jmp6889928

Split them and start an aluminum scrap pile. Find old wheels and other aluminum and when you get a good amount, it's worth it to take it down for scrap.

When you get the pan off, you'll see more of what I mean.

Oil goes through the engine as it's picked up by the oil pickup tube before it gets to the oil filter.

Swaybar needs to be recentered on the vehicle. Perrin includes special spacers for their sway bar end links that are designed to take up the space but not interfere with the heim joint movement. I would suggest a call to them and see if you can purchase the set of spacers. I have them on my car and they work exceptionally well. Good luck.

As I said, bought this new in October of 2004 and have kept it ever since. Done a LOT of work to it in the suspension department, engine department, and even some in the body department. Here's a few photos to look at: A couple of shots with different wheels, a couple of shots on the...HEYYYY....My grandson photobombed this damn thing...oh well...LOL.....couple of shots on the track, and a couple of other shots...

AMS cam tools are what I have that holds them in place. They look like these: http://www.rallysportdirect.com/AMS-A0383-4B-1A-Cam-Gear-Removal-Tool I just did cam seals and crank seal and complete timing belt kit on my 1998 2.5 DOHC and used these and they worked great. They work better on the AVCS engines because the gears are a bit easier to grab, but they do work fine on the older engines as well. If you are working on a later model EJ engine and you have cam bolts that are socket head, you also really need to have this: http://ultimatetoolco.com/koken10mm and use it with an impact wrench to remove cam gear bolts. I just did a set about 45 minutes ago and pop, off they come, and when it's time to put them back on, hold with the AMS cam tool and tighten up to torque and you're good to go. Not cheap tools, but definitely worth it to have them in your box. If you can't afford them, perhaps you can have a couple of guys that you know that are Subaru enthusiasts pool together and purchase a set. I know of several groups that have done that and it makes it much better for everyone. If you don't have a group that you hang with, I can loan you mine IF you promise to get them back to me ASAP as I'm doing a rebuild on an EJ257 right now and will need them in the next week or so. For putting on the timing belt, again, if you have the cam bolts that are socket head, you need the Company 23 tool and you can buy it here: http://www.company23.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=61_60&product_id=62 It puts the timing belt on correctly first time every time and makes life a LOT easier...LOL. Let me know what you have and I can box them up in a USPS fits/ships box and you'll have them on Wednesday. Good luck.

One last thing I forgot to mention-in reading your original post, you state that you believe the replacement turbo will be off of a WRX. Make sure it's a flange style turbo and not a nipple style. The nipple style compressor housing is the WRX/STi style for the center mounted throttle body intake manifold while the flange style compressor housing (which is what you have) is for the TMIC that mounts directly to the turbo compressor housing on one end and the throttle body on the other end with a TB to TMIC hose. You CANNOT remove the housing from one and just put it on the other. There are quite a lot of differences and it must be clocked correctly and sealed. I can take a look at what you have if you wish and let you know the best course of action. Send me photos of the turbos to jmp6889928@gmail.com and I'll get back to you via email with recommendations. Legacy GT's used the plastic intake manifold with the throttle body at the DS end pointed at an angle towards the brake booster and it's easiest to find a VF40, VF46, VF52, or even a Td04H flanged housing and just do a replace. If I can help you on this, don't hesitate to ask. I done...ohh...say...300 replacements or so...LOL. I have a couple of tricks that you'll find useful. Good luck.

