bakedpotatoechips99

Hello, It may very well just be the plastic debris/dust/etc cover for the flywheel and torque converter, that got bent and fell into the flywheel torque converter housing/bell housing of the transmission and engine. I am not too familiar with the 2010 models. Technically, most likely the noise will go away over time, and you could forget about it, but a loose piece of plastic subjected to friction from a rotating flywheel and torque converter is quite possibly a hazard of sorts. So, I would put some effort into trying to locate and remove the loose plastic if possible, but I would not remove the transmission to do so. Taking a flashlight flexible tiny extending flashlight and a telescoping flexible tiny mirror might be of some assistance to get a visual on the piece of plastic in the bell housing. There are even flexible extending probing video cameras these days available for vehicle repair use. Because, worst case scenario, it catches fire from friction, possibly even igniting oil and or transmission fluid residue/coating on or around most drive trains past a few years old. Also, YOUR BEST BET is, if you can't get at the loose plastic from the top inspection window (where the offending plastic apparently came from), there might be a flywheel inspection/access plate on the bottom of the bell housing which is secured with usually a couple of small screws/bolts, sometimes needing the starter motor to be removed as well but probably not on a Subaru though. And occasionally, part of the exhaust needs to be removed to remove and or access the lower flywheel access/inspection plate, maybe say a pipe, and or catalytic converter needs to be unbolted because it's in the way. The removal of that might allow better inspection and or possibly removal of the plastic piece, or pieces by now. I doubt you would need to replace the transmission. However, you MIGHT want to CARRY A FIRE EXTINGUISHER in the vehicle until things are sorted out, just in case of the extremely slight possibility of the plastic igniting and spreading fire, especially since it is now summertime. I personally would not go crazy over this, but I also would not simply dismiss it either, in the least, I would carry a fire extinguisher in the vehicle for a while, even though that sounds nutty, in the summer, something like that could end up causing an under hood fire while stuck in traffic or something. But trying to peer in and locate the loose plastic piece, and then hopefully grabbing it with an ultra extended needle nose pliers or something of that sort could alleviate having to be concerned about what it could cause later would be optimal. And, you might get it to drop out from he bottom bell housing inspection plate if there is one on that vehicle. But you would need to jack up the front of the car to access that under the engine and trans bell housing.

I had the same issue. I seem to recall I unplugged the ABS pump under the hood from the wiring harness. And the brakes worked fine without ABS functionality. I think there is at least one ABS fuse under the hood as well. Yes it might be a relay, or the whole pump. But who knows for sure. It might be some corrosion on electrical connections or inside of the old relay too. maybe the ABS unit is sticking internally, and or some air got into it's hydraulics. I ran for years with the unit disconnected. My car had too many miles and was too old to warrant repairing or replacing the ABS pump unit, or even to spend time diagnosing the ABS system.

