic in the bell housing. There are even flexible extending probing video cameras these days available for vehicle repair use. Because, worst case scenario, it catches fire from friction, possibly even igniting oil and or transmission fluid residue/coating on or around most drive trains past a few years old. Also, YOUR BEST BET is, if you can't get at the loose plastic from the top inspection window (where the offending plastic apparently came from), there might be a flywheel inspection/access plate on the bottom of the bell housing which is secured with usually a couple of small screws/bolts, sometimes needing the starter motor to be removed as well but probably not on a Subaru though. And occasionally, part of the exhaust needs to be removed to remove and or access the lower flywheel access/inspection plate, maybe say a pipe, and or catalytic converter needs to be unbolted because it's in the way. The removal of that might allow better inspection and or possibly removal of the plastic piece, or pieces by now. I doubt you would need to replace the transmission. However, you MIGHT want to CARRY A FIRE EXTINGUISHER in the vehicle until things are sorted out, just in case of the extremely slight possibility of the plastic igniting and spreading fire, especially since it is now summertime. I personally would not go crazy over this, but I also would not simply dismiss it either, in the least, I would carry a fire extinguisher in the vehicle for a while, even though that sounds nutty, in the summer, something like that could end up causing an under hood fire while stuck in traffic or something. But trying to peer in and locate the loose plastic piece, and then hopefully grabbing it with an ultra extended needle nose pliers or something of that sort could alleviate having to be concerned about what it could cause later would be optimal. And, you might get it to drop out from he bottom bell housing inspection plate if there is one on that vehicle. But you would need to jack up the front of the car to access that under the engine and trans bell housing.
  2. I had the same issue. I seem to recall I unplugged the ABS pump under the hood from the wiring harness. And the brakes worked fine without ABS functionality. I think there is at least one ABS fuse under the hood as well. Yes it might be a relay, or the whole pump. But who knows for sure. It might be some corrosion on electrical connections or inside of the old relay too. maybe the ABS unit is sticking internally, and or some air got into it's hydraulics. I ran for years with the unit disconnected. My car had too many miles and was too old to warrant repairing or replacing the ABS pump unit, or even to spend time diagnosing the ABS system.
  3. Had a '95 legacy auto trans with a code 740. That is a shift solenoid for the lockup torque converter for the overdrive.. The issue I had, was after changing the fluid and filter, a piece of crud or metal filing likely stuck the solenoid for a while. It eventually freed itself. However, those solenoids can go bad as well. Since it is for the overdrive lockup, even if it is bad, the car still should be fine, it just won't lockup it's torque converter in overdrive, and will burn a bit more fuel, but will still be in overdrive, causing no damage to the trans . If you are pulling a trailer regularly long distances on the highway, you might need that lockup, but otherwise I wouldn't worry too much about it, The misfire codes could be a number of things, and unless the rings and or valve guides are totally shot, should not be monumental to repair. Subaru's are prone to leaking valve cover gaskets and or spark plug tube seals, which can leak oil around the spark plugs and their wires, essentially shorting them intermittently. You need to pull the plug wires and look inside of the spark plug tubes with a flashlight and maybe a flexible mirror for one or two of them (spark plug tubes) to see if there is oil pooling in there. You might get an idea of that by simply looking at the plug boots for excess wet oil on them. However, sometimes this situation goes away when the engine gets hot enough to burn off and evaporate the oil and the misfire can go away for a while, only to return later. It all depends. Then, of course the standard things to check are the plug wire resistances with an ohm meter, or, simply replace the wires if you don't have one.The ignition coil can be checked for primary and secondary resistance. Finally the igniter, is a small electronic module ( black, and the size of a match book) that sits on the "dog bone" in the middle of the firewall, and has an electrical plug going to it, with 4-6 wires or so on it's harness plug. This amplifies the signals for the spark/ignition.That can deteriorate over years. Those about hundred and fifty, but used ones can be obtained on ebay for a song. Those igniters also have a metal heat sink on their bottom or mounting contact area, and are held down with 2 screws. You want to use some die electric grease under them, and sand off the mount area on the firewal/"dog bone" where it mounts to (if there is rust or crud on the firewall/"dog bone" when you remove the old igniter), Sanding down the mounting area to make way for a replacement igniter,before applying the die electric grease and mounting down the new (or newer/better used one) igniter. This enables it to remain relatively cool inside as it works to assist the ignition system. If you just remove the old one, and screw down another one, it will likely work, but can get hot and not last as long as if you use the die electric grease and make sure that you use some 100 or 150 grit sandpaper for the engine bay so the metal pad on the replacement igniter can dissipate it's heat to the firewall mounting area. Prior to purchasing any ignition parts, you can get a new set of plugs and simply connect them to the plug wires with all 4 plugs out of the engine, but the plug's metal bodies touching ground or metal on the engine some where (kind of wedge them into external areas where they are grounded), even the aluminum intake manifold, and with the ignition on, either have someone crank the engine, or use a screwdriver or remote starter or wire with 2 alligator clips to crank the starer while observing the spark at the plugs while the engine is cranked over (ignition on!). The spark at the plugs should be at least slightly blue in color. If it is faint and yellow, the spark is weak, and will misfire inside of the engine, or not even start in some cases. Lastly, a misfire can occur from oil getting into the combustion chamber/cylinder, from badly worn rings and or valve guides and or valve guide seals. You would be able to see this if you remove the old plugs, and spot a wet oily spark plug firing tip. A new ignition coil, new plugs, and a used igniter is what I just installed in the '95 legacy, as it would not even start prior to these new parts. It had been badly misfiring and stumbling. The valve cover gaskets and spark plug seals were not the problem on this one. It burns some oil, but is able to run smooth still. Spark plug heat range is also something to consider for an older engine. A "hotter" set of plugs can be installed if oil burning is excessive, and this will sometimes enable an older engine that burns oil to run smoothly regardless of worn rings and or valves and seals, which would cause a misfire for either standard or for "colder" plugs If it does not burn oil, you can install a "colder" set of spark plugs for the summer, to prevent pre ignition/pinging. Finally, if you replace the coil and or igniter, you have to make sure that even though you might plug them into the wiring harness in the engine bay, that the pins are/were not bent, or one or more wires/pins pushed back or otherwise not making contact, and you may want to use some electrical contact spray cleaner for any electrical connections like that prior to plugging them back in, to ensure that your new parts purchases, and labor do not go to waste from a faulty connection when plugging them into the engine wiring harness.
  4. Fuel pump growling under load or uphill? You might have differential, or universal joint noise. Maybe also the main drive shaft support bearing and bushing (a 150 dollar doozie of a part, a bit of a pain to replace also) under the car. You also might have busted or cracked transmission mounts. Maybe a bad rear axle or rear wheel bearing as well. It could just be the rear differential is low on gear oil from a slow leak, or that the oil in it has dried up and thickened causing sludge and noise. You would also want to check your transmission gear oil (if it is manual trans),automatic transmission fluid (if it an auto trans) differential oil (80w-90, 85w-90 or 90 weight), and rear differential oil, also the same as the previous weights. Cheap stuff first. All fluids checked, and topped off if needed, and or changed for fresh fluids and gear oils. Then look for cracked transmission mounts by using a flash light with the car SAFELY on jack stands or something sturdy, and visually checking the mounts, and, slightly prying or gently jacking up the transmission if you can't tell with the flashlight. Don't pry excessively or jack up more then an inch or less on the trans, or you could break good mounts trying to find out if they are bad or cracked. Other things might be more complicated, such as a differential bushing, bad differential side play etc. Good luck.
  5. bakedpotatoechips99