Good information and I thank you a bunch. The AT Temp light does flash 16 times rapidly now when the car starts and then goes out. I was not aware of the grounding pin availability of a built in code reader so I'll certainly look it up. The biggest issue here, at least for this time of year, is the cold. I don't have much heat in my garage and I also have a TON of other work to do in testing some turbos so I may just resign myself to taking it to a shop because of the time factor. The car is in very nice shape-not a speck of rust on it anywhere, even underneath and only small door dings and dents, which are defninitely worth repairing. It's the Forest Green over Silver but it's a Limited so it has a gold stripe above the Silver, which I've not seen in any pick and pull yards. I had to put on a tailgate (found the correct color and mint condition with a rear wiper that works perfectly for $65.00) and many of the interior pieces were in pretty dim shape (found them ALL for $55.00), I paid $255 for the timing kit and new thermostat, and it has that infamous Subaru piston slap when it starts, but it runs perfectly after about 2 seconds, so for an around town car until I find another engine, it will be fine. All new brake rotors and pads and all of the calipers are in fine shape and $110.00 later and it stops on a dime and spits out nickels. All in all, I have not much money in this car so if I have to pay someone to diagnose the transmission, it most likely will be worth it. Once I know if it's a solenoid or sensor, then I can change it, but the time of doing all the diagnostics is what I don't have. If it's a cashed transmission, then I'll begin the search and find one and just change it out on a weekend and be good to go (hopefully...LOL... ) Thanks again much for the reply. John

The EGT is used by the computer but if you put a 2.2K ohm resistor (available in a 5 pack from Radio Shack for about $3.95) between the two leads, it will make the ECM happy that everything is running as efficiently as possible. It tricks the ECM into thinking it's directly in the middle of best operating temperature.

Run constantly when engine is running.

Correct on lifting the engine to remove the pan. Take the nuts off the motor mounts and take one end off on upper torsion mount (dogbone), and then use a floor jack with a small piece of plywood between the jack pad and oil pan and lift the engine up out of the cradle. Put a small chunk of 2x4 under each mount on top of subframe. Should have easy access to all pan bolts and plenty of room to remove the pan. EGT was on 05 for sure but i don't know for sure on your model year. If so, it would be located in the up pipe. Do a resistor mod and throw the damn EGT away.

Thanks a bunch for the info on the 4EAT. I might just be resigned to take it to a <sigh> transmission shop rather than messing with it myself. They can scan it and see if the TCM is actually doing all of the stuff it's supposed to and from there, then go to components. Thanks again.

Hi again everyone, Checked the fan relays and all is good. I remove the #1 relay and the fans quit, so I know that the relay is passing current. I switched out several other relays to make sure and all works. Temperature sensor on the cross pipe? My guess is that it would be the multiple wire sensor that feeds the ECM? Thanks guys.

OK guys, As I said in my introduction, I am NOT a transmission guy, so hopefully some of you have run into this problem before and can help direct me to a solution. I picked up the above mentioned vehicle about 2 weeks ago knowing it had transmission shifting into 4th gear issues. I bought it for an extremely low price because it needed cam seals so badly that one of them had actually fallen out. After doing all of the engine work and installing a complete timing set and cam/crank seals, I have the engine running great and I drove it and the kid didn't lie to me...LOL. It won't shift into 4th gear. SO...when I picked it up, it had CEL with about 5 codes set (like a moron, I erased them...kill me know and get it over with...LOL) and one of the codes mentioned "Torque Converter Circuit open" which would make me believe that there is a solenoid that's failed. Based on what I found in research, there is a Duty Solenoid B (Lock-Up) which I would have a tendency to think could be the culprit, but again, I know not much about automatic transmissions (I can build MEAN C4 and C6 Fords, or excellent Powerglides we used to run in our dragsters...LOL) that use a bunch of electric solenoids and sensors. HELP ! ! Thanks guys.

Here's the threads on www.legacygt.com to remove the banjo bolt filters with excellent photographs as well as descriptions. I'm not sure if your particular model has them or not, but best to look and you need to make sure and flush the OCV lines anyway. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/remove-all-banjo-filters-222758.html?t=222758&highlight=Remove+banjo+bolt+filters Also look at post number 2 from Hammerdown as he has several links there to alternate ways to remove the DS banjo filter. I suggest removing the rear banjo bolt at the turbo (where Covertrrussian has circled in red) and checking to see if it has a filter in it or not. If not, then perhaps your particular vehicle does not have them. Good luck,