Had a '95 legacy auto trans with a code 740. That is a shift solenoid for the lockup torque converter for the overdrive.. The issue I had, was after changing the fluid and filter, a piece of crud or metal filing likely stuck the solenoid for a while. It eventually freed itself. However, those solenoids can go bad as well. Since it is for the overdrive lockup, even if it is bad, the car still should be fine, it just won't lockup it's torque converter in overdrive, and will burn a bit more fuel, but will still be in overdrive, causing no damage to the trans . If you are pulling a trailer regularly long distances on the highway, you might need that lockup, but otherwise I wouldn't worry too much about it, The misfire codes could be a number of things, and unless the rings and or valve guides are totally shot, should not be monumental to repair. Subaru's are prone to leaking valve cover gaskets and or spark plug tube seals, which can leak oil around the spark plugs and their wires, essentially shorting them intermittently. You need to pull the plug wires and look inside of the spark plug tubes with a flashlight and maybe a flexible mirror for one or two of them (spark plug tubes) to see if there is oil pooling in there. You might get an idea of that by simply looking at the plug boots for excess wet oil on them. However, sometimes this situation goes away when the engine gets hot enough to burn off and evaporate the oil and the misfire can go away for a while, only to return later. It all depends. Then, of course the standard things to check are the plug wire resistances with an ohm meter, or, simply replace the wires if you don't have one.The ignition coil can be checked for primary and secondary resistance. Finally the igniter, is a small electronic module ( black, and the size of a match book) that sits on the "dog bone" in the middle of the firewall, and has an electrical plug going to it, with 4-6 wires or so on it's harness plug. This amplifies the signals for the spark/ignition.That can deteriorate over years. Those about hundred and fifty, but used ones can be obtained on ebay for a song. Those igniters also have a metal heat sink on their bottom or mounting contact area, and are held down with 2 screws. You want to use some die electric grease under them, and sand off the mount area on the firewal/"dog bone" where it mounts to (if there is rust or crud on the firewall/"dog bone" when you remove the old igniter), Sanding down the mounting area to make way for a replacement igniter,before applying the die electric grease and mounting down the new (or newer/better used one) igniter. This enables it to remain relatively cool inside as it works to assist the ignition system. If you just remove the old one, and screw down another one, it will likely work, but can get hot and not last as long as if you use the die electric grease and make sure that you use some 100 or 150 grit sandpaper for the engine bay so the metal pad on the replacement igniter can dissipate it's heat to the firewall mounting area. Prior to purchasing any ignition parts, you can get a new set of plugs and simply connect them to the plug wires with all 4 plugs out of the engine, but the plug's metal bodies touching ground or metal on the engine some where (kind of wedge them into external areas where they are grounded), even the aluminum intake manifold, and with the ignition on, either have someone crank the engine, or use a screwdriver or remote starter or wire with 2 alligator clips to crank the starer while observing the spark at the plugs while the engine is cranked over (ignition on!). The spark at the plugs should be at least slightly blue in color. If it is faint and yellow, the spark is weak, and will misfire inside of the engine, or not even start in some cases. Lastly, a misfire can occur from oil getting into the combustion chamber/cylinder, from badly worn rings and or valve guides and or valve guide seals. You would be able to see this if you remove the old plugs, and spot a wet oily spark plug firing tip. A new ignition coil, new plugs, and a used igniter is what I just installed in the '95 legacy, as it would not even start prior to these new parts. It had been badly misfiring and stumbling. The valve cover gaskets and spark plug seals were not the problem on this one. It burns some oil, but is able to run smooth still. Spark plug heat range is also something to consider for an older engine. A "hotter" set of plugs can be installed if oil burning is excessive, and this will sometimes enable an older engine that burns oil to run smoothly regardless of worn rings and or valves and seals, which would cause a misfire for either standard or for "colder" plugs If it does not burn oil, you can install a "colder" set of spark plugs for the summer, to prevent pre ignition/pinging. Finally, if you replace the coil and or igniter, you have to make sure that even though you might plug them into the wiring harness in the engine bay, that the pins are/were not bent, or one or more wires/pins pushed back or otherwise not making contact, and you may want to use some electrical contact spray cleaner for any electrical connections like that prior to plugging them back in, to ensure that your new parts purchases, and labor do not go to waste from a faulty connection when plugging them into the engine wiring harness.

Fuel pump growling under load or uphill? You might have differential, or universal joint noise. Maybe also the main drive shaft support bearing and bushing (a 150 dollar doozie of a part, a bit of a pain to replace also) under the car. You also might have busted or cracked transmission mounts. Maybe a bad rear axle or rear wheel bearing as well. It could just be the rear differential is low on gear oil from a slow leak, or that the oil in it has dried up and thickened causing sludge and noise. You would also want to check your transmission gear oil (if it is manual trans),automatic transmission fluid (if it an auto trans) differential oil (80w-90, 85w-90 or 90 weight), and rear differential oil, also the same as the previous weights. Cheap stuff first. All fluids checked, and topped off if needed, and or changed for fresh fluids and gear oils. Then look for cracked transmission mounts by using a flash light with the car SAFELY on jack stands or something sturdy, and visually checking the mounts, and, slightly prying or gently jacking up the transmission if you can't tell with the flashlight. Don't pry excessively or jack up more then an inch or less on the trans, or you could break good mounts trying to find out if they are bad or cracked. Other things might be more complicated, such as a differential bushing, bad differential side play etc. Good luck.

Sorry but I can't fully help you with this issue. However, I will give you some of my thoughts on this issue. According to troublecodes.net, the test wires are to the LEFT of the steering column,and are green and black. if you still can't find them, you might look for a wiring diagram (you might be able to find that on the internet), or a Chilton or Haynes service manual, which would show color coding of the test wires to try to dispel the color coding concern you have about the check engine light connectors being different colors than what you found on troublecodes.net. Anyway, once you determine where to connect the wires for trouble code reading, you will simply bridge or connect the 2 connectors together, and turn the ignition switch without cranking the starter. You then will likely have to watch as the check engine light will flash the codes on the dashboard light. Usually 2 digits. So, for example, if the trouble code was 35, the check engine light would flash 3 times, then pause, and then flash 5 times. Each code is repeated 2, maybe three times so you won't miss it. And even if you do, it will continuously "loop through" the codes anyway, repeatign the whole process over and over until you either turn off the ignition, or disconnect the test wires. I can't fully remember, but, there is an initial code which is just to verify that the malfunction indicator system is functional, that is a low numeric code, and maybe only flashes once, I can't remember. But that code does not correspond to a part or problem, it is just to verify test status is okay or not to proceed. Also, while reading the trouble codes after the correct procedure is established and followed, long check engine light pulses (when reading the codes) which last 1.2 seconds indicate TENS numerically, and short pulses indite ones numerically. There is a pause of .3 seconds between digits. Good luck.