    1990 loyale check engine light

    Sorry but I can't fully help you with this issue. However, I will give you some of my thoughts on this issue. According to troublecodes.net, the test wires are to the LEFT of the steering column,and are green and black. if you still can't find them, you might look for a wiring diagram (you might be able to find that on the internet), or a Chilton or Haynes service manual, which would show color coding of the test wires to try to dispel the color coding concern you have about the check engine light connectors being different colors than what you found on troublecodes.net. Anyway, once you determine where to connect the wires for trouble code reading, you will simply bridge or connect the 2 connectors together, and turn the ignition switch without cranking the starter. You then will likely have to watch as the check engine light will flash the codes on the dashboard light. Usually 2 digits. So, for example, if the trouble code was 35, the check engine light would flash 3 times, then pause, and then flash 5 times. Each code is repeated 2, maybe three times so you won't miss it. And even if you do, it will continuously "loop through" the codes anyway, repeatign the whole process over and over until you either turn off the ignition, or disconnect the test wires. I can't fully remember, but, there is an initial code which is just to verify that the malfunction indicator system is functional, that is a low numeric code, and maybe only flashes once, I can't remember. But that code does not correspond to a part or problem, it is just to verify test status is okay or not to proceed. Also, while reading the trouble codes after the correct procedure is established and followed, long check engine light pulses (when reading the codes) which last 1.2 seconds indicate TENS numerically, and short pulses indite ones numerically. There is a pause of .3 seconds between digits. Good luck.
  6. bakedpotatoechips99

    New member from FL

    Hi LiteWar, Greetings LiteWar. Welcome LiteWar. SOunds like a nice car LiteWar. Please take care of yourself now LiteWar.
  7. bakedpotatoechips99

