Muffinland

Has anyone tried pressingonward's linkage improvement? Is it worth it?

Do you still have the handle+cable for the hood release?

If the Nardi is too much, you could always give this a try: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/331183683007?ul_noapp=true

I've had this car since July 2015. It's always been rich and it's always done subtle backfires, but never like it is now. The problem developed about a month ago.

This is originally what I thought was happening, but all of the timing marks were where they should be. All the teeth on the belt are also in fine condition. Is there another way that the valves could've been damaged?

You believe it's the actual cylinder head itself?

I have a few questions regarding my 2002 Impreza 2.5RS. It's having some starting issues. Sometimes it will start immediately, some times it will hesitate on starting, and other times it will just crank without actually starting. Every time it does not start, it sounds like a rifle has been shot. Here's whats been done recently: I've changed wires, both cylinder head cover gaskets (including the 4 spark plug boot gaskets), the timing has been checked (no belt/pump needed), and I've changed the crankshaft sensor. Earlier the car started like normal, but when shut off and I tried to start it again, it misfired and didn't start. Today, I went to the shop that the car is sitting in now, and we checked the compression for the pistons. Here's what we got: Cylinder 1: 60 PSI Cylinder 2: 135 PSI Cylinder 3: 30 PSI Cylinder 4: 120 PSI My mechanic seems to think that it is the camshaft, and that makes sense, since it is just the 2 passenger cylinders. However, he is not sure, and I want this done as quickly as possible. So my main questions are: Has anyone experienced this before? Are there any ideas that someone has? Is any other information needed? Thank you for taking your time reading this and for any feedback.

The cat was not replaced, only the piping, resonator, and muffler behind it.

Symptoms include when I lift off, it rattles a little bit and will give off little pops (sound like really quiet backfires). Symptoms for when I'm attempting full throttle at operating temp in 4th gear are a missing sound. It doesn't even sound like its igniting. It will give the normal sound of a WOT and combustion and then all of the noise stops and it takes me down until I lift off the throttle. Cap and rotor look very new, points are barely worn. The spark plugs look as new as the cap, rotor, and wires. I do know that some spark plugs can come bad, or if they're dropped then they are as good as done. Today I also learned that the car probably had either a bad fuel pressure regulator or it was converted from mechanical to electric. There is a very shiny bit that is zip tied to some tubes in the engine. As for fuel I was told to try 89 octane and I'm sure that that is what the GL is running on now. Looked it up and the article said that after long amounts of years without rebuilds, engines get carbon buildup and may need higher octane. How do I know if I have hydro lifters or solid? I'll have the compression test done by Monday, hopefully. Thanks very much for all of the suggestions. This helps a ton.

Sorry, I just never heard of a car with 2 fuel filters. Everything I've worked on has had one. How common is the dual filter setup?

My instructor for my school said that the fuel filter was in the top right of the engine bay. It's also see-thru and looks fairly new. I may still give it a try. Thanks for the answer.

Sorry if this sounds silly, but are Hitachi's hard to clean? I've only ever messed with lawnmowers. I'll also need new gaskets, correct? Thanks for reply

Unfortinetly Im not the original owner. so far I've gotten a new exhaust from cat converter to the muffler and thats all regarding the engine. I have slightly touched the carbs fuel mixture, but I only went about half a turn, and that improved my performance, it didnt hinder it. Thanks for the answer.

Hey I've been having a few issues with my performance on the highway since I bought my 83 GL Wagon 4WD. The issue is that the engine is very unhappy in 3rd and 4th gear. I was totally convinced that it was the winter weather of Michigan holding the engine back at higher speeds, but today we hit 70 degrees F and the engine still drove rough. The engine will almost always go up to redline in 1st and 2nd gear while I'm hopping on the highway, but once I hit 60 mph today, the engine refused to go over. However, it was only a few days ago where after work it was about 50 degrees and on my way south, the speed was incredible compared to today. It hit the end of the speedometer. Yes, this is a teeny bit over the limit, but I'm just trying to find an average here. The crazy thing is, is that on my way back north the engine was struggling in the 60-65 range. Why is my engine so inconsistent? Is this just the nature of the beast? Or is there a junk part somewhere? Thanks for reading and any answers I receive. If I'm not specific enough, just ask and I'll try to give more details.

Hello, I was wondering if anyone knew the specs for a wheel stud. Recently finishing a brake job, I was trying to put the wheel back on, but found that one stud has its first four or five threads flattened. I was hoping that it isn't anything out of the ordinary and its a die I would have around the house.

The only issue is that the person before me put on vented rotors. And they didn't cause any damage that I see. How do you think that they would've fit vented rotors on a solid rotor caliper?

The older ones were vented as well. I would've thought that if they differed. Did the GL come from factory with solid discs?

Hey guys, I've been attempting a brake job on my wagon for about a week now and I've run into a wall. The new front brake pads are very very thick compared to the ones that I pulled off of the car (duh) and even when the piston is screwed as far back as my father or I can push it, the pads will NOT fit over the also new discs. I think I'm about an 1/8-1/4 inch off. I figured some people on here have done brake jobs before on their GL's and I was hoping for some advice on how to open up the calipers a little bit more. This is my first time attempting a large job on it, so if I'm not specific enough, just ask. Thanks for reading and any answers or suggestions I receive.

All four of the tires are the same. I'll check the u-joints on Monday when I have a lift. Is there any way to check the rear diff fluid without draining it completely, or do I just have to tough it out? And by "along for the ride" do you mean it's a dead axle, like the driveshaft and diff are stationary? Also, thanks, glad to see a quick response on something even Google couldn't find.

Hello! I was wondering what a whirring sound was in my 1983 GL wagon. It only happens when I shift into my 4WD. It usually happens when I hit about 20mph. Earlier today I was in my auto class, trying to diagnose the sound and vibration. I found my drain plug and eventually read on another forum that the trans and t-case use the same fluid. The fluid was a honey color, my instructor said "This is so clean, I'd put it on my pancakes,". The drivetrain is actually not very used, I only have about 87,000 mi on the car. I know it couldn't be a bearing because it only happens in 4WD and I'm hoping its not too serious because the bottom of the wagon is rusting away and any major part installment would be a waste. Any help or knowledge corrections would be awesome, thanks.