Hi LiteWar, Greetings LiteWar. Welcome LiteWar. SOunds like a nice car LiteWar. Please take care of yourself now LiteWar.

YOu want to have someone observe the clutch arm going into the side of the transmission, to see if, and how much it moves when someone IN the car presses the clutch down all of the way, with the engine off preferably. If it moves at least an inch or two, then you know the hydraulic portion of the clutch actuator is working. If not, then, you might try bleeding air from the system again (master and slave cylinders). Also, please check to see if the fittings are tight. You see I ain't too sure about what exactly your situation is yet. As far as the clutch fork goes,most importantly you want to first verify you are getting adequate movement from your hydraulics to actuate fully the clutch fork itself. THEN, if so (it moves more than an inch or two), and you still get grinding, you may have an issue with the throw out/release bearing which attaches to the clutch fork. Which you mostly can't see since it's inside of the transmission bell housing (between trans and engine). Your bleeding technique may have left some air in the lines. If you bleed the clutch using a tight hose from the bleeder valve into a clear plastic or glass jar filled partway with brake fluid, you will be able to see the trapped air bubbling up as it is bled/expelled. You see I, hey, recommend these things to you.

An inline Fuel pressure gauge would allow you to get readings before replacing anything. But that costs more than a new fuel filter. You would want not just the gauge, but a "T fitting", some clamps, and some fuel line, to connect to various places under the hood mostly. I had to replace a fuel pump in my old '95 legacy a couple of years ago. The gauge really helped me figure it out. If it does not start, you can try some starting fluid spray from a can. But you have to be careful not to spray it on the Mass air flow sensor. If the car starts right up with starting fluid, and not otherwise, then you can kind of tell fuel is not really getting to the injectors or through them. But again, you must not spray starting fluid on the MAF sensor, and you only spray just a bit (read the can), as it is more volatile than gasoline. That is how I determined initially that I had a fuel delivery problem, and I think I checked the relay 1st. Then finally connected a pressure gauge, and, with zero fuel pressure, realize the pump needed to be replaced. Not to difficult, there's an upper fuel pump access panel with tiny Phillips head screws under the carpeting in the rear interior, So the gas tank does not need to be removed like some cars in the past. Bring a fire extinguisher if you can.

I almost thought your username/handle was Dingo. Sorry for my confusion.

Welcome Dinga111, Idle control solenoid. Good idea. I would imagine that would assist with proper idling. "Still idles a bit low". Hmmmm. Let me think now, Spark plugs, air filter. HEAD GASKETS. I had an issue with the head gaskets, an INTERMITTANT issue, causing idle problems at random times, culminating in troubles after it warmed up fully. had to change those head gaskets.( I used Cometic triple/multi layered steel heaf gaskets. The best, except for maybe JE Pistons brand. ) Whereby, sometimes the idle was fine. THEN other times not so much. Fluctuations. Sometimes high, sometimes low. I think Ted Nugent sang a song called Stranglehold "sometimes you gotta start high, sometimes you gottta start low, some people think they're gonna die some day, I got news you neva got to go........." .

Welcome Earthdog1, Baja N model. I see.Oh, blown engine. What do got in there, nitrous or turbo? Oh, I'm sorry, you must mean it is a broken engine. I suggest ebay for an engine. You might even get one shipped directly from Japan. Or a local junk yard or online re-builder. Or even a local re-builder. I mean, if you want to re build it yourself, that may take quite a while, and, if you've never done that sort of thing before, something could easily go wrong. Swapping in another engine, is something you might be able to do, or have a shop do it, or get a mobile mechanic to come and help with that.

It seems like screwbaru2 is giving you the right information as far as I can guess. At least he is right about the O2 sensors. For a temporary solution, at least until you get the other catalytic, it might be possible to drill, tap and mount a downstream or upstream O2 sensor, and get it to run at least acceptably. It likely still would not pass emissions testing, either because by law 2 catalytic converters are required, or, because the emissions would be above allowed limits. I can't say for sure. This MIGHT get it running well enough to use the car, at least until until you can install another converter, etc. . That header looks really nice, chromed and high quality. The rattle could be the baffle inside of the muffler came loose or broke. But who knows for sure.