    Newbie needing help

    YOu want to have someone observe the clutch arm going into the side of the transmission, to see if, and how much it moves when someone IN the car presses the clutch down all of the way, with the engine off preferably. If it moves at least an inch or two, then you know the hydraulic portion of the clutch actuator is working. If not, then, you might try bleeding air from the system again (master and slave cylinders). Also, please check to see if the fittings are tight. You see I ain't too sure about what exactly your situation is yet. As far as the clutch fork goes,most importantly you want to first verify you are getting adequate movement from your hydraulics to actuate fully the clutch fork itself. THEN, if so (it moves more than an inch or two), and you still get grinding, you may have an issue with the throw out/release bearing which attaches to the clutch fork. Which you mostly can't see since it's inside of the transmission bell housing (between trans and engine). Your bleeding technique may have left some air in the lines. If you bleed the clutch using a tight hose from the bleeder valve into a clear plastic or glass jar filled partway with brake fluid, you will be able to see the trapped air bubbling up as it is bled/expelled. You see I, hey, recommend these things to you.
  8. An inline Fuel pressure gauge would allow you to get readings before replacing anything. But that costs more than a new fuel filter. You would want not just the gauge, but a "T fitting", some clamps, and some fuel line, to connect to various places under the hood mostly. I had to replace a fuel pump in my old '95 legacy a couple of years ago. The gauge really helped me figure it out. If it does not start, you can try some starting fluid spray from a can. But you have to be careful not to spray it on the Mass air flow sensor. If the car starts right up with starting fluid, and not otherwise, then you can kind of tell fuel is not really getting to the injectors or through them. But again, you must not spray starting fluid on the MAF sensor, and you only spray just a bit (read the can), as it is more volatile than gasoline. That is how I determined initially that I had a fuel delivery problem, and I think I checked the relay 1st. Then finally connected a pressure gauge, and, with zero fuel pressure, realize the pump needed to be replaced. Not to difficult, there's an upper fuel pump access panel with tiny Phillips head screws under the carpeting in the rear interior, So the gas tank does not need to be removed like some cars in the past. Bring a fire extinguisher if you can.
  9. I almost thought your username/handle was Dingo. Sorry for my confusion.
  10. Welcome Dinga111, Idle control solenoid. Good idea. I would imagine that would assist with proper idling. "Still idles a bit low". Hmmmm. Let me think now, Spark plugs, air filter. HEAD GASKETS. I had an issue with the head gaskets, an INTERMITTANT issue, causing idle problems at random times, culminating in troubles after it warmed up fully. had to change those head gaskets.( I used Cometic triple/multi layered steel heaf gaskets. The best, except for maybe JE Pistons brand. ) Whereby, sometimes the idle was fine. THEN other times not so much. Fluctuations. Sometimes high, sometimes low. I think Ted Nugent sang a song called Stranglehold "sometimes you gotta start high, sometimes you gottta start low, some people think they're gonna die some day, I got news you neva got to go........." .
  11. bakedpotatoechips99

    Greetings

    Welcome Earthdog1, Baja N model. I see.Oh, blown engine. What do got in there, nitrous or turbo? Oh, I'm sorry, you must mean it is a broken engine. I suggest ebay for an engine. You might even get one shipped directly from Japan. Or a local junk yard or online re-builder. Or even a local re-builder. I mean, if you want to re build it yourself, that may take quite a while, and, if you've never done that sort of thing before, something could easily go wrong. Swapping in another engine, is something you might be able to do, or have a shop do it, or get a mobile mechanic to come and help with that.
  12. It seems like screwbaru2 is giving you the right information as far as I can guess. At least he is right about the O2 sensors. For a temporary solution, at least until you get the other catalytic, it might be possible to drill, tap and mount a downstream or upstream O2 sensor, and get it to run at least acceptably. It likely still would not pass emissions testing, either because by law 2 catalytic converters are required, or, because the emissions would be above allowed limits. I can't say for sure. This MIGHT get it running well enough to use the car, at least until until you can install another converter, etc. . That header looks really nice, chromed and high quality. The rattle could be the baffle inside of the muffler came loose or broke. But who knows for sure.
  13. bakedpotatoechips99

    hello folks

    Hi there calmblin_gl10. Welcome to The Ultimate Subaru Message Board.
  14. bakedpotatoechips99

    I'm a new Subaru owner

    Welcome.
  15. I'm not sure 6 O'clock is the right position for adjustment. It may be correct. You want to make sure it is Top Dead Center/TDC firing position though, because ALL valves should be FULLY CLOSED (in the optimal adjustment position) in that scenario, and hence, READY TO BE CHECKED AND ADJUSTED ACCORDINGLY. There is a range of acceptable adjustment, so 1-3 thousands of difference should not be a huge issue. "Go, no Go", in other words, if you want them at 12 thousandths/.012 of an inch, if a .010 or .011 will not fit, but a .012 will, then you know you are at 12 thousandths of an inch. Your exhaust valve expand the most under operating conditions, and, hence, usually are adjusted a tiny bit looser than intake valves. Still, though, intakes cannot be too tight either because they will also expand with heat.
×