Hi there calmblin_gl10. Welcome to The Ultimate Subaru Message Board.

Welcome.

I'm not sure 6 O'clock is the right position for adjustment. It may be correct. You want to make sure it is Top Dead Center/TDC firing position though, because ALL valves should be FULLY CLOSED (in the optimal adjustment position) in that scenario, and hence, READY TO BE CHECKED AND ADJUSTED ACCORDINGLY. There is a range of acceptable adjustment, so 1-3 thousands of difference should not be a huge issue. "Go, no Go", in other words, if you want them at 12 thousandths/.012 of an inch, if a .010 or .011 will not fit, but a .012 will, then you know you are at 12 thousandths of an inch. Your exhaust valve expand the most under operating conditions, and, hence, usually are adjusted a tiny bit looser than intake valves. Still, though, intakes cannot be too tight either because they will also expand with heat.

Hey good luck with that motor. Maybe you can build a go cart frame, or mount it in an old Volkswagen.All the best.

I can't pinpoint or give you absolute answers here. But, you most likely will need to replace the bushings, and or the entire lateral link arms with new ones. If you replace the entire arms, that is often much easier. Because replacing just the bushings requires pressing the old ones out, and pressing the new ones in. And they are pressed in very tightly, and really, to do that without spending hours and hours, and still maybe only having partial success (you may get one bushing that goes in crooked, and gets jammed, and ends up being almost impossible to replace, or you need to have an extra on hand due to damaging one putting it in). That is a real time consuming job, even with a press set, like Harbor Freight brand say. And, you can make your own, using various sockets, and a huge C clamp. But just getting replacement links is my advice. You could try spraying some silicone on the old ones, which might temporarily make the noise lessen or go away, only to return later. If you only need inner ones, you might try replacing just bushings. I replaced one in a '95 legacy, and I ruined my C clamp, and spent hours monkeying with it, since I had no hydraulic press.

Conversion eh? Too much trouble for me. I prefer to "run whatcha brung". Still, I gotta admire folks swapping the ECU's and all electronics of one car to the other. Good luck with it all. Gas Monkey Garage seems to do some nice swaps. But hey, I am just a piddling do it yourself'r, FAR from being on the same level as Gas Monkey Garage. I do get a kick out of some of their swaps though. They dropped a fuel injected 2015 Charger motor and trans into an old 70's Charger if I remember correctly. You might consider a Subaru ultralight aircraft. Just kidding sort of. Hey, again, best of luck to you in your endeavors.

I agree with porcupine73. However, I will add my 2 cents of opinion. If you cannot actually see exactly where the leak originates from, then, you might want to get a $3.50 can of engine de-greaser/cleaner spray. And spray the power steering pump as well as the lines and anything nearby (except the alternator, which you might want to cover with a plastic bag to keep degreaser OUT of it) it there is fluid all over it and the power steering lines, this will enable you to then let it soak five minutes, and rinse the cleaner and old fluid off with a quart or two of warm or hot tap water, which will make finding the actual point of the leak much easier than if everything has dirt and fluid all over it obscuring a clear view of the actual problem area. And then add fluid if the reservoir almost dry, though maybe not fill it fully, as you are simply looking for the leak, and do not want excess fluid that may leak if you need to remove a line to repair it. Maybe start the engine and observe the pump area for a leak,with everything clean, and try to see if it is a fluid line, or the pump itself. You may need to move the steering wheel left and right to build pressure to see the leak, and an assistant would be best as you look for the leak.The power steering pump has 2 different fluid lines going into and out of it, as well as a gasket on the bottom of the reservoir. These rubber lines can dry up and shrink, causing a leak, or they can also crack. You may be able to slightly tighten the metal (pressure) power steering line that screws into the pump, if that is where the leak originates. or if it is the other line (return), it is simply held on with a basic clamp that can be loosened with a pliers. Then, the small length (less than a foot) of power steering line can be replaced with a new section which may only cost 5-6 dollars a foot. If the pump and lines are not the culprit, you might have a leaking inner front axle seal at the front differential. The seal itself is ten dollars or less. But actually replacing it takes hours of work, and takes more skill, and jacking up the car etc., to replace that front differential seal. That however, is just in back of the engine.But on both the right and left sides, and usually only one will leak at a time. To find a leak it is sometimes much easier to de grease and clean a grimy dusty oily covered area first, and then to pinpoint the actual leak. Sometimes the leak can be spotted without first de-greasing though.

I can't say for sure. But I can give a few suggestions as to where the clunk sound might be emanating from. It could be a broken transmission mount. This is something that would look fine, but would need to be either pried on slightly to lift up the transmission to see if the mount is cracked in the rubber/cushioning part. You may also have a bad driveshaft center bearing or universal joint. Could be some suspension bushing worn or cracked as well. Those can be hard to find. They also will need the car jacked up, and pried on or wiggled back and forth to find. The exhaust heat shields can also make some noise rattling. Maybe the upper spring mounts for the struts are rusted through. Or the strut is shot. Ball joints also may be a problem. Can't say much more, though, could be a lot of things. You likely just have to spend some time looking at, shaking, wiggling, and lightly prying on stuff with it jacked up, to look for obvious things wrong. Finding nothing like that, then you would need to take into consideration things that might not seem like culprits for the noise. Maybe a gas tank filler neck or related parts loose or dislodged, an inner fender loose, or even a brake line loose and shifting around.

Hi there bud. Hello. Take good care of yourself bud.

Hi Francisco, I can't say what the trouble is. But my first suggestions are to check the entire length of not only the clutch pedal and all of it's linkage/arms, but also the cable under the hood to see if anything is rubbing/scraping or interfering with wiring/wires, or any other thing, like a vacuum hose or something contacting the moving clutch cable, that in turn would pull or rub on wires. You may also want to (this may turn out to be very important) add a length of battery cable from the engine or transmission block to a good clean non painted ground on the frame. As, you may have insufficient grounding going on from the engine/trans to the frame.

I just replaced head gaskets on a EJ251 SOHC engine in a '03 Forester. I used Cometic MLS .051 gaskets. Really high quality. I also gently block sanded the heads and block with 220,280,320,400, and finally 600 grit sandpaper to remove the old gasket material as Justin Stobb at awd auto in Seattle suggests. I did not resurface the heads, only because I was at a loss for time, as winter was coming fast and I was doing the repairs out in the street. Otherwise I would have had them resurfaced. And, to be honest, I knew that Cometic gaskets are of such high quality, that any slight warp of the head would be significantly negated by the Cometic MLS. JE pistons also makes an excellent multi layer steel head gasket. The Subaru turbo head gaskets are also multi layer steel I think. But the standard Subaru OEM are crappy single layer, which do not have the reliability or longevity of multi layer steel gaskets. Also, do not overlook the crossover coolant pipe on top of the engine under the intake manifold, get new o rings and black silicone to re seal it before re installing the intake manifold. One more thing, you can lock the flywheel, by removing the plastic inspection cover to expose the flywheel teeth, with a large flathead screwdriver or small pry bar or similar tool in between one flywheel tooth and the engine block to prevent movement while loosening the front crank pulley/harmonic balancer, after removal of the intake manifold, instead of using a special pulley locking tool which is either too expensive or too hard to get or make.

There is an inspection plate called a BAFFLE PLATE in the rear bell housing on some EJ25 2.5 motors, which is plastic, and cracks with age and heat and leaks oil. Or the gasket for it goes bad. Later baffle plates were aluminum, but could still leak from a bad gasket. To repair this, you must pull either the motor or the transmission. After that, it is a cheap and easy repair though.

Welcome Gibs. Sounds like you got a big upgrade for winter driving if you all you had was a Mustang GT prior to getting the '07 Imprezza. The rear brakes are extremely subject to rust damage from my experience. Both in the rotors, and more importantly in the calipers, which I have found can get frozen or stuck due to rust in only one or two years after replacement with rebuilt units. The aluminum calipers from the STI or XT Subaru's apparently are longer lasting in terms of rust damage according to my understanding. But, that would be a modification for you, and likely not worth the trouble right way, at least not until you decide you will have the car for a while, and wish to improve upon it's reliability. First, you would want to check if the brake pads have separated from their backing pads, or are worn unevenly. Then if rotors are warped, or if the caliper bushings are shot, or the caliper bolts are loose, or, if you have a bent brake backing plate causing a misalignment of the caliper with the rotor on one or more wheel brakes, which may also cause pulsing, and be harder to diagnose or spot. You also should seriously consider bleeding/flushing the brake lines completely to remove old moisture laden fluid and any air that may have infiltrated into the brake lines and calipers. But if everything is extremely rusted and stuck, you might just want to either rebuild those calipers, or purchase rebuilt ones. Also, the metal brake lines could be very rusty in the rear possibly, and may need replacement as well. If you are lucky, you merely have bad brake pads in the rear. But, in the Northeast, salt generally wreaks havoc on Subaru calipers